Martínez, M.L.; Chávez, V.; Lithgow, D., and Silva, R., 2019. Integrating biophysical components in coastal engineering practices. In: Silva, R.; Martínez, M.L.; Chávez, V., and Lithgow, D. (eds.), Integrating Biophysical Components in Coastal Engineering Practices. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 92, pp. 1–5. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

For coastal engineering practices to be considered green, biophysical fluxes need to be understood and taken into consideration from the onset of any project. Achieving this will be a great challenge and will need the interaction between different disciplines. This special issue aims at bridging the gaps between various groups that study coasts from contrasting perspectives, namely, coastal engineers, oceanographers, hydrologists, geologists, biologists, and ecologists. The topics addressed cover a wide array of ideas and approaches that include: ecosystem and coastal functioning; ecosystem-based protection and long-term engineering; and the impact of human activities. The set of case studies were performed in different countries in Latin America: Mexico, Cuba, Colombia and Brazil. With this special issue, we hope to move towards a multidisciplinary approach to sustainable coastal management and the implementation of ecosystem-based coastal protection.

Martínez, M.L.; Landgrave, R.; Silva, R., and Hesp, P., 2019. Shoreline dynamics and coastal dune stabilization in response to changes in infrastructure and climate. In: Silva, R.; Martínez, M.L.; Chávez, V., and Lithgow, D. (eds.), Integrating Biophysical Components in Coastal Engineering Practices. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 92, pp. 6–12. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The goal of this study was to understand shoreline dynamics and coastal dune stabilization in response to changes in infrastructure (urbanization and the construction of breakwaters for shoreline protection) and climate in Playa Chachalacas, located in the central region of the Gulf of Mexico. Aerial images from different years were analysed to examine: (a) shoreline dynamics and changes at the river mouth, located down-drift from the dunefield; (b) stabilization of the mobile dune; and (c) urbanization along the shoreline. The data show that the cover of grasses and shrubs increased rapidly on the dunefields. In some areas, there was intense erosion along the shoreline and accretion in others at significant rates. The breakwaters promoted accretion but exacerbated erosion down-drift, with notable changes in the inlet. Finally, urbanization has occurred at a fast rate, and mostly parallel to the shoreline. The results indicate that different factors affect sediment dynamics: (a) the breakwaters solved the erosion problem locally but generated intense erosion down-drift; (b) warm and wet climate promoted vegetation growth and sediment stabilization; and (c) urbanization along the coast resulted in ecosystem loss and increased risks to flooding. Indeed, management and development plans for coastal environments need to consider the dynamic nature of the coastline.

Rosado-Torres, A.A.; Mariño-Tapia, I., and Acevedo-Ramírez, C., 2019. Decreased roughness and macroalgae dominance in a coral reef environment with strong influence of submarine groundwater discharges. In: Silva, R.; Martínez, M.L.; Chávez, V., and Lithgow, D. (eds.), Integrating Biophysical Components in Coastal Engineering Practices. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 92, pp. 13–21. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The coral reefs of the Caribbean are heavily deteriorated, being found in low abundance and diversity. Their mortality is associated with the loss of architectural complexity and the flattening of the reef. Under this scenario, an ecological imbalance that commonly occurs is the reduction of coral cover and the dominance of macroalgae which is a clear indication of a phase shift. In the present study the links between reef roughness, benthic cover and groundwater influence are investigated with the aid of in situ oceanographic instrumentation. High resolution bathymetric profiles are used to assess roughness, video transects to characterise morphofunctional groups (stony corals, macroalgae, gorgonians, sponges, seagrasses and substratum), salinity and water quality measurements to establish continental water influence. The methodology allows to make the studies at the scale of the whole reef lagoon (several kilometres) and not only for small reef parcels. Results show clear links between low roughness, high macroalgae cover and groundwater influence in terms of diluted sea water and high nutrients.

Rodríguez-Gómez, C.F.; Aké-Castillo, J.A., and Vázquez, G., 2019. Short-term responses of the bloom-forming dinoflagellate Peridinium quadridentatum in tropical coastal waters: Environmental variables and phytoplankton community. In: Silva, R.; Martínez, M.L.; Chávez, V., and Lithgow, D. (eds.), Integrating Biophysical Components in Coastal Engineering Practices. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 92, pp. 22–32. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Peridinium quadridentatum (F. Stein) Hansen is a common dinoflagellate in tropical and subtropical areas worldwide that produces harmful algal blooms (HABs), mostly during the rainy season. This study aimed at identifying the short-term variations in the density of P. quadridentatum and the formation of blooms in relation to the environmental variability of physicochemical and phytoplankton parameters. Sampling and in-situ data collection were conducted at the surface of the water column during daytime and nycthemeral cycles in the rainy season at a fixed station located to the southwest of the Gulf of Mexico during 2017 and 2018. During P. quadridentatum blooms (>1x10⁶ cells L^-1), significantly higher temperatures (>31°C) and dissolved oxygen (DO) concentrations (6.5 mg L^-1), as well as significantly lower ammonia, nitrate and phosphate levels (1.4, 0.9 and 0.01 μM, respectively) were recorded compared to normal conditions. The hourly analysis revealed that, the cell density of P. quadridentatum increases during the morning to reach peak levels at 16: 00 h in sunny days, conferring a reddish-brown color to water, followed by an abrupt drop in density in the nighttime-early morning, to start a new cycle the following day. Other HAB-forming species also decreased in density when P. quadridentatum HABs occur. High temperatures during rainy season favor the formation of HABs of P. quadridentatum. Although in the rainy season occurs high concentration of nutrients, the HABs of P. quadridentatum appear when there is a decrease in that concentration. Peridinium quadridentatum seems to be a less effective competitor compared to diatoms that form blooms in high nutrient concentrations. Long-term monitoring of nutrient concentrations in river basins and areas close the wastewater treatment plants is suggested to be aware of development of HABs.

García Calva, L.; Golubov, J.; Mandujano, M.C.; Lara-Domínguez, L., and López-Portillo, J., 2019. Assessing Google Earth Pro images for detailed conservation diagnostics of mangrove communities. In: Silva, R.; Martínez, M.L.; Chávez, V., and Lithgow, D. (eds.), Integrating Biophysical Components in Coastal Engineering Practices. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 92, pp. 33–43. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Conservation of mangrove ecosystems is one of the major global environmental challenges of this century. To propose viable strategies for its conservation, it is necessary to produce an adequate cartography that enables, among other things, accurate differentiation among plant communities. Google Earth Pro (GEP) images were evaluated as a tool to classify different mangrove communities and were compared to RapidEye satellite (RE) images. The accuracy of the following classifications were compared: (1) one based on the normalized difference vegetation index (NDVI) of a RE image, (2) one based on a mosaic of 141 GEP images, both using object-based image analysis (OBIA) and (3) one based on the visual interpretation (VI) of the same GEP mosaic. It was possible to distinguish ten mangrove communities in 2436 ha, six of them dominated or codominated by the white mangrove Laguncularia racemosa, suggesting that this estuary has a strong riverine influence and low salinities. There was a 97% accuracy on the VI of GEP mosaic, significantly higher than the OBIA classifications done on RE (88%) or GEP (80%) images. These results indicate that GEP, an open access resource, provides similar accuracy when mapping mangrove communities compared to commercial images such as RE, and that the accuracy is greater when using VI. GEP images are very important tools to generate accurate and detailed large scale maps of mangrove communities and represent a great opportunity to move along in the challenge of identification, mapping and monitoring these valuable ecosystems.

Neri-Flores, I.; Moreno-Casasola, P.; Peralta-Peláez, L.A., and Monroy, R., 2019. Groundwater and river flooding: The importance of wetlands in coastal zones. In: Silva, R.; Martínez, M.L.; Chávez, V., and Lithgow, D. (eds.), Integrating Biophysical Components in Coastal Engineering Practices. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 92, pp. 44–54. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The groundwater-surface water relationship in coastal floodplains is key to wetland management. Coastal floodplains are prone to river overflow and groundwater upwelling, so climate change may increase the vulnerability of people and infrastructure. This study was carried out on the coastal plain of Veracruz, Mexico where, in 2010, Hurricane Karl produced a river flood and the coastal city of Veracruz-Boca del Río suffered many losses. The objective was to understand river-groundwater flooding and how seasonality in local groundwater flow is related to flood type, site topography and the wetland vegetation in this coastal zone. To this end, 31 piezometers and time series flow data from two hydrometric stations were monitored monthly, and remote images were used to classify land use and vegetation. The frequency and extent of an extreme river flood (caused by Hurricane Karl in 2010) and groundwater flood were documented. The results show that the 2010 river flood can be classified as an extreme flood with a return period of 50-100 years, inundating 60.5% of the rural area, 39.5% of the natural vegetation and roads, and 4.8% of the city. Groundwater floods occur every year in the low-lying areas of the floodplain, which correspond to discharge zones covered by wetlands. Different flood types require different solutions; i.e. the identification of areas that can serve as river buffers to divert water during extreme events, and allowing wetlands to function as natural defenses to reduce flood impact. These solutions can reduce floods, as can proper city planning. Management plans should include both engineering solutions and should make use of the ecological functions of wetlands and floodplains.

Miret-Villaseñor, D.; Enriquez, C.; Mariño-Tapia, I.; Silva, R., and Ruiz, G., 2019. Interactions between nearshore and shelf dynamics under hurricane conditions: Implications for exposed and reef protected beaches. In: Silva, R.; Martínez, M.L.; Chavez, V., and Lithgow, D. (eds.), Integrating Biophysical Components in Coastal Engineering Practices. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 92, pp. 55–67. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The Caribbean Sea has 2.5 hurricanes per year on average, some of which have caused major damage to beaches in the past 3 decades. Wilma was a major hurricane that hit the Mexican Caribbean in 2005, generating strong erosion at Cancun, an exposed beach, and accretion at Puerto Morelos, a reef-protected beach located 28 km to the south. The present work analyses this contrasting response by studying the hydrodynamic processes at these two beaches, and the interaction between surf-zone and shelf-scale currents. The coupled wave-flow Delft3D model is used to generate the hydrodynamic conditions at three contrasting scales: basin, regional and nearshore; the latter being high resolution 3D models. Results show a wide surf zone with well-developed offshore directed currents (undertows) at the exposed beach, which intersect an intense southward wind driven current at the shelf. At the reef-protected beach, breaking waves generate strong cross-reef currents into the reef lagoon, where seas are much calmer. These combinations of processes can promote the export of sand from the exposed beach, transport southward and entry onto the reef protected coast. Numerical experiments are carried out to study further the effects of a variation in hurricane track and forward speed on the synchronicity of the processes. Results show that minor differences in trajectory and forward speed can produce very different outcomes. Slight changes in the trajectory to the north or south (~ 75 km), for a hurricane with the same characteristics as Wilma, generate alongshore currents close to the beach, which would limit the offshore and southward sand transport. Hurricane forward speed plays a role in the persistence of processes and the resulting hydrodynamics, which would have important morphological implications.

Rodríguez Cueto, Y. and Silva, R., 2019. Identification of areas exposed to storm surge flooding: Topographic factors and ecosystem changes. In: Silva, R.; Martínez, M.L.; Chávez, V., and Lithgow, D. (eds.), Integrating Biophysical Components in Coastal Engineering Practices. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 92, pp. 68–74. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The analysis of ecosystems and topographic factors (relief, slope, and orientation) in the southern-central part of Cuba facilitated the evaluation of the coastal exposure to storm surge. This work used the natural habitat exposure rank and the Manning coefficient of each ecosystem as a means of evaluating the protective role of the ecosystems in coastal storm surge flooding. The study area is a low elevation coastal zone (LECZ), with relief measuring between 0 and 1.5 m in 24% of the area. It is mostly covered by natural vegetation and mangrove, with gentle slopes, oriented toward the south and southwest. From 1975 to 2014, decreases in the Manning coefficient and the natural habitat exposure ranking reduced the exposure to storm surge flooding. As a result of this analysis, it is possible to differentiate two zones in the study area according to their distinct spatial combinations of topographic factors and ecosystem changes.

Canul, R.; Mendoza, E., and Silva, R., 2019. Beach erosion diagnosis and green intervention alternatives in Chenkán beach, Campeche, Mexico. In: Silva, R.; Martínez, M.L.; Chávez, V., and Lithgow, D. (eds.), Integrating Biophysical Components in Coastal Engineering Practices. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 92, pp. 75–84. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The development of infrastructure in coastal zones is rapidly degrading coastal environments and has increased vulnerability to meteorological phenomena. In this paper, Chenkán beach (Southeastern Mexico) is used as a case study to show how anthropogenic changes have brought abrupt damage in this RAMSAR site. The construction of a federal highway and of badly planned coastal protection structures have unbalanced natural sedimentary cycles resulting in chronic erosion and a reduction in the number of sea turtles nesting here. This paper shows the characterization of the erosion process at Chenkán, estimating coastline evolution from satellite images. The annual average rate of erosion found is of -3.70 m, while the net shore transport annual average rate found is of -10.55 m. Finally, three intervention alternatives are proposed and tested numerically: (a) “do nothing”, (b) removal of structures and (c) beach nourishment. It was found that a soft intervention combined with de-engineering would be the best option to recover the beach stability and strengthen the ecosystem connectivity and services.

Kuc Castilla, A.; Mendoza, E.; Posada, G., and Silva, R., 2019. Design of hybrid ecosystem based strategies for the control of erosion at Sabancuy beach, Campeche, Mexico. In: Silva, R.; Martínez, M.L.; Chávez, V., and Lithgow, D. (eds.), Integrating Biophysical Components in Coastal Engineering Practices. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 92, pp. 85–91. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The analysis and understanding of coastline variability and coastal erosion-accretion trends are important in orienting coastal management procedures. This study focuses on the detection and evaluation of coastline change, as well as assessing the degree of anthropogenic modification of coastal ecosystems at Sabancuy beach, in Campeche, Mexico. The coastline changes along the beach are studied by means of satellite image analyses and from this, the areas with most erosion and the rates of beach erosion and accretion are computed. The degree of anthropization is determined from land use maps and changes in vegetation cover. The results of this case study show that the construction of a groin has produced an area of beach growth, 70,933 m² updrift, but an area loss, 17,001 m² downdrift, with an average annual rate change of -0.17 m. It was found that 85% of the study area is still in a conserved state, 14% has a low level of alteration and only 1% can be considered highly altered (urbanized areas). This work also suggests alternative solutions for minimizing the beach erosion, using hybrid and/or soft solutions.

Hadadpour, S.; Paul, M., and Oumeraci, H., 2019. Numerical investigation of wave attenuation by rigid vegetation based on a porous media approach. In: Silva, R.; Martínez, M.L.; Chávez, V., and Lithgow, D. (eds.), Integrating Biophysical Components in Coastal Engineering Practices. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 92, pp. 92–100. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Coastal areas are very complex and sensitive regions, which are extremely important in terms of economic, social and environmental values. Providing protection against coastal erosion is thus a significant issue and considerable research has been dedicated to the development of shore protection solutions. The importance of coastal vegetation and its role in wave attenuation and coastal protection in this context is still not fully understood. This study focuses on wave attenuation by coastal vegetation. For this purpose, numerical analysis is used to determine whether the vegetation field can be considered as a porous medium and whether a porous media based approach can be applied to describe the flow in a vegetation field. The computational fluid dynamic (CFD) solver “PorousWaveFoam” in the frame of OpenFOAM, which solves the Volume Averaged Navier–Stokes (VRANS) equations, is used for the simulation of flow in porous media. The model is calibrated and a new equivalent porosity (n_eq) based on leaf area index (LAI) is developed and implemented in “PorousWaveFoam”. The model is validated by various laboratory experiments of wave propagation through rigid vegetation, showing a good agreement between the measured and calculated wave height dissipation. It is concluded that the presented porous media approach performs well in simulating wave attenuation by a rigid vegetation field. Moreover, by using the validated model, it is confirmed that for a given water depth, wave attenuation depends on the plant characteristics (plant density, height and length of vegetation field). A higher density and longer vegetation field leads to higher attenuation rates. Wave attenuation decreases if the submergence ratio increases.

Ramírez-Vargas, D.L.; Mendoza, E.; Lithgow, D., and Silva, R., 2019. A quantitative methodology for evaluating coastal squeeze based on a fuzzy logic approach: Case study of Campeche, Mexico. In: Silva, R.; Martínez, M.L.; Chávez, V., and Lithgow, D. (eds.), Integrating Biophysical Components in Coastal Engineering Practices. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 92, pp. 101–111. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

In order to improve coastal management and decision-making, it is necessary to quantify the coastal squeeze. This study proposes a methodology for quantitative coastal squeeze assessment in the Gulf of Mexico, based on a fuzzy logic approach. Three study sites in Campeche, Mexico, were selected, each with contrasting economic activities, populations and coastal infrastructure: Playa Bonita, Sabancuy and Nuevo Campechito. For the coastline evolution, the intensity and frequency of storms, land use change and coastal hardening were taken as the main drivers of coastal squeeze. For each study site maps of coastal squeeze distribution and intensity are presented. The results suggest that the entire coast of Campeche is undergoing a process of coastal squeeze that threatens the highly diverse coastal ecosystems there and endangers infrastructure and human lives.

Bolívar, M.; Rivillas-Ospina, G.; Fuentes, W.; Guzmán, A.; Otero, L.; Ruiz, G.; Silva, R.; Mendoza, E.; Maza, M.; García, L., and Berrío, Y., 2019. Anthropic impact assessment on coastal ecosystems in the municipality of Puerto Colombia, NE Colombia. In: Silva, R.; Martínez, M.L.; Chávez, V., and Lithgow, D. (eds.), Integrating Biophysical Components in Coastal Engineering Practices. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 92, pp. 112–120. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Human activity, mainly associated with the construction of coastal infrastructure, has caused ecological degradation to the coastal zone at Puerto Colombia, Colombia. Severe erosion attacked the ancient sandy spit that protected the municipality from wave energy to an extent that it completely disappeared. The groins constructed thereafter, with the aim of protecting the coast, have exacerbated the sediment imbalance, affecting the Balboa coastal wetland. At present, the coastline around Puerto Colombia is highly vulnerable; the remaining ecosystems are under severe pressure, and the population is at risk. Restoring the marine and terrestrial connectivity is key to improving this situation.

Criado-Sudau, F.F.; Nemes, D.D., and Gallo, M.N., 2019. Rip currents dynamic of a swell dominated microtidal beach. In: Silva, R.; Martínez, M.L.; Chávez, V., and Lithgow, D. (eds.), Integrating Biophysical Components in Coastal Engineering Practices. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 92, pp. 121–127. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Rip currents are seaward directed flows responsible for drownings and lifeguard rescues efforts all over the world. However, these currents have not yet received the proper attention from society and decision makers. A significant dataset was gathered during 25 field surveys at Reserva Beach, which is a microtidal intermediate beach in Rio de Janeiro city (Brazil). The data established a correlation among rip currents (magnitude and direction), tides (range and phase), and wave parameters (height, period, and angle of incidence). The most intense rip currents were typically observed during large wave height and shore-normal incidence. These were the two parameters that most influenced the intensity of the currents. Even though the area is characterized by a microtidal regime, tidal modulation was observed. The Reserva beach could be divided into three areas, regarding the frequency and intensity of rip currents. Two lateral areas were classified as “hazardous areas”, and a central region was classified as a “safe area”.

Rivera, J.; Chávez, V.; Silva, R., and Mendoza, E., 2019. Modelling the effects of the artificial opening of an inlet: Salinity distribution in a coastal lagoon. In: Silva, R.; Martínez, M.L.; Chávez, V., and Lithgow, D. (eds.), Integrating Biophysical Components in Coastal Engineering Practices. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 92, pp. 128–135. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The perennial coastal lagoon of La Mancha, in the state of Veracruz, Mexico, is a site of ecological and biological importance. In recent years, local fishermen have been opening the inlet that connects the lagoon to the sea, every year. As the consequences of this have not been completely investigated, this paper uses numerical results in order to analyse changes in salinity distribution. The results indicate that opening the inlet does not cause higher salinity, although when the inlet is open for longer periods, the water stays in the lagoon longer. The findings of this work could be useful to decision makers wishing to initiate an ecological based management plan for the lagoon.

Cruz, C.J.; Mendoza, E.; Silva, R., and Chávez, V., 2019. Assessing degrees of anthropization on the coast of Mexico from ecosystem conservation and population growth data. In: Silva, R.; Martínez, M.L.; Chávez, V., and Lithgow, D. (eds.), Integrating Biophysical Components in Coastal Engineering Practices. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 92, pp. 136-144. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

This paper presents the application of a methodology in which the degree of anthropization is evaluated and related to the local environmental, morphological and demographic variables. The main goal is to achieve an integrated diagnosis of the current conditions of the coastal zone. The degree of anthropization was estimated using five variables: land use, anthropization on river banks, presence industry, presence and type of ports and presence of artificial structures. It was proposed to perform an anthropization assessment on coastal compartments, identified from satellite imagery. As a result, for each unit of analysis the degree of anthropization was found and classified as High, Moderate, Low or None. Then, the ecological variable was evaluated as the presence or absence of coastal ecosystems. The morphological variable was analysed according to the historical coastline displacement rates, and the demographic variable was determined from the population growth rates of the coastal communities within the compartments. The combination of these data allows an evaluation of the loss of the natural state of the coast. A case study on the Mexican coast was also carried out. The methodology can be applied at local and global scales, being accurate, repeatable and easily updated.

Coastal lagoons worldwide are very dynamic complexes where both ocean and land events are important drivers; any modifications in either of these will have an impact in the coastal waterbody. Coastal lagoons often present problems due to human induced alterations to their hydrosedimentary flows. In this study, a diagnosis was made of the sedimentation problems in the Chantuto-Panzacola coastal lagoon complex. A physical diagnosis was made using hydrodynamics and physical characteristics, followed by computational simulations. Then an ecological diagnosis was performed, using satellite imagery, databases and field data. This was followed by a socio-economic diagnosis and an evaluation of the ecosystem services the lagoon system provides. A severe sedimentation problem was found following the diagnosis and using the Revised Universal Soil-Loss Equation. It was established that a relationship exists between the sedimentation of the coastal lagoon complex and erosion in the upper watershed. Three options were proposed: No action, dredging and reforestation. A brief cost/ benefit analysis was made for each alternative and the reforestation alternative was seen to be the most feasible and environmentally sensitive. The benefits of reforestation will not only be reaped within the lagoon complex, but also in the high watershed, where there will be fewer landslides and lower vulnerability to erosion.

Martins, K.A.; Pereira, P.S.; Esteves, L.S., and Williams, J., 2019. The role of coral reefs in coastal protection: Analysis of beach morphology. In: Silva, R.; Martínez, M.L.; Chávez, V., and Lithgow, D. (eds.), Integrating Biophysical Components in Coastal Engineering Practices. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 92, pp. 157–164. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

This paper evaluates the effect of a fringing reef on the morphodynamic behaviour of adjacent beaches in terms of profile stability and cross-shore sediment exchange. Variations in subaerial beach morphology along 39 cross-shore profiles at Pontal do Cupe beach (Northeastern Brazil) were analysed, using modelled wave data and monthly beach topography acquired from November 2014 to September 2016. Pontal do Cupe has a reef to the south but is exposed to waves in the north, making this an ideal location to assess the sheltering effect of the reef. Beach volume and beach width data were used to compare the reef-fronted profiles with those of the exposed adjacent beach. Seven groups of profiles were identified by applying Principal Component Analys is to the topography dataset. A simple numerical model was used to quantify the role of the reef in dissipating wave energy, showing a reduction of approximately 50% in incoming wave energy to the shore. The reef-fronted beach is significantly more stable than the exposed beach. Total beach volume is similar for both the exposed and the reef-fronted beach. The results of this survey can be used as a proxy for the ecosystem service of coastal protection provided by reefs.