Short, A D, 2016. The Coastal Studies Unit and development of the Australian beach models. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; McCarroll, R.J.; Kennedy, D.M., and Bruce, E. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 1–7. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The Australian coast provides an ideal laboratory in which to undertake beach research on a continental scale. The 30 000 km of open coast surrounds an entire continent that ranges from tropical to temperate latitudes (9–43°S); with tides ranging from <0.5 to 12 m; average breaker wave height from <0.5 m to ∼3 m; beach sediment from fine to medium sand, half of which is carbonate; and many of the ∼12 000 beach systems are embayed. Commencing in the mid-1970s this laboratory was utilized by members of the Coastal Studies Unit (CSU) leading to the development of beach models that encompass the full range of beach types and states that incorporate every Australian beach and most global beaches. This paper will review the development of these models, based initially on beach research on the micro-tidal, wave-dominated southeast coast; then expanding into both the higher wave energy environments of southern Australia and the higher tide range environments of northern Australia; culminating with an assessment of every beach system around the coast. The end result was the wave-dominated, tide-modified and tide-dominated beach models.

Hesp, Patrick A. and Smyth, T.A.G., 2016. Surfzone-Beach-Dune interactions: Review; and flow and sediment transport across the intertidal beach and backshore. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp.8–12. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The original wave-beach-dune model (Hesp, 1982) stated that in the medium to long term, modal dissipative beaches display maximum onshore wave driven sediment transport, maximum aeolian transport off beaches, the largest foredune heights and volumes, and the largest Holocene dunefields. Modal reflective beaches display the opposite, while modal intermediate beaches display a trend in these from relatively high to relatively low sediment transport, foredune volumes, and Holocene barrier volumes with a trend from dissipative to reflective. New Computational Fluid Dynamic (CFD) modelling of flow and calculation of sediment transport over three modal beach types presented here shows that the original conceptual ideas and field data regarding aeolian sediment transport are correct. Dissipative beaches show the greatest long term potential for sediment delivery to the backshore whilst reflective beaches display the least, with a trend from relatively high to low in the intermediate beach state range.

Araújo, M.A.V.C.; Pestana, R.; Matias, M.; Roque, D.; Trigo-Teixeira, A., and Heleno, S., 2016. Using simplified bathymetry and SAR imagery in the validation of a hydraulic model for the Tagus River floodplain. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 13 - 17. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

This work presents several approaches in the validation of the hydrodynamic model Tuflow on the simulation of flood extents and water levels, based on satellite SAR imagery. A methodology that uses a simplified bathymetry in the river main course is employed, which proves to be reliable and accurate for high-flow events. This was made possible as the digital terrain model was acquired in a dry period, accounting for large dry areas in the river bed, avoiding in this way the need of expensive river bathymetry surveys. Also, two methods are applied to the SAR imagery to extract the flood boundaries: visual interpretation followed by manual delimitation and an object-based algorithm approach. The hydraulic model is tested on a reach of the Tagus River, Portugal, where the largest flood inundation areas occur, using a historical flood event to verify its robustness and reliability. The accuracy of model prediction is done through comparisons of water levels at a hydrometric station and the determination of commission and omission errors of flood extent, between the reference SAR image and the predicted inundation. It was concluded that the methodology followed in this work is well suited for the hydraulic model validation.

Costa, M. S.; Rolnic, M., P.D., Prestes, Y.O., Rosário, R.P., and Borba, T. A.C., 2016. Runoff and Sediment Transport of Portel-Melgaço Water System in an Amazonian Estuarine System. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 18 - 22.CoconutCreek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The Pará River, located in northern Brazil, receives hydrological and sediment contributions from a complex network of basins, such as the Amazon, Portel/Melgaço, and Tocantins river basins. Portel/Melgaço basin, a fluvial-estuarine system situated between the Amazon and Tocantins river basins, is still poorly known. Therefore, the objective of this study is to identify whether there is any hydrological and sediment contribution from Portel/Melgaço river basin to the Pará River. For that purpose, two campaigns were carried out: 1) June, 2013 (transitional season) and 2) March 2014 (wet season). Samplings were carried out over a tidal cycle (13 h) and consisted of a bathymetric surveys; tide measurements; cross sections of streamflows (Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler); and vertical turbidity profiles (Optical Backscatter Sensor) with water sampling (surface and bottom for Suspended Particulate Matter) at three points of the cross section. Our main conclusion is that the inflow from Pará and Amazon Rivers to Portel/Melgaço river basin is higher than the outflow and appears to be highest in the dry season. Thus, the Amazon and Pará Rivers are the main source of suspended sediments to the system, and this characterizes Portel/Melgaço river basin as a retention basin.

Hanes, D.M., 2016. Acoustic attenuation due to bi-modal size distributions of suspended sediment. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 23 - 27. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Acoustic backscatter is a technique commonly used to remotely measure the concentration profile of suspended sediment. The technique generally involves an inversion, because the backscattered sound intensity depends upon the range dependent concentration and size distribution of the sound-scattering particles. This work examines the attenuation of sound due to particles, and in particular evaluates the relative contributions of viscous attenuation verses scattering attenuation as a function of the size of the particles. It is found that under some conditions viscous attenuation is dominated by smaller sized sediment and scattering attenuation is dominated by larger size sediment, but this result is not true in general, and depends upon the particular particle size distribution.

Nikaido, R.; Aoki, S.; Tamura, H., and Jinbo, M., 2016. Simulation of tsunami runup in the Tone River using generalized coordinate system and influence of river mouth bar on tsunami water level. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 28 - 32. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

This study simulated the tsunami runup in the Tone River using generalized coordinate system and discussed influence of river mouth bar on tsunami water level. This simulation focused on the 2011 off the Pacific Coast of Tohoku Earthquake Tsunami. Numerical simulation of the 2011 Tsunami runup in the Tone River and comparison of the results with the field data showed that the model using generalized coordinate system gave more accurate results than the model using the Cartesian coordinate system. This may be because the configuration of the curved river was precisely represented by the generalized coordinate system. Comparison of the computed results between the three cases, no removal, half removal and all removal of the river mouth bar, showed that the existence of the river mouth bar decreased water level and reduced inundation depth in the Tone River estuary. Therefore, the river mouth bar has tsunami reduction effects of tsunami disaster in the river.

Al-Nasrawi, A.K.M.; Jones, B.G., and Hamylton, S. M., 2016. GIS-based modelling of vulnerability of coastal wetland ecosystems to environmental changes: Comerong Island, southeastern Australia. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 33–37. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Sustainable management of coastal zones has become a complicated issue. The majority of the human population lives along the coast, where their activities, together with a range of environmental changes, have altered the natural ecosystem processes and caused changes in coastal wetlands. To ensure sustainable use of coastal resources, a comprehensive set of modelling tools can help managers to make decisions. This study uses Comerong Island (southeastern NSW, Australia) as a case study to demonstrate the importance of modelling modifications to environmental change. Several data-based modelling approaches are employed to explore how human activities have altered this estuarine island setting over the last sixty years (1949 – 2014). Multi-temporal changes in land cover, shorelines and sediment delivery are estimated from remote sensing data, GIS analysis, and laboratory tests on water and sediment samples (grain size, X-ray diffraction and loss on ignition and water analysis). Results show there are significant changes to the areal extents and elevation of mangroves, saltmarshes and shorelines in the wetlands on Comerong Island over the time period of analysis, including northern accretion (0.4 km²), eastern, middle and southern erosion (0.7 km²) of the island. The implementation of modelling using GIS tools, water and sediment samples to monitor ecosystem processes, such as sediment transport and erosion/deposition, will allow resource managers to make more informed decisions by evaluating the potential consequences of the existing situation.

Barcellos, R.L., Flores-Montes, M.J., Alves, T.M.F. and Camargo, P.B. 2016. Modern sedimentary processes and seasonal variatios of organic matter in a urban tropical estuary, Jaboatão River (PE) Brazil. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 38–42. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The aim of this research is to evaluate the environmental conditions in the Jaboatao River estuarine system (8°14′S/34°55′W), by studying sedimentary organic matter, which may provide information about anthropogenic influence in this tropical mesotidal estuary. The catchment area is 442 km² with a population estimated at 500,000 inhabitants, and is characterized as an urban coastal plain estuarine system. Thirty surface sediment samples were collected in November-2010 (dry season) and May-2011 (rainy season). Results indicated that the adjacent sediments from continental shelf are sandy, moderately sorted and bioclastic (74.8�CO₃), differing from estuarine sediments, which although sandy (silty-sand) are lithoclastic (17.4�CO₃) and poorly sorted. The predominance of sand observed in both seasons is due to the small length of the river (75km) and to the low supply of mud sediments, since its drainage basin is located mostly on sandy coastal plain. Carbon and nitrogen contents indicates a sensitive seasonal variation with large ranges, varying from 0.03–8.51% and from 0.00–0.54%, respectively, with higher contents prevailing in the inner portions of the estuary and gradually decreasing towards the shelf. The organic matter origin, according to the C/N ratios and δ¹³C values reflected the occurrence of marine organic matter in shelf samples (C/N<7.0/δ¹³C>-20.0‰PDB). However, the estuary terrigenous organic matter proportion increases upward (C/N>15.0). The δ¹³C values are typical of C₄ higher plants (−27.0‰PDB) and domestic sewage mix (−26.7‰PDB), ranging from −28.0 to −25.9‰PDB and indicating evidences of urban pollution in Jaboatão estuarine sediments.

Borba, T.A.C., and Rollnic, M., 2016. Runoff quantification on Amazonian Estuary based on hydrodynamic model. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 43–47. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The Amazonian Estuary encompasses a large number of water bodies and four of the 20 largest rivers of the world. It is composed of two conected branches: the Amazon River Estuary and Para River Estuary. This research aims to quantify the net runoff through these branches during wet and dry season based on 2D numerical model. D-Flow Flexible Mesh was used to simulate the hydrodynamics of Amazonian Estuary. The domain encompasses rivers and channels of Amazonian Estuary and floodplain area. The domain covers ≈700 km along the coastline and 145 km offshore. It reaches 716 km upstream through the Amazon River and 430 km through Para/Tocantins River. Curvilinear meshes combined with triangles and 1D channels networks were used during the mesh definition. The net discharge was calculated for one tidal cycle. Five cross-sections were defined to quantify the estuary runoff: four on the Amazon River Estuary and one Para River Estuary. The lateral cross-sections on Amazon River Estuary present net runoff of magnitude of almost 10⁷ m³ for wet season and 10⁶ m³ for dry season, both in downstream direction. The central cross-sections on Amazon River Estuary present runoff of magnitude of 10⁴ and 10⁵ m³ for wet season, both in upstream direction. The cross-section on Para River Estuary presents runoff of magnitude of 10⁶ m³. The Pará River Estuary presents magnitude near to that presented by Amazon River Estuary, making it an important channel of matter transport from continent to ocean.

Costa, A.K.R.; Pereira, L.C.C.; Costa, S.F.S.; Leite, N.R; Flores-Montes, M.J., and Costa, R.M., 2016. Spatiotemporal variation in salinity during drought years in an Amazonian estuary (Taperaçu), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 48–52. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

This study investigated the spatial and temporal variation in salinity in an Amazonian estuary (Taperaçu). Data were collected in the field every three months between April 2012 and March 2015. During each field campaign, CTDs were used to collect data over a 25-hour period at three fixed stations, in the upper, middle and lower estuary. Precipitation data were obtained from INMET (Brazilian Institute of Meteorology). March to May were the months of highest precipitation (around 1000–1400 mm), although 2012 and 2013 were considered to be drought years in eastern Amazonia (annual precipitation < 1800 mm). While the Taperaçu does not have any direct fluvial input, it is connected to the Caeté Estuary through the Taici creek and is connected to adjacent wetlands. Salinity varied considerably between seasons, peaking in the dry season (in particular, in December) in the lower sector of the estuary (40). During the rainy season, salinity reached values of less than 10 in the upper estuary. The drought years (2012–2013) were characterized by higher salinity in comparison with more typical years (2014–2015). These results indicate that the minor estuaries of the Amazon coast, such as the Taperaçu, may contribute to the understanding of the influence of atypical climatic periods on hydrological variables (such as salinity), and their implications for the local biological communities.

Fang, J.Y.; Chen, Y.P.; Yao, P., and Su, M., 2016. Effective Roughness Height in High-Concentrated Flows. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 33–37. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The effective roughness height is an important parameter in coastal sediment transport models. It has been extensively investigated in the past but few research results are related to the high-concentrated flows which often occur in a silty coast. A series of experiments has been carried out in a wave-current flume with silt-sized sediment bed. The mean velocity profiles were measured under different combined wave-current conditions. The effective roughness heights were calculated based on the curve fitting of measured velocity profiles by following the velocity profile model of You (1994). The accuracy of three empirical models, namely, Grant and Madsen (1982), Li and Amos (1998) and You (1996) was examined with the ‘measured’ effective roughness heights. The results show that all the models are not much accurate for the high-concentrated flows, particularly in the case with a relatively small sediment size. Therefore, cautions should be taken when applying those models in the silty coast, particularly during the extreme events.

Kim C.S., 2016. Mixing and dispersal of low saline waters in estuarine coastal waters of the Yellow Sea. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 58–62. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

This study investigates the mixing and dispersal processes of low saline waters that is mass discharged into estuarine coastal waters of the Yellow Sea. During the monsoon season, huge amounts of fresh water are discharged naturally into the Changjiang River Basin and they undergo mixing and dispersion in the coastal waters of the Yellow Sea. In 2003, a very valuable phenomenon showing meandering and patches with vertical lenticular shapes of low saline waters was observed in the Yellow Sea. The observed data presumably are unique as they represent the natural state before the construction of the Three Gorges Dam in China. However, many studies on the general circulation of the Yellow Sea that were conducted for the purposes of implementing a climatological approach were shown to be far from realistic with regard to the observed features of the meandering and dispersal of patches. In this study, we have used a similar numerical method, the ROMS ocean model system for fundamental modeling. However, here the study focuses on the combined effect of down-scaled local surface forcing and tides, applied to low saline water masses of water. The results clearly reveal a process of mixing and dispersal of low saline waters due to the vorticity balance between the Ekman transport and the tidal disturbance that yields meandering and patches with a vertical lenicular structure as observed in the natural field.

Nam-Hoon Kim; Jin Hwan Hwang, and Hyeyun Ku, 2016. Stratification of tidal influenced navigation channel. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 63–67. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Field observation was performed to understand the mixing and stratifying processes in an estuarine navigation channel. An artificial gate located at the mouth of Geum River in Korea discharges freshwater to the coastal sea. While the stratification in this channel is artificially controlled by gate operation, the mixing is determined by tide with about 6 m amplitude of semidiurnal constituent. Discharged freshwater mostly flows though the southern navigation channel and leads to the strong stratification, which could be due to the strong advection in the upper layer during the ebb. At the interface between buoyant current and bottom saltier water, the features of internal waves were observed also with the reduced gravity of 15–22 kg/m³. The gradient Richardson numbers show the seasonal variations of the stratification as expected. Relatively water column was pretty stably stratified in March and partially or well mixed in April and August throughout the regions of navigation channel.

Kim, K.H.; Yoon, H.S., Lee, I.C. and Hibino, T., 2016. An influence of Salinity on Resuspension of Cohesive Sediment. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 68–72. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Field observations were carried out at Tenma River which passes through Hiroshima City to investigate turbidity variations in various salinity conditions. And resuspension experiments with cohesive sediments were conducted using an unidirectional flow channel with varying salinity. Changes in the sediment strength due to the salinity variation were evaluated by using liquid limit test. It was found that turbidity varied in reverse proportion to the salinity in the Tenma River. Also, increases in salinity reduced the resuspension flux and enhanced the settling velocity of cohesive sediment by enhancing the cohesion between the particles. From the results obtained above, we concluded that salinity is an important factor in the transport of cohesive sediment in addition to shear stress and water content in estuaries and blackish rivers.

Kuroiwa, M.; Shibutani, Y.; Yasumoto,; Mase, H, and Matsubara, Y., 2016. Applicability of 3D beach evolution model with wave-current interaction to river-mouth bar formation. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 73–77. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

A coastal area model with wave-current interaction was presented, and then the performance and applicability of the numerical to morphodynamics around river mouths due to waves, wave-induced currents and river flows were investigated. First, model tests were carried out under a variety of wave and river discharge conditions to investigate their capability of predicting the formation of sand spit and terrace topographies. Second, model verification using a field site was conducted and the applicability was investigated. From the computed results, it was confirmed that the prediction of presented model had good qualitative agreement with an actual sand spit formation.

Longo, R.S., Picado, A., Vaz, N. and Dias, J.M., 2016. Biological response of a coastal plain estuary to torrential episodes: a modelling study. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 78–82. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Estuaries are highly dynamic systems with an important impact on biogeochemical cycles and primary production, which may be affected and modified in a climate change context, namely due to extreme rainfall events. This study aims to research chlorophyll-a (Chl-a) and nutrients dynamics in the Tagus estuary under extreme freshwater discharge in a climate change context, using a 2D biophysical model. Three scenarios were set changing the inputs from the main tributaries – Tagus and Sorraia rivers. First, a scenario with one day of extreme discharge for both rivers was considered. Next, and in order to understand the importance of each river, two more scenarios were set considering the extreme discharges separately. Results show that Chl-a concentrations follow the same trend as the imposed discharges, however with a delay of one day. The results also reveal that the biogeochemical characteristics of the Tagus estuary are mainly influenced by the Tagus River inflow. Moreover, in the scenario where the extreme discharges are imposed for both rivers, Chl-a levels increase in the entire estuary and consequently a decrease in nitrate concentrations is observed. Otherwise, phosphate concentrations slightly increase. This suggests primary producers inside the estuary preferentially consumes nitrate, at a higher rate than it is being loaded.

Martins, S. E. M; Barcellos, R. L; Flores-Montes, M. J. and França, E. J. 2016. Depositional evolution in a lagoonal estuarine system under a port influence in Northeastern Brazil. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 83–87. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The Holocene evolution reconstruction corroborates to understand sediment dynamics and, recent anthropogenic environmental changes; in addition, may subsidize the future prospects of its development. The aim of this work is to elaborate a historical comparative analysis of the total organic matter content (TOM), calcium carbonate (CaCO₃) and grain size variation in a estuarine environment and adjacent inner shelf area under influence of Recife Port (8°03′S/34°53″W), Northeastern Brazil. Two sediment cores were collected (Jun/2013), one (1.26m long) in the inlet of the estuarine system (T2E); and another (1.30m long) in a sheltered area of a breakwater adjacent to the estuary mouth (T3E). The sedimentation rate, measured based on breakwater building (1909), was 1.18 cm.year⁻¹ in T3E and 0.81 cm.year⁻¹ in T2E. The cores presented preservation of structures indicative of waves and currents processes, such as erosive surfaces, linsen bedding, flaser bedding, and wavy bedding, environment features of shallow platform. Both cores presented variations in sediment composition with an essential carbonate sandy base ranging upward to a terrigenous mud on their tops. The change in sediment composition indicates environmental changes such as the increase in the sediment suspension concentrations, directly influenced by changes in coastal engineering in the Recife Port. The results indicate how important local rivers sediments input and estuarine processes are to deposition features in the estuarine lagoonal system, like the mud trapping and preservation in the inner shelf shallow areas adjacent to the Recife Port.

McSweeney, S.L.; Hart, D.E., Todd, D.J., and Kennedy, D.M. 2016. Changes in the Frequency and Duration of Closures of the Opihi Rivermouth Following Construction of Opuha Dam. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 88–92. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Hapua are coastal lagoons found at the mouths of braided gravel rivers that experiee a semi-permanent connection with the ocean related to fluvial discharge and marine sediment deposition. Sustained closure is driven by low river flows and is associated with a decrease in water quality, the impedance of fish passage and flooding. On many Hapua, irrigation schemes have modified natural flow regimes, yet there is little field data on how this affects the dynamics of the lagoon. In this study we examine the Opihi rivermouth (New Zealand) which has a naturally seasonal low flow regime and a hydrology extensively modified through irrigation abstraction and dam construction Analysis of the entrance morphodynamics pre and post-dam construction indicates a decrease in the frequency and duration of rivermouth closures. This is due to the more constant flow regime maintained by the dam. Despite this, seasonal patterns of closure still persist over summer which illustrates the importance of marine processes in driving entrance condition. Three scenarios of natural closure are identified: summer low flows, fluvial slug deposition, and coastal storms. Closure duration was also observed to be extended when river flows are low, onshore wave energy is high and when the outlet channel is considerably offset.

Monteiro, S.M. and Robrini, M., 2016. Salinity variation in the macrotidal mixing zone: the Paracauari River estuary, Marajó Island (Northern Brazil). In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 93–97. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The objective of this study is to delineate the estuarine zones (Riverine Zone – RZ, under river influence; Mixing Zone – MZ, under marine influence) across different seasonal periods in the macrotidal Paracauari River estuary – Marajó Island (Northern Brazil). We measured salinity (S) and electric conductivity (EC) in the water column using a multi-parameter probe. We also collected data on suspended particulate matter (SPM – gravimetric estimation) along 40 km of the estuary during higher rainfall (660 mm), transitional (260 mm), and lower rainfall (10 mm) periods in 2008. The first sampling station was located at the river mouth (marine domain) and the last sampling station was in riverine domain. Due to La Niña phenomenon, the Paracauari River estuary showed mean EC and S ranging from 256 μS.cm⁻¹ and 0.1, respectively, in the higher rainfall period, to 11002 μS.cm⁻¹ and 6.1 in the lower rainfall period. Maximum SPM concentrations (93.72 mg.L⁻¹) occurred during the higher rainfall period and minimum values (15.49 mg.L⁻¹) occurred during the lower rainfall period. Therefore, RZ (oligohaline, S < 1.0) prevails during higher rainfall period; during the transitional period, an eight km-wide MZ (oligohaline, S = 1.5) is present and the RZ is upstream; in the lower rainfall period, marine waters penetrate as far as 40 km from the mouth, thus characterizing this stretch as MZ (mesohaline, 2.5 < S < 7.5). Hence, the zonation of the Paracauari River estuary is influenced by river waters during periods of higher rainfall rates and by marine waters during periods of lower rainfall rates.

Monteiro, M.C.; Pereira, L.C.C., and Jiménez, J.A., 2016. The trophic status of an Amazon estuary under anthropic pressure (Brazil). In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. XX-XX. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The effects of the anthropogenic process on the trophic status of the Caeté estuary (located 150 km southwest of the Amazon delta) were undertaken under different climate conditions. To do this, oceanographic data were carried out, covering the dry season of 2010 (August–December: rainfall 363 mm), and the wet (January–July, rainfall 2483 mm) and dry seasons of 2011 (August–October, rainfall 135 mm). During the dry season (2010 and 2011) the mean discharge of the Caeté River was less than 20.0 m³ s⁻¹, while, during the wet season, the mean discharge increased to 73.6 m³ s⁻¹. Tidal ranges oscillated between 2.2 and 3.8 m, and current speeds varied from 0.6 and 0.7 m s⁻¹ in both seasons (wet and dry). Salinity (under 3.0) and pH (under 6.0) were typical of fluvial systems. Turbidity (up to 150 NTU), dissolved oxygen (6.7 mg L⁻¹) and dissolved nutrient (nitrite, nitrate, phosphate and silicate, but not ammonium) concentrations reached their maximum levels during the dry season, when the runoff decreased. The high chlorophyll a concentrations (values of up to 10.0 mg m⁻³) were typical of environments with high levels of primary productivity. According to the trophic index (TRIX), the waters of the Caeté estuary were characterized by moderate levels of eutrophication and good water quality during the wet season, shifting to high levels of eutrophication and bad water quality during the dry season. A comparative analysis indicates that eutrophication is less intense during neap tides in comparison with spring tides.

Myrhaug, D. and Ong, M.C., 2016. Random Wave-Induced Onshore Scour Characteristics around Submerged Breakwaters on Mild Slopes. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 103–107. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

This paper provides a stochastic method by which the two-dimensional onshore scour characteristics along the base of submerged breakwaters exposed to normally incident random waves on a mildly sloped sandy seabed can be derived. Here the formulas for the regular wave-induced scour characteristics provided by Young and Testik (2009) combined with the Battjes and Groenendijk (2000) wave height distribution for mild slopes are used. These formulas are combined with describing the waves as a stationary random process. An example is included to calculate the significant values of the random wave-induced onshore scour characteristics; the maximum scour depth, the scour length, and the distance of the maximum scour depth location from the onshore breakwater face. The present results can be used to make assessment of the random wave-induced scour characteristics based on available wave statistics.

Jang, D.; Hwang, J.H.; and, Nguyen, T.T.H., 2016. Downscaled numerical modelling to study the climate change effects on the estuarine stratification. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 108-112. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The climate change affects adversely the estuarine systems by acidifying and increasing temperature of the seawater. Also temperature rises faster in the surface layer than the deep water and this strengthens the stratification. Such changes of the stratification could affect circulation, water quality and so ecosystem of an estuary in the various ways. Therefore, the prediction of the changes of the stratification in the estuary is critical in mitigating the damage to the ecosystem of the estuaries. However, the prediction of the stratification in the coastal water bodies requires highly resolved information for the complicate circulations and complex coastal lines of the estuaries. Therefore, we downscaled data from the large-scale operational ocean models to the local regional models to simulate an estuary of Korea for the near present years and 50 years later with the sea level rise. Based on these downscaled results, Potential Energy Anomalies (PEAs) are numerated, which can help to assess quantitatively the stratification. Based on the PEA analysis, the stratification effects are expected to be much more significant in the estuarine river channel than the coastal sea and it means that the sea level rise affects both the coastal sea and upstream fresh water area.

Park, J.H.; Yoo, C.I. and Yoon, H.S., 2016. Use of groundwater-table to establish a buffer zone In a barrier Island, Nakdong river estuary, South Korea. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 113-117. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

A barrier island works as a buffer zone against wave and tidal forces, especially in river estuaries. To quantitatively analyze the buffer zone mechanism, understanding the wave, tide precipitation and groundwater-table by using long-term field observation is necessary. This study presents a coastal buffer zone mechanism in a barrier island (Jinudo) of the Nakdong river estuary in Busan, South Korea. For establishing a coastal buffer zone in a barrier island, we measured the groundwater at five observation points for 26 months from March 2012 and obtained wave and tidal data from a national observation station near the river mouth. We constructed a wave transformation numerical model and extracted breaking wave conditions, and then we compared data from the numerical model with a real-time groundwater data. According to the results, the buffer zone maximized up to 166.3 m from the shoreline with a wave height and period of 0.05 m and 12 sec, respectively, for 8 hours. Considering seawater infiltration, the buffer zone was observed to reduce to 125.0 m. The critical values are likely to define a coastal protection zone and vegetation distribution characteristic.

Portela, L.I.; Custódio, A., and Trigo-Teixeira, A., 2016. Deposition in flowing water of fine sediments under different salinity conditions. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 118-122. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

While the effect of salinity on the settling of fine sediments has been shown to be important in laboratory experiments, only a few studies have attempted to investigate depositional properties in flumes under different salinity conditions. This paper examines the effect of salinity on the deposition in flowing water of fine sediments collected in the Tagus estuary. The sampling site is located in the middle-upper reach of the estuary, where fine-grained sediments are the dominant intertidal material and tidal currents the major transport mechanism. The experiments were conducted in an annular flume (mean diameter 3.7 m, height 0.4 m, width 0.3 m), with initial suspended sediment concentration of 0.7 g l⁻¹ and five different salinities (0, 2.5, 5, 10 and 15). Two types of experiments were performed: tidal variation for 6.5 hours; and response to sudden reduction in flow velocity (from 0.5 m s⁻¹ to 0.25 m s⁻¹) for 8 hours. Samples were collected every 30 minutes to determine suspended sediment concentration by filtration and grain size by laser diffraction. The experiments with different salinities have yielded similar results, particularly regarding deposition for a velocity of 0.25 m s⁻¹ (final C = 0.417-0.399 g l⁻¹, D₉₀ = 22-19 μm, D₅₀ = 8-6 μm, D₁₀ = 2 μm). A consistent effect of salinity on the deposition of fine sediments from a flowing suspension could not be observed. Further research should examine deposition at lower flow velocities.

Ribeiro, A.S.; Sousa, M. C.; Lencart e Silva, J. D., and Dias, J.M., 2016. David and Goliath Revisited: Joint Modelling of the Tagus and Sado Estuaries. Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 123-127. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The Tagus and Sado estuaries discharge in the same coastal region into the Portuguese continental shelf. Several studies focus on the investigation of the complex circulation at the mouth of Tagus or Sado estuaries, however, the interaction between these two systems was never taken into account and were not performed previous studies dedicated to this topic. To study this important issue, numerical modelling is an important tool that allows researching the interaction between plumes under different conditions. Thus, it was developed an implementation of the three-dimensional model Delft3D-Flow integrating Tagus and Sado estuaries and adjacent shelf to investigate the complex interaction between flows. The numerical model was calibrated using sea surface height, salinity and water temperature data, and then applied to research the role of river discharge and wind effects on the plumes interaction. To examine the response of the estuarine plumes to different wind directions, four scenarios of moderate winds were considered blowing from each of the main four compass points. Two markedly different realistic scenarios were chosen: moderate and high Tagus and Sado River discharges. Independently of rivers discharges, the results revealed an intrusion of the Sado plume in Tagus estuary. This intrusion occurred in the bottom layers in all scenarios due to the ambient coastal current, even when the river discharges decreases. The reverse pattern was not observed, demonstrating an unexpected impact of the smaller estuary on the larger.

Rosário, R.P., Borba, T.A.C., Santos, A.S., and Rollnic, M., 2016. Variability of Salinity in Pará River Estuary: 2D Analysis with Flexible Mesh Model. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 128–132. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

This research aims to study the spatial and temporal variability of the salinity in the Pará River Estuary. The Pará River estuary is among the largest in Brazil, with a mouth of approximately 60 km wide. The Pará River is not a true river because it does not have a spring, but is a hydrographic mesh that receives outflow of several water bodies. There is an ingestion of salt in the Pará River Estuary, different of what occurs within Amazon River, that leads estuarine characteristics onto the continental shelf. The model was implemented based on flexible mesh in the estuarine area of the Amazon River and Pará River basin for one-year simulation. The software D-Flow FM was used to perform hydrodynamic model and, D3D-D-Waq to water quality model. These experiments support a conceptual description of haline dynamics of this system to produce information regarding different scenarios in the region. Fieldworks were made (25h - three points in estuary) in low, high, and transitional rivers discharge in order to evaluate the model performance. The main conclusions are: the numerical modeling showed an upstream saline intrusion about 130 km for the dry period (October to December) and about 70 km for the rainy period (January to May). 2D barotropic condition shows river discharge as the most important force that control the variation of saline intrusion due to the reduction of freshwater flow in the system.

Saintilan, N.; Rogers, K.; Toms C. Stein, E.D., and Jacobs, D.K., 2016. Intermittent Estuaries: linking Hydro-geomorphic Context to Climate Change Resilience In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 133–137. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Intermittent estuaries are temporarily open to exchange with the open ocean, and the influence of their entrance opening regime on hydrological and ecological function has received considerable attention. Here we consider the influence of tectonic, climatic and geomorphic controls on the distribution of estuarine habitats by contrasting two settings: the south coasts of New South Wales, Australia, and California USA. The combination of tectonic uplift and semi-arid, variable hydrology in southern California provides a stronger sediment yield to estuaries than in the tectonically stable temperate setting of southern Australia. This reflects in a greater proportional area of intertidal vegetation and a higher elevation capital than encountered in SE Australia. The implications for estuary management in the context of sea-level rise and urbanization are discussed.

Schwarzer, K.; Nguyen Cong Thanh and Ricklefs, K., 2016. Sediment re-deposition in the mangrove environment of Can Gio, Saigon River estuary (Vietnam). In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 138–142. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Sediment re-deposition in mangrove environments is usually attributed to marine and estuarine hydrodynamics - rainfall as a driver was not considered yet. However, combined with annual water level variations, tropical rainfall can play a significant role for sediment re-deposition. Inside mangroves, current velocities induced by rainwater runoff during low tide conditions can be much stronger than tide-induced currents. Along the Saigon River Estuary and the Mekong Delta coastline, rainfall is high from May to October and low from December to April. To study processes controlling sediment re-deposition, data of current and suspended matter concentration have been combined with sediment re-deposition rates. All investigations have been carried out in the Can Gio mangrove reserve, Saigon River mouth. Based on a 19-year data set (1991 – 2009), strong annual variability in water level heights and tidal range are observed, with a mean maximum high tide level of 3.34 m during the rainy season and 3.73 m at the beginning of the dry season. Maximum tidal range is reached during the rainy season coinciding with the lowest annual average sea level. The highest parts of the mangrove forest are not inundated by tides during these periods. Only heavy rainfall during these times can lead to mangrove soil mobilisation, induce strong currents between the mangrove roots and cause erosional gullies. Depending on the amount of precipitation, this sediment mobilisation and the amount of suspension load in the forest can be much stronger than sediment transport induced by tidal currents.

Silva, E.V.; Farias, J. F.; Barbosa, L.N., and Lima, V.G. F., 2016. Environmental Dynamics of the Estuary of the Pacoti River in Ceará, Brazil: Proposals for Management and Environmental Planning. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 143–147. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The estuary of the Pacoti River (3°49′27″ S, 38°24′18″ W) is located in the state of Ceará, in northeastern Brazil. The estuary is also part of the Rio Pacoti Environmental Protection Area (Rio Pacoti EPA), which is important for the stability of the local ecosystems and the exchange of material and energy. Despite being protected legally, the environmental quality of the study area is being threatened by impacts such as the deforestation, landfills, the contamination of the water table, and unregulated building, which all alter the natural dynamics of the local systems. These impacts result from inadequate processes of land use and occupation, which fail to respect local potentialities and limitations. The present study found that these processes of degradation are ongoing, and do not only contradict the legislation that regulates the sustainable use of the local environment, but may also cause irreparable damage to the local geo-ecological systems, constituting a grave problem for this sector of the coast of Ceará. In this context, the study presents a geo-environmental description of the estuary and an integrated diagnosis, based on the geo-ecological analysis of the landscape, in two phases –organization and survey, analysis, diagnosis, and proposals. The application of this geo-ecological analysis resulted in the demarcation and classification of the following units: coastal plain and the pre-coastal plateau. Based on this analysis, a proposal for the environmental and functional zoning of the study area was put forward, with the objective of integrating economic development with the conservation of local natural resources.

Son, M., Byun, J., Kim, S., and Chung, E.-S., 2016. Effect of particale size on calibration of Schmidt number. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 148–152. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The effect of particle size on calibrating the Schmidt number (σ_c) is numerically investigated in this study. The experiments are carried out under different conditions of flow type and particle size. From calculation results, it is known that σ_c is calibrated to be 0.25 to 2.0 as the particle size changes from 320 μm to 130 μm. The value of σ_c shows the inverse-relationship with particle size. σ_c determines the particle diffusivity. When σ_c is smaller than 1.0, the particle diffusivity becomes larger than the momentum diffusivity. A large particle having large inertia can diffuse relatively more compared to small particle under the condition that the turbulent intensity decreases. Therefore, σ_c is calibrated to be small as the particle size increases. This idea is examined by calculating the Stokes number and sediment diffusivity. As the particle size increases, both of Stokes number and sediment diffusivity also increase.

Song, J.I.; Kim, J.W.; Yoon, B.I., and Woo, S.B., 2016. Spatial and temporal variability of residual volume transport according to artificial freshwater discharge in Yeoungsan river estuary, South Korea. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 153–157. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

To determine the effect of artificial freshwater discharge on the spatial and temporal variability of residual current and residual volume transport, current and density profile data have been analyzed in the Yeoungsan River estuary (YRE), South Korea. Current and density data were obtained from three transects during no freshwater discharge and during freshwater discharge. The residual current structure is complex (e.g., vertically multi-layer) during no freshwater discharge, due to the combined influence of tides, wind, and topography. In contrast, strong freshwater discharge influences vertical mixing at the surface layer and no mixing at the bottom layer. This mixing characteristic causes a salinity gradient with depth and significant stratification. The direction of residual volume transport is flood-direction during no freshwater discharge and ebb-direction during freshwater discharge. Residual volume transport and stratification are shown to be dependent on artificial freshwater discharge in the YRE.

Sousa, N.S.S.; Monteiro. M.C.; Gorayeb, A.; Costa, R.M., and Pereira, L.C.C., 2016. Effects of sewage on natural environments of the Amazon region (Pará-Brazil). In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 158–162. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The negative effects of sewage discharge were analyzed in two Amazonian environments (the Caeté Estuary and the Cereja River) subject to different levels of anthropogenic impact. For this, samples of surface water were collected for the analysis of physical, chemical, and microbiological parameters during dry and wet season. In the Caeté Estuary, the results indicated high levels of total nitrogen and fecal coliforms in the upper sector. Eutrophic conditions were recorded in the wet and dry season. Natural and anthropogenic sources may contribute to the input of dissolved nutrients, maintaining the eutrophic conditions of the estuary. A similar pattern was observed in the Cereja River, with higher concentrations being found in the most urbanized sector, however, these water were mesotrophic. The planning and construction of a public sewage collection system and treatment plant by local authorities will be a key step towards the improvement of the water quality of the Caeté and Cereja rivers.

Tan, Y.; Yang, F.; Xie, D, H, 2016. The Change of Tidal Characteristics under the Influence of Human Activities in the Yangtze Estuary. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 163–167. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The aim of this study is to understand the change of tidal wave characteristics in the Yangtze River Estuary by human activities. The harmonic analysis results based on measurement shows that the semidiurnal tides are dominant in Yangtze River Estuary. The shallow water constituents are significant. Tidal constituent S_a, which is one of main meteorological tides, is gradually increasing with the increase of upper stream river discharge. The amplitude of S_a is highly correlated to the maximum anomaly discharge value (maximum daily discharge differing from the long term mean). Due to human activities, the changes of the river discharge, the water depth and the shape of the costal line in the Yangtze River cause the change of tidal wave propagation. A 2-D numerical model is established to simulate the evolution of main tidal constituents in the Yangtze Estuary under the influence of human activities.

Travassos, R.K.; Flores Montes, M.J.; Costa, B.V. M., and Silva Junior, J.M., 2016. The influence of urban effluents on the elemental C/N ratio in a tropical coastal area of northeastern Brazil. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 168-172. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The present study was performed in a tropical and highly eutrophic estuarine system in the urban coastal area of Greater Recife, Pernambuco, northeastern Brazil. Organic carbon is introduced into these urban estuaries through domestic and industrial sewage waste. One indicator of anthropogenic influence is the concentration of organic matter, including the suspended elemental forms of carbon and total nitrogen and the C/N ratio. The distribution of the concentrations of both particulate organic carbon and total nitrogen (POC and TN, respectively) were studied in two parallel transects in the estuarine plumes of Pernambuco's major rivers, the Capibaribe (CP) and the Jaboatão (JP), from 2010 to 2011. The archipelago of Fernando de Noronha, with relatively little human influence, was selected as the control area. The particulate organic matter exported via estuarine flow was defined by elemental carbon median values of 2.04% and 0.97%. The C/N ratio of the Capibaribe and Jaboatão plumes featured median values of 6.60 and 9.30, respectively. The principal components analysis (PCA) results suggest that the percentage of POC was influenced by rainfall and that the percentage of TN was influenced by the transport of suspended particulate matter. These differences may result from different loads of human activities and estuary transport dynamics, and the coastal region highlights the complexity of the distribution of organic matter in these environments.

Lee, H.S.; Kim, I.H., and Kim, H.G., 2016. Application of terrestrial 3D laser scanning to monitor changes of beach landforms. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 173–177. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Monitoring changes in the beach morphology of coastal landforms is important when considering coastal management measures. In this paper, to create a changing beach surface, point cloud data of the beach are obtained using three-dimensional (3D) terrestrial laser scanning (TLS), and a beach surface model is analysed based on 3D point data. The 3D point cloud is generated from the scanned beach, including breakwaters, and these points are registered and merged through a reference point (scan origin and ball target) surveyed by RTK-GPS. Noise elements and unnecessary points are eliminated to yield better surface modelling results. Mesh data of the scan point features are created from the integrated points and represent the beach surface of the triangulated irregular network (TIN) model. The 3D modelling of the mesh data enables the user to determine the width, length, and height of breakwater structures through outline extraction and analyse the beach profile. These dimensions of the structure are designed as a 2D plan. It is recommended that the point measurement interval must be dense to create a complete beach surface over a wide area. The approach to TLS appears to provide an efficient means of accurately measuring the beach surface.

Vaz, L.; Sêrodio, J., Mateus, M., Dias, J.M., and Vaz, N., 2016. Primary production of the benthic microalgae in the bottom sediments of Ria de Aveiro Lagoon. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 178–182. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The Ria de Aveiro is a mesotidal coastal lagoon located in the north coast of Portugal. It has a complex irregular geometry characterized by large intertidal areas and several freshwater tributaries, which are the main sources of nutrients into the lagoon. The dynamics between the tidal propagation and the landward nutrient sources modulates the primary production within the lagoon. Here, primary production may have two main contributors: the chlorophyll in the water column and the benthic microalgae in the bottom sediments.

In this work, a new methodology to compute microalgae in the bottom sediments is presented, consisting in coupling a numerical module of the benthic layer to a biophysical model. To perform the study, three schematic scenarios were implemented: Scenario 1 is the reference case, where typical nutrient load values were considered; Scenario 2 doubles the nutrient load concentrations at ocean and river boundaries; Scenario 3 reduces to half the nutrient values.

The results show that an increase in nutrient load (Scenario 2) causes a reduction of benthic biomass, while a decrease causes an increase of benthic biomass, impacting the lagoon's primary production. In general, an increment of nutrient concentration in the water column favors the phytoplankton growth, which increases biomass. This will lead to an attenuation of the light intensity reaching the bottom sediments, resulting in a decrease of benthic primary production. The opposite pattern is observed for Scenario 3 in response to nutrient concentration.

Yang, J. and Tao, J., 2016. The retention and transport patterns of pollutants in the radial sand ridges of the South Yellow Sea. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 183–187. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The transport and dilution processes of pollutants are complex due to complicated morphology and dynamic factors in the radial sand ridges. The “moving stationary tidal wave” formed by progressive tidal wave from the East China Sea and the anti-clockwise rotary tidal wave from the Yellow Sea, together with the multiple radial tidal channels and flats, make the patterns different for exchange and retention of pollutants. Two retention timescales, the residence time and exposure time, were employed as diagnostic tools to the radial sand ridges, and surface wind was shown to be a significant factor to affect the transport patterns. Meanwhile, Lagrangian particles denoting pollutants were introduced for analyzing their transport trajectories and obtaining the retention timescales. Additionally, the finite-time Lyapunov exponents (FTLE) fields were integrated to locate Lagrangian coherent structures (LCSs). As time evolved, in most of the snapshots obvious longshore LCSs were detected at Xiyang, which is one of the deepest tidal channels and is demonstrated to be an important pathway of mass transport. Furthermore, the tidal channels were shown to have effects on confining the movements of water parcels or pollutants.

Yuk, J.-H.; Aoki, S., and Joh, M., 2016. Wind-induced water exchange between stratified basins. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 188–192. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Water exchange between Inohanako Estuary and Hamanako Bay, Japan with density stratification is investigated using the field data. The basins are connected by a narrow channel with length 200 m through which waters and nutrients are exchanged between them. The principal axis of channel between two basins is located nearly in the north-south direction, thus it is natural that the water flow between the estuary and bay is influenced more by the north-south component of wind than the east-west component of that. Although the relationship between water exchange and the east-west component of wind is relatively low compared with the north-south component, the water exchange is controlled by this. In this study, using the field data measured by ADCP and CTD in summer months of 2009, a mechanism of wind-induced water exchange was investigated and discussed. A simple theoretical approach suggested that the dynamic response of density surface in Hamanako Bay to the wind force caused the circulating flow in the channel. The change of water density was more remarkable in Hamanako Bay than in Inohanako Estuary in response to the wind direction, and the surface layer in Hamanako Bay became thinner during the westerly wind. This study shows that the water exchange associated with the east-west wind is caused by the difference of water pressures between Inoahnako Estuary and Hamanako Bay, which is induced by the fluctuation of density interface between the surface and bottom layers due to wind.

Zhang, Q.; Tao, J.F., and Yang, J., 2016. Numerical study on the transport timescale in a river-influenced macro-tidal estuary. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 193–197. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

A transport module was developed and coupled with TELEMAC flow model to simulate the spatial and temporal distributive characteristics of the transport timescale based on the mean age concept defined by Delhez. The influences of river discharge, tide and large-scale flat reclamation in Taizhou Bay on the transport timescale were analyzed. Model results show that the transport timescale in the river channel is dominated by fluvial discharge over tide. It took approximately 60, 40 and 35 days for the tracer to be transported from the river boundary to the mouth of the Jiaojiang Estuary during the low, mean and high flow conditions, respectively. Outside the entrance of the estuary, tide dominates and the influence of riverine discharge is minor. Large-scale reclamation considerably affects the age distribution outside the estuary and around the project area, while it has little influence on the mass transport in the upstream part of the estuary. After the reclamation, the difference in mean age between the main channel and the tidal flat increases and the tongue-shaped spatial structure of mean age is more evident.

Zhang, J.; Sun, K.; Zhai, Y.; Zhang, H., and Zhang, C., 2016. Physical study on interactions between waves and a well-mixed seabed. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 198–202. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The problem of wave-seabed interaction has attracted more and more attention of coastal researchers and engineers, as it plays an important role in the estimations of seabed stability and foundation design of offshore structures. Much effort has been made by many investigators to study the wave-seabed interaction in the past decades. However, most of them focus on the wave-induced response within a seabed with single/uniform soil particle, ignoring the mixed seabed consisting of different soil particles in the real environment. A series of laboratory experiments are carried out in a wave flume to study the wave-driven pore-water pressure in a well-mixed seabed (consisting of sand and silt) and the attenuation of wave height. Waves propagating over a mixed seabed lead to oscillatory excess pore-water pressures within the porous seabed. Maximum amplitude of the ratio of pore-water pressure within the seabed to pressure on seabed surface decreases within a deeper layer. A phase lag of pore-water pressure is clearly observed, and it contributes to net upward pressure related to seabed instability. The impacts of mixture percentage of sand/silt on pore-water pressure are also analyzed and discussed.

Chen, Y.P., Li, J.X., and Pan, S.Q., 2016. Dynamic analysis of riverbed evolution: Chengtong Reach of Yangtze Estuary. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 203–207, Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

This paper proposes a new approach to improve the analysis by extensively using the numerical model results. A 2D hydrodynamic model based on the Delft 3D suite is first set up and validated with the field measurement data. The model is then used to examine the hydrodynamic responses of the estuary to the change of local bathymetry or upstream discharge. This approach is applied to the Chengtong Reach of Yangtze Estuary as an example. The net discharge ratio (NDR) is used as an index to demonstrate the trend of channel development. The results show that the net discharge ratios (NDRs) at the main channels of Fujiangsha, Tongzhousha and Langshansha sub-reaches decrease with increase of upstream river discharge in general; however, the NDR at the main channel of Rugaosha sub-reach increases first, and then decreases with increase of upstream river discharge when the river discharge is larger than 45,000 m³/s. This difference is related to the local bathymetry as well as the ebb-dominated or flood-dominated characters in those sub-reaches.

Choi, B.H.; Yuk, J.-H., and Kim, K.O., 2016. Integral tide-surge-wave model of the Yellow Sea for understanding local sediment transport. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 208–212. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Numerical simulations of tide and tidal current for the effect of the new port on Saemangeum area were carried out based on finely resolved meshes and integral tide-surge-wave model of the whole Yellow Sea and also for a compact model optimized for the field operation. The resulting modelling system can be used for hindcasting (prediction) the tide-surge-wave coupled environments at complex coastline, shallow water and fine-grained sediment area like areas around Korean Peninsula. We investigated and discussed the changes of tidal residual current, maximum bottom shear stress and tidal energy dissipation due to the new port for Saemangeum area where the construction of new large port is being built.

Kim, T.W., Lee, W.D., Hur, D.S., Lee, J.L and Yoon, J.S., 2016. Hydraulic and Environmental Stability Analysis in the Estuary of Gahwa River and Sacheon Bay by the Change of Discharge of Namgang Dam in South Korea. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 213–217. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Namgang dam is located in the southern part of South Korea. Flow discharged from Namgang dam for a flood control runs Kahwa river and finally reaches Sacheon bay. In a rainy or typhoon period, the discharged flow can inundate and affect the hydraulic stability and safety of estuarine areas of Kahwa river, Sacheon river, Jungseonpo river, and Jukcheon river. In this study, we performed a 3-dimensional hydraulic experiment and numerical analysis to analyze the level of water rise in the estuarine areas and environmental effect to Sacheon bay by the change of discharge of Namgang dam. A hydraulic model, based on bathymetric and aerial LIDAR survey data, was made in the scale of 1/50. The experimental and numerical results were compared with the observational results. From the experimental and numerical results, it reveals that as the amount of discharge from Namgang dam increases, water levels in the estuarine areas of Jungseonpo river and Sacheon river and the industrial area around Sacheon bay significantly increases by the effect of backwater. In addition, analyzing the measured salinity concentration, we also find out that the range of diffusion of discharged water into Sacheon bay and it takes about 20 days to recover the original salinity concentration.

Leite, N.R.; Magalhães. A.; Silva, L.M.; Andrade, T. P.; Matos, J. B.; Costa, A. K.;Pereira, L.C.C.; Flores-Montes, M.J., and Costa, R.M.da., 2016. Short and Medium Term Variation in the Dynamics of the Mesozooplankton Community of an Amazonian Estuary. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 218–222. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The aim of this study was to investigate the short- and medium-term variation in the dynamics of the zooplankton community, in a macrotidal estuary (the Taperaçu) of the Amazon Coast of northern Brazil. This estuary has a characteristic funnel shape, with extensive sandbars running down the middle and current patterns typical of a shallow estuary, in addition to substantial seasonal variation. Fluctuations in zooplankton densities were analyzed in the context of the influence of the tidal cycle, temperature, salinity, turbidity, pH, dissolved oxygen concentration and chlorophyll-a concentrations. Data were collected in months of June, September and December 2012 and March, June, and September/2013. Samples were taken at three fixed stations, S1, S2, and S3 at 3-hour intervals over a nychthemeral cycle during the neap tide. The data were analyzed using a two-way ANOVA (to test the significance of the variation among stations, months, tides, and the circadian cycle) and PCA. Five principal species were identified–A. tonsa, A. lilljerborgii, P. marshi, P. quasimodo, O. oswaldocruzi and O.dioica. The results indicate that the patterns of variation (temporal, tidal, and spatial) in the zooplankton of the Taperaçu estuary were determined primarily by precipitation, salinity, turbidity, and chlorophyll-a concentrations, due to the strong local hydrodynamics and the unique morphodynamic characteristics of the estuary that provoke the constant mixing of its waters.

Araujo, M.; Medeiros, C. and Endres, J-P., 2016. An Analytic Approach to Model the Tidal Circulation in a Double-inlet Estuary. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 223-227. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Estuaries comprise broad spectra of systems whose morphology often rule theirs hydrodynamics. The Itamaracá estuarine system (NE-Brazil) is formed by the Santa Cruz Channel (SCC), connecting to the Atlantic Ocean through two inlets. Water level and in depth current measurements were used to evaluate an analytical approach for representing its tidal circulation. Depth-averaged currents were analytically predicted with 11% error (δ₁ = 0.11). Currents measurements for five different sampling stations and depths were compared to model responses for various values of eddy viscosity (ν) and bottom friction parameter (r). The best-fit quadratic error δ₂ = 0.155 was obtained with ν = 6.3×10⁻³m²s⁻¹ and r = 6.5×10⁻³ms⁻¹. Model improvements, considering bottom friction and eddy diffusivity formulations, indicated a boundary layer depth of 0.10H (H=channel depth), and a large (6.1×10⁻³m) mean roughness length of the sea-bed to couple with the intricate roots system of red mangroves along the SCC. Simulations were also used to test Taylor's (1954) scale analysis, yielding c = 0.080 as best value (c = ν/u_*H constant; u_* =bottom friction velocity) and a mean eddy viscosity of 5.8×10⁻³ m²s⁻¹). The low sensibility of momentum distribution to changes in eddy viscosity verified suggests that stronger viscosity dumping may be compensated by higher bottom shear stress. This simple analytical approach could also be used to predict spatial and temporal distribution of pollutants and other materials at SSC and at similar systems as advection of those components could easily be simulated combining modelled currents with measurements of theirs concentrations.

Hein, C.J.; Fitzsimons, G.G., FitzGerald, D.M., and Fallon, A.R., 2016. Records of Migration and Ebb-Delta Breaching at Historic and Ancient Tidal Inlets along a River-Fed Paraglacial Barrier Island. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 228-232. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Tidal inlets link backbarrier environments to the coastal ocean and play a dominant role in both longshore and cross-shore sediment transport. Additionally, inlet-fill sequences comprise up to 50% of barrier lithosomes in wave-dominated settings. This study uses historic records to investigate centennial-scale cycles of inlet dynamics and barrier shoreline adjustment at Merrimack River Inlet (Plum Island, Gulf of Maine). Geophysical and sedimentological data reveal geometric and stratigraphic signatures of these recent changes, and allow for comparison to similar records preserved within a nearby 3600-year-old inlet-fill sequence. Driven by processes of longshore transport, spit elongation and ebb-delta breaching, the Merrimack River Inlet once actively migrated across a 2.5-km long section of Plum Island. An ebb-delta breaching event in the mid-1800s caused abandonment of the former inlet channel and the onshore welding of a large sand bar, which developed into the northern 1.5 km of the island. The inlet stabilized by jetties in the late 1800s. Ground-penetrating radar profiles and sediment cores across this former inlet channel capture the details of changes prior to breaching, including the seaward deflection of the otherwise southerly and landward-migrating channel, in response to onshore bar migration and welding. Similar details of inlet migration, bar welding, and ebb-delta breaching are observed stratigraphic records of an ancient inlet in central PI, located 7 km to the south. Comparison between the ancient and historical sequences provides clues to decipher the complex inlet dynamics preserved in the stratigraphic and sedimentologic record.

Popesso, C.; Pacheco, A.; Ferreira, Ó., and Fontolan, G., 2016. Evolution of a relocated inlet migrating naturally along an open coast. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 233-237. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Ancão Inlet is a small migrating inlet that was relocated in 1997 and has been monitored since then. In October 2015, it was about to conclude its third eastward migrating cycle since the 1940s. Morphological parameters and migration rates were correlated with oceanographic settings to evaluate the importance of different mechanisms in the evolutionary phases of the inlet. The migration trend is related to the dominant southwest sea conditions, inducing the alongshore sediment transport from west to east. The inherited features of the downdrift side area were also considered as rate of migration constraints. In this paper, we show how storm events, a constant longshore sediment supply from the west, and a lower downdrift barrier island volume control migration rates, noting that inlet efficiency is also strongly influenced by the reshaping of the barrier area.

Sedigh, M.; Tomlinson, R.; Cartright, N., and Etemad-Shahidi, A., 2016. Morphological evolution of the Nerang River Entrance ebb-tidal delta. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 238–242. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The Nerang River entrance is a tidal inlet that connects the Pacific Ocean to the extensive Gold Coast estuarine system known as the Broadwater. Due to relatively fast northward migration of the inlet from 1920 to 1985 and the importance of having a safe navigable channel, the inlet was stabilized with two training walls in 1986. A sand bypassing system was implemented upstream with an average sand bypassing rate equal to the estimated net northward lonshore sediment transport in the area to prevent the formation of a bar across the entrance. However, historical analysis of survey data has shown an ongoing growth of the ebb-tidal delta at the river mouth. Thus, despite the sand bypassing system, costly dredging of the ebb-tidal delta is required to maintain safe navigation through the entrance. A number of studies have been undertaken to investigate sediment transport and hence morphological evolution. However, despite all the previous efforts, the cause of the ongoing ebb-tidal delta accretion is still not known with any degree of certainty. According to recent numerical modeling efforts, there is a considerable amount of longshore sediment transport leakage past the sand bypassing system, particularly during storm events. This paper will present a brief history of the dynamics of the Nerang River entrance since the early 1820s before reviewing historical sand volume analysis based on available survey data. An updated conceptual model will then be developed in order to better understand the morphological change in and around the Nerang River entrance area.

Aniśkiewicz, P.; Benedyczak, R.; Furmańczyk K., and Andrzejewski P., C.S., 2016. Validation of Empirical Wave Run-up Formulas to the Polish Baltic Sea Coast. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 243–247. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The empirical wave run-up formulas were adapted in previous researches by many authors. One of them adapted the formula for dynamic Polish Baltic Sea coast (Paprotny et al., 2014). In the present paper the available formulas were validated using the camera images and measurements made by GPS RTK along the profile located in Dziwnówek during calm weather conditions. The experiment was carried out in Dziwnówek from June 1^st to August 31^st 2014. The range of water level was varied from −0.25 to 0.44 m above average sea level elevation from real sea level elevation data from Institute of Meteorology and Water Management and about −0.405 to 0.402 above average sea level elevation from hydrodynamic model M3D. The results of wave run-up with a 2% probability of occurrence were created using real and modelled elevation data to compare results. Significant wave height was about 0.01–1.61 m and peak wave period varied from 2.01 to 8.39 seconds. The camera provides images during the 15 minutes events in every hour sampled at 1 Hz. The highest wave run-up was identified along the profile in every available picture. Data from camera were compared with modelled range of beach inundation. The research was done in the framework of SatBałtyk project. The number of project is: POIG.01.01.02-22-011/09.

Jeong, S.H.; Khim, B.K..; Jo, Y.H., Kim, B.O., Lee, S.H. and Park, K.S., 2016. Shoreline change rate of the barrier islands in Nakdong River Estuary over the southern part of Korea. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 248–252. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Shoreline data of the barrier islands in the Nakdong River Estuary in Korea for the last three decades were assembled using six sets of aerial photographs and seven sets of satellite images. Canny Algorithm was applied to untreated data in order to obtain a wet-dry boundary as a proxy shoreline. Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS 4.0) was used to estimate the rate of shoreline changes in terms of three statistical variables; End Point Rate (EPR), Linear Regression Rate (LRR) and Least Median of Squares (LMS). Based on Digital Shoreline Analysis, shoreline changes in the barrier islands in the Nakdong River Estuary have varied both temporally and spatially, although the exact reason for the shoreline changes requires more investigation.

Lowe, M.K. and Kennedy, D.M., 2016. Stability of artificial beaches in Port Phillip Bay, Victoria, Australia. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 253–257. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

This study investigates the drivers of beach morphodynamics on the highly modified fetch-limited beaches of the urbanised north-eastern coast of Port Phillip Bay in south-eastern Australia. Repetitive beach profiling, sediment characterization, and aerial photo analysis were conducted to quantify morphodynamic change across six distinct beach systems on a seasonal to annual-decadal scale. The observed morphologies contained features similar to those found on open-ocean wave-dominated and tide-dominated beaches, and included reflective unbarred beaches and intermediate beaches with low-tide terraces or transverse bar-rip systems. Sediment typically ranged from medium to coarse or very coarse in size. The consistency of wave energy across the study sites suggests that sediment size is the primary determinant of beach morphodynamic state, and the relatively low energy of Port Phillip Bay suggests that only storm conditions are energetic enough to mobilise sediment and alter beach morphology. On a seasonal scale, alongshore sediment transport is a major driver of beach change, and groynes and other coastal modifications have considerable influence on planform beach morphology. Over the medium term it appears that these beaches are eroding towards a landward position of equilibrium. With current projections of sea level rise it is expected that rates of beach erosion and sediment loss will accelerate over the coming decades, leading to an increased necessity for beach renourishment or other management interventions if wide beach profiles are to be maintained.

Morio, O. Sedrati, M., Goubert, E., Floc'h F., Furgerot L., and Garlan, T., 2016. Morphodynamic of a sandy-muddy macrotidal estuarine beach under contrasted energy conditions (Vilaine estuary, France). In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 75, pp. 258–262. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208

Estuarine and bay beaches are important areas for human activities. These beaches are variably affected by tides, waves, and winds that can commonly generate marked topographic and sedimentological contrasts. Betahon beach (South Brittany, France) is an intermediate-type beach exhibiting a low-tide terrace linked to a steeply sloping gravelly-sandy upper foreshore, and separated by a shore-parallel bluff from a mudflat on the lower foreshore. The beach exhibits linear ridge and runnel (R-R) bedforms perpendicular to the shoreline. Seasonal monitoring of the beach shows mudflat accretion by fluid mud deposition and erosion of R-R bedforms. A core obtained from the mudflat shows alternations of mud and sand. In order to understand the cross-shore dynamics of the beach, topographic surveys and wave and current monitoring were carried out during two contrasting energy conditions. Bed return flows occurred during high-energy events, inducing an infill of runnels by non-cohesive fine sediments and coarser sediments from the reflective upper beach. During low-energy conditions, a longshore flow channel was identified between the shore-parallel low-tide terrace bluff and the mudflat. Throughout the tide, on-shore currents prevailed over the mudflat, inducing the filling of runnels and the base of the bluff with fluid mud.

Thuan, D.H.; Binh, L.T;Viet, N.T.; Hanh, K.D.; Almar, R., and Marchesiello, P., 2016. Typhoon impact and recovery from continuous video monitoring: a case study from Nha Trang beach, Vietnam. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 263–267. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Nha Trang beach in Vietnam is regarded as one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. However, its degradation in recent years is a serious problem for its economic development. Understanding the mechanisms of shoreline evolution is thus part of an integrated management strategy of the area. In this study, the evolution of Nha Trang shoreline is investigated in detail with a high resolution (2Mp) and high frequency (2Hz) video camera system installed from May 2013 to present. The surfzone cross-shore profiles, shoreline positions and wave characteristics (height and period) extracted from the video data are calibrated with in-situ measurement from two field experiments (from 23/05 to 01/06 and 03/12 to 10/12 2013) and bathymetry measurement during the Haiyan typhoon event. The study shows a marked seasonal evolution of the Nha Trang shoreline with accretion from March to September and cumulated seasonal amplitude of about 15 m. The impact of Nari and Haiyan typhoons to the shoreline is also dramatic with changes of 4 to 8 m in each case. The recovery to individual events is fast, of the order of one and half month.

Buckley, E.C.B.; Hilton, M.J., Konlechner, T.M., and Lord, J.M., 2016. Downwind sedimentation and habitat development following Ammophila arenaria removal and dune erosion, Mason Bay, New Zealand. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 268–272. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Since 2002 Ammophila arenaria has been progressively eradicated from a section of the transgressive dune system at Mason Bay, New Zealand to restore dune mobility. This study examines whether sand released from the treatment areas is accumulating in down-wind dune environments, particularly stony deflation surfaces. Deflation surfaces are nationally threatened habitats that contain at-risk native plants and are important flocking sites for endangered shore birds. Sand accumulation in the stonefield may cause a shift in texture and character from deflation lag to sand dunes, potentially reducing habitat for these species. Sediment accumulation was examined over a nine month period within a 200m × 50m plot located immediately downwind of a series of long-walled parabolic dunes, recently destabilised by A. arenaria removal. Sand accumulation was monitored using 500 erosion pins. Digital elevation models were derived from two total station surveys to determine whether sand is accumulating in conjunction with Ficinia spiralis nebkha. Wind speed and direction were measured during wind events to determine whether sand is deposited during these events or whether sand passes through. The surface of the study area accreted 3.22mm, on average, during the study. Accretion and erosion was not strongly correlated with vegetation cover. The intensity of aeolian sedimentation appears to increase with increasing distance inland, because the study site increases in elevation and exposure further inland. Sand pits dug across the area showed medium term sand accumulation aross the study site with most of the accumulation closer to the eroding depositional lobes.

Dillenburg, S.; Hesp, P.; Cecílio, R., and Miot da Silva, G., 2016. Wave Energy as a Control on Dune Development on two Regressive Barriers in Southern Brazil. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 273–277. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Two regressive barriers (Cassino and Curumim) were developed during the middle and late Holocene along gentle re-entrants of the Rio Grande do Sul coast, and they have prograded up to 17 km and 5 km, respectively. While Cassino is marked by a surface morphology characterised predominantly by foredune ridges, Curumim displays a surface completely covered by widely spaced ridges, corresponding to phases of transgressive dunefield formation. As wave period and shoreline orientation are very similar for both barriers, and considering that they are subjected to the same deepwater wave climate, the substantial surface morphological differences between the barriers is, at least in part, a direct consequence of variations in wave height at the two sites. In addition, there is a significant difference in potential sand transport and wind power between the two sites. As transgressive dunefields and parabolic dunes can develop as a consequence of foredune destabilization, followed by wind action, it is very possible that at Cassino, during barrier development storm waves were not strong enough to destabilised the foredune system and, in addition, if storm scarping occurred, winds were not competent to destabilise the foredunes, thus providing conditions for the formation predominantly of a foredune ridge plain. Only occasionally, presumably during very strong storms (or multiples thereof), foredune destabilization has resulted in dune transgression. At Curumim, either storm waves and higher wind strengths were more effective in dune destabilization, or foredunes rarely developed allowing the formation of multiple phases of transgressive dunefields during barrier progradation.

Fernandez, G.B.; Figueiredo, M.S.; Rocha. T.B.; Maluf, V.B.; Martins, C., and Moulton, M.B.A., 2016. Foredunes Morphological Changes by Offshore Winds Revealed By Ground-Penetrating Radar: Massambaba Beach – Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 278–282. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Foredunes are usually formed under particular conditions, more common from onshore winds and available medium to fine sediments coming from the beach, with the vegetation playing an important role fixing this material. In some specific conditions, foredunes can be observed in areas with prevalent offshore winds. Massambaba beach is 54 km long and orientated in east-west direction. This beach is under action of prevalent northeast winds (offshore) and storm surges frequently formed by south to southwest winds and high-energy waves. At the east side of Massambaba beach, storm surges are responsible for overwash processes that deposit sediments in the back dunes. These deposits are reworked by offshore winds and represent the main sediment source for the foredunes. In these specific environmental conditions, the objective of this work is investigate morphological aspects and sedimentary architecture of the foredunes at east Massambaba beach. For this purpose, 3D morphological representations were made using DGPS and sedimentary architecture was identified by use of ground-penetrating radar. The 3D morphological representations revealed susceptible areas to washover processes and aeolian morphological impact. The sedimentary architecture observed shows six radarfacies. The following structures stood out: an onshore structure (f1c – avalanche deposits) associated with storm conditions, an offshore structure (f1d – aeolian cross-bedding) associated with the action of offshore winds and another offshore structure at the top of one of the radar profiles (f1e – parabolic migration deposits) that reveals recent movement of sediments. The applied methods allowed the identification of morphologic characteristics and similarities and differences in the sedimentary architecture.

Hanlon, L.M.; Abbott, L.K., and Kennedy, D.M., 2016. Coastal mycology and invasive species: Boundary conditions for arbuscular mycorrhizal (AM) fungi in incipient sand dunes. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 283-287. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Arbuscular mycorrhizal (AM) fungi are ubiquitous in soil, and are associated with some 90% of terrestrial vascular plants, aiding plants to access water and nutrients the plant roots alone cannot, in exchange for photosynthates from their host. AM fungi were first found in the dune system in the 1960s, and many of the described species have been found in dune ecosystems, where they form symbiotic associations with psammophilic plants including dune grasses. The ephemeral environment of incipient sand dunes prevents long-term colonization by plants, and little research has been undertaken to examine the contribution of AM fungi to plant survival in the disturbed environment of incipient sand dunes, or what role, if any, they play in exotic plant species outcompeting native species. A first step to understanding these roles is to examine the edaphic and biological conditions of incipient dunes. Our findings quantify the boundary conditions that surround and support AM fungi and their host plant roots in incipient sand dunes on the southern coast of Victoria, and include the chemical and geomorphological characterizations of the dunes studied. We found the nutrient levels (TOC, P, and N) to be low, in contrast to the higher levels of N found on the Atlantic coast, and pH levels such that Al would be toxic for the majority of plants, whilst Fe is limited. Additionally, we found that the incipient dune sand was not saline, and that chemical characteristics between the toe and the crest of the incipient dune did not differ greatly.

Hesp, Patrick A.; Smyth, Thomas A.G.; Walker, Ian J.; Gares, Paul A., and Wasklewisz, Thad, 2016. Flow within a trough blowout at Cape Cod. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 288–292. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The Province Lands dunefield at Cape Cod is characterised by large parabolic dunes on which have developed very significant numbers of active saucer and bowl blowouts. Blowouts occur across the entire dune landscape but many are initiated on the high lee margins of large erosional ridges and bowl blowouts within the larger parabolic dune landscape. Evolution of these blowouts is characterised by multiple stages. The first few evolutionary stages are described. In addition, the aerodynamics and flow structure within a trough blowout and former saucer blowout developed within a high ridge crest is elucidated from 2D sonic anemometer data, smoke bombs and videography. The flow is characterised by decreasing then increasing flow up the blowout centreline, and marked, highly turbulent opposed flow separation immediately inside and around the marginal entrance walls of the blowout.

Hilton, M.J.; Hatcher, S.V.; Wakes, S.J., and Konlechner, T.M., 2016. Flow Deflection and Deceleration Across a Simple Foredune. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 293–297. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

There are few field observations of flow deflection across foredunes in a range of incident wind conditions. This study reports observations of (1) flow deflection across the seaward slope of a foredune during alongshore and oblique onshore incident winds; and (2) associated sand transport. We compare these with modelled results from Hesp et al. (2015). Sonic anemometers and sand traps were deployed along a transect across a simple foredune at St. Kilda Beach, Dunedin, New Zealand. Representative sections of each record were isolated for a range of incident wind directions, and for each section we determined flow deflection and relative change in wind velocity. The incident winds, observed on a 3m mast on the beach, ranged from 228° (35° oblique onshore) to 268° (5° oblique offshore) and 6 – 14 ms⁻¹ mean wind speed (over 5–15 minute intervals). Gusts reached 28 ms⁻¹. Onshore deflection varied between 19° and 23° for incident winds between 228° and 249° and 9–14 ms⁻¹. Our results are only partly consistent with those of Hesp et al. (2015) for a similar foredune and similar strength winds. We also found deflection increases with increasing obliquity, the degree of deflection increases towards the crest, and that topographically-forced flow acceleration is strongly influenced by the angle of approach of the incident winds. In general, however, we measured more flow deflection than was modelled, including significant deflection for highly oblique winds. Relative wind velocity up the profile showed deceleration up-slope for all sections because the anemometers were placed within the vegetation.

Konlechner, T.M.; Buckley, E.C.B.; Hilton, M.J., and Wakes, S.J., 2016. Downwind dune dynamics following Ammophila arenaria invasion. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 298–302. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The growth of large foredunes following invasion by non-native plants has been linked to changes in beach-dune sediment transfers, and the deflected evolution of transgressive dune systems. These changes have the potential to alter downwind plant communities by modifying habitats. This paper describes changes to a transgressive dune system in southern New Zealand following invasion by Ammophila arenaria and associated foredune development. Landforms were mapped using aerial imagery from 1958, when A. arenaria was present but not dominant, through to 2013. The landscape downwind of the foredune has evolved from a sparsely vegetated, sandy landscape, dominated by nebkha, to a landscape containing well-defined, long-walled parabolic dunes and stony deflation surfaces. These changes are associated with an increase in deflation surface habitat and plant species diversity, and a corresponding loss of habitat for species associated with dunal areas. The area of deflation surface has increased 18% to 31% of the study area while dune areas decreased from 74% to 51%. These results indicate species associated with transgressive dune systems are sensitive to variations in sand supply and changes in this supply may occur over decadal scales. Land managers are now restoring beach-hinterland sand exchange by destabilizing the foredune and adjacent parabolic dunes to encourage sand drift inland.

Martínez, M.L.; Silva, R.; Mendoza, E.; Odériz, I., and Pérez-Maqueo, O.M., 2016. Coastal dunes and plants: an ecosystem-based alternative to reduce dune face erosion.. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 303–307. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Future scenarios indicate that growing human encroachment on coasts, more frequent and stronger storms and sea level rise will result in worsening coastal squeeze. In consequence, human lives, property and infrastructure, as well as ecosystem services, will increasingly be threatened. It is therefore vital to find the means to maintain or increase the resilience and resistance of coastal zones. As an alternative to hard infrastructure, ecosystem-based coastal defense strategies have been recommended as better and more sustainable solutions. Thus, the goal of this study was to understand the interaction of dune plants with waves, dunes and humans. We used a pantropical beach plant (Ipomoea pes-caprae).and performed 24 wave flume experiments with two beach-dune profiles, four densities of vegetation cover, and three storm regimes. We also tested tolerance to burial in seed germination and seedling growth and finally explored the impact of tourism on Ipomoea. Erosion regimes of collision and overwash were observed in the dune profiles with a berm, whereas swash and overwash regimes were observed when no berm was present. Plant cover prevented overwash and thereby erosion of the landward side of the dune. Positive responses in seeds and seedlings of Ipomoea to burial by sand enable this plant to act as a dune builder. In conditions with low tourism, Ipomoea seems to be more affected by seasonal and meteorological conditions than by trampling. These responses increase further the potential for coastal protection of Ipomoea and, thus, such an ecosystem-based protective structure can be self-sustainable.

Miot da Silva, G. and Shulmeister, J., 2016. A review of coastal dunefield evolution in Southeastern Queensland. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 308–312. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The Southern Queensland subtropical coastline represents a major depositional system containing 3 of the largest sand islands in the world. The surface of these sand masses comprises foredune ridges and predominantly large transgressive dunefields, deposited episodically during the Quaternary. The chronological sequence of these dunefield phases, however, is still poorly understood. This paper summarizes the information available regarding dunefield transgression events on the southern coast of Queensland and indicates that both marine and climate effects are important controlling factors for dunefield evolution but that an understanding of the relative thresholds of each factor as the main trigger of dune emplacement phases remains a challenge.

Mir-Gual, M. and Pons, G.X. 2016. The presence of foredune strip as key factor for the integral beach-dune system conservation. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 313–317. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Most studies of sedimentary coastal systems analyse the agents and factors participating in its formation. However, there is less information about the behaviour of these systems once they are formed, about their erosion and sedimentation processes, and about their evolution patterns. In coastal areas such as Balearic Islands, the erosion processes on emerged beaches can suppose negative effects for the main economic activity of beach and sun tourism. With this scenario, and from the results obtained through a PhD thesis, this work aims to show the importance that a well preserved first line dune has for the conservation state of the whole dune system. The results obtained from several field experiments carried out through anemometry data and sand transport measurements show how the presence of a well-preserved foredune is a key factor for the conservation of the associated dune complex. Airflow modelling and sand traps measurements show how the foredune increases the surface rugosity, decreasing wind speed and an increasing sedimentation rates, helping diminish the erosion patterns from the emerged beach to the innermost of the dune complex. Our research will help to improve the future management plans, and keep positive sedimentary balances on emerged beaches.

Oliver, T.S.N., and Woodroffe, C.D., 2016. Chronology, Morphology and GPR-imaged Internal Structure of the Callala Beach Prograded Barrier in Southeastern Australia. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 318–322. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Holocene prograded coastal barriers, comprising a sequence of relict foredune ridges, are depositional environments, which have been used to reconstruct coastal processes. Such reconstructions benefit from new techniques and technologies now available in coastal studies. This study investigated the Callala Beach prograded barrier deposit situated within Jervis Bay on the NSW south coast. This prograded barrier, composed of a series of low-relief, shore-parallel ridges, formed after sea level stabilised on this coastline in the mid Holocene. The approach involved analysis of Light Detection and Ranging (LiDAR) topographic data, ground-penetrating radar (GPR) collection and processing, and dating of ridge deposits using the optically-stimulated luminescence (OSL) dating technique. These data sets demonstrate that the most landward ridge of the Callala Beach barrier was deposited ∼7500 years ago, closely aligning with the best estimates for the timing of sea-level stabilisation in southeastern Australia. Progradation continued throughout the late Holocene at a steady rate of ∼0.1 m/yr until near the present time, as shown by an age of ∼400 years immediately behind the modern foredune. GPR-imaged subsurface structures captured the beachface and dune facies; a regular series of reflectors indicated incremental accumulations of sediment over the late Holocene. Volumes of sand accumulated during barrier growth indicated an average sediment supply for the entire embayment of ∼1600 m³/yr or ∼0.3 m³/yr per metre of beach. The long term trend of sediment supply has implications for coastal management as the local council is commencing a beach nourishment program at Callala Beach.

Rockett, G.C.; Barboza, E.G., and Rosa, M.L.C.C. 2016. Ground Penetrating Radar applied to the characterization of the Itapeva Dunefield, Torres, Brazil. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 323–327. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Subsurface data obtained from Ground Penetrating Radar (GPR) have been used in studies in various coastal plain environments. GPR applied to dune characterization and stratigraphy is well described in the literature, and enables the distinction between different depositional patterns and their delimitation. This study aimed to characterize the stratigraphy of the Itapeva dunefield, located at the municipality of Torres, north of the Rio Grande do Sul (Brasil) coastal plain, using subsurface data. This dunefield contains aeolian forms that differ from other dunefields in Rio Grande do Sul: namely, reversing dunes. The 150 and 400 MHz frequency antennas were used to collect subsurface data in dunes located in the central portion of the dunefield, with a linked GNSS system to obtain positional data. GPR data were processed, and the geospatial data were integrated to satellite images in a geographic information system. Results show that at least two different dune packages are present in the Itapeva dunefield, indicating two different depositional phases.

Smyth, T.A.G. and Hesp, Patrick A., 2016. Numerical Modelling of Turbulent Flow Structures in a Blowout. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 328–332. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Blowouts are erosional landforms often formed on coastal sand dunes by the deflation of sediment by wind flow. Quantitative observations of wind flow within blowouts aided by the deployment of smoke-bombs, have noted that temporal and spatial variations in sediment transport occur with the presence of turbulent flow structures. However because of the discrete nature of anemometry data, the presence of flow structures has been difficult to quantify and our understanding remains largely conceptual. This study presents a detailed investigation of turbulent flow structures within a trough blowout using high resolution, three-dimensional computational fluid dynamic modelling. We show that when incident wind flow was parallel to the blowout axis, only limited flow steering took place but a well-defined near surface jet developed along the deflation basin. Conversely when incident wind flow was oblique to the axis of the blowout wind flow became steered along the axis of the blowout but no near surface jet was produced. During neither incident wind direction were corkscrew or helicoidal vortices produced. Our study concludes that the incident wind flow direction is critical to the effectiveness of a trough blowout as a corridor for wind-blown sediment. While wind from a range of oblique angles may be steered along the axis of blowout, its relative effectiveness of eroding and transporting sediment beyond the deflation basin and erosional walls is much reduced compared to axis parallel wind flows of the same incident wind speed.

Udo, K., 2016. Wind Turbulence Effects on Dune Sand Transport. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 333–337. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

This study involved field experiment of instantaneous wind velocity, angle, and aeolian sand flux on a coastal dune and numerical simulation of spatial wind fields to analyze the effects of wind turbulence on aeolian sand transport. The field data demonstrate that horizontal turbulence intensity is approximated by a power equation of mean horizontal wind velocity and has a negative relationship with the mean wind velocity in various wind conditions. Horizontal turbulence intensity also has a negative relationship with the aeolian sand flux in various wind conditions, indicating the potential for introducing the turbulence intensity into the aeolian sand transport equation. The wind field simulated with a large eddy simulation (LES) model has reasonable wind characteristics consistent with ground elevation change measured in the field. However, results indicate accurate simulation of vertical wind velocity and both horizontal and vertical turbulence intensity is a great challenge compared to simulation of horizontal velocity.

Van der Weerd, A.J. and Wijnberg, K.M., 2016. Aeolian sediment flux derived from a natural sand trap. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 338–342. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

In 2011, a mega-nourishment (the ‘Sand Motor’) was constructed along the Dutch Coast. Since it is a pilot project, its evolution is closely monitored. This paper presents first results on the temporal variation in aeolian sediment transport across the nourishment, based on (a) the rate of infill over a 4 year period of a small lake in the nourishment, (b) one year of semi-hourly collected video imagery and (c) four year of hourly-averaged wind data. It appeared that, apart from approximately the first half year, the infill occurred quite linearly over time at an average rate of about 1.9·10⁴ m³/yr. The rate of infill in the first half year period was equivalent to an annual rate of 8.4·10⁴ m³/yr. From the combination of video image data and wind data, it was derived that aeolian sand transport (by saltation) was only observed at hourly averaged wind speeds of at least 7 m/s. The monthly frequency of occurrence of above 7 m/s wind speed, was reasonably well correlated with monthly frequency of occurrence of aeolian transport (r=0.79). Nevertheless, when hourly wind speed exceeded 7 m/s, transport was only observed about 23% of the time, indicating the importance of supply limiting conditions for aeolian transport from the Sand Motor.

Wakes, S.J.; Hilton, M.J., and Konlechner, T., 2016. Topographic steering of oblique incident winds across a foredune-parabolic topography, Mason Bay, Stewart Island, New Zealand. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 343–347. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Climate change modelling predicts increased westerly winds across southern New Zealand, with incident winds becoming more oblique on many beaches. Of interest is the effect these increasingly oblique winds will have on beach-foredune sand flux and dune morphodynamics. We need to model wind flows over these dunes in order to understand these potential changes. Mason Bay, Stewart Island, New Zealand experiences a range of incident winds, from southwest to northwest and, therefore, provides opportunities to both model and verify topographic steering. The dune systems comprise of a large, topographically simple (Type I) foredune, backed by long-walled, discrete parabolic dunes. We use Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) to predict the behaviour of winds of a range of obliquities and infer sediment flow over coastal dunes. The wind steering across the dune system is also be explored through the numerical modelling. Results of modelling wind flow from a range of incident wind directions and boundary conditions are presented. The results indicate that oblique incident winds are topographically steered shore-normal across the foredune and inland parabolic dunes topographies. Future changes in wind direction might, therefore, have significantly greater implications for foredune development compared with hinterland dunes.

Almar, R.; Almeida, P.; Blenkinsopp, C., and Catalan, P., 2016. Surf-swash interactions on a low-tide terraced beach. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 348-352. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Through an integrated approach, this paper investigates the role of coupled surf-swash dynamics on outgoing waves using data collected at a low-tide terraced beach, Grand Popo, Benin (Gulf of Guinea, West Africa). Observed reflection is 8 %. Analyses are conducted from deep water directional wave spectra measurements, daily beach surveys and remote video measurements. Our results show that the swash can be a non-negligible component of the nearshore energy balance (14% of total dissipation) and is closely tied to reflection. Reflection thus depends on waves at swash inception (offshore waves and surf zone saturation), and shoreface slope varying with tide and morphological evolution. An outgoing cut-off frequency (shortest reflected waves) can be linked to swash saturation with a strong dependence on shoreface slope. A phase-resolving Boussinesq model was validated and used to investigate the influence of terrace width, upper shoreface slope and tidal elevation over the terrace. This papers puts forward the role of the coupled system surf-swash and underlines potential key interactions between a rapid shoreface evolution and surf zone hydro-morphodynamics.

Biausque, M.; Senechal, N.; Blossier, B., and Bryan, K.R., 2016. Seasonal variations in recovery timescales of shoreline change on an embayed beach, Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 353–357. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Video images acquired during ten years (from January 1999 until June 2009) were analyzed to study cross-shore and alongshore variability of the shoreline on an embayed beach at Tairua Beach (New Zealand). Cross-shore landward migrations occur not only due to high energetic events (such as storms), but are a result of a mix of different parameters. In particular the shoreline of embayed beaches experiences rotation events during which opposite accretion and erosion patterns are observed at the extremities of the beach. When the beach is in an unrotated state, the erosion of the shore is accentuated. The notion of dynamic equilibrium between morphology and wave energy is common approach to understanding the drivers of such shoreline variations. Therefore, to quantify erosion and accretion rates, we used an empirical shoreline prediction model. In this application of the model, we showed that seasonality exists in these rates, between austral summer and winter. The difference in these rates could be because of the influence of the beach rotation on recovery periods. Indeed, the winter beach is generally in a more rotated state than the summer beach.

Bock, A.; Phillips, M.R., and Woehler, E., 2016. The role of beach and wave characteristics in determining suitable habitat for three resident shorebird species in Tasmania. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 358–362. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Beaches are connections between marine and terrestrial environments, and as they are highly dynamic, they demand adaptation and flexibility by inhabitant species. Along Tasmania's beaches and coastline, resident shorebirds have acclimatised and become year-around stationary territory holders. This life strategy requires an environment and territory that offers all necessary resources, all year around and for every life stage. Consequently, this study investigated not only the habitat use of three resident shorebird species and related Tasmanian beach types, but moreover assessed the habitat use in relation to the different abiotic characteristics and environmental conditions. This was achieved by combining and merging datasets from four different sources. Results revealed significant differences in the role and importance of beach characteristics and environmental factors among the three species, i.e. surf zone width appeared to be highly significant and significant for Pied Oystercatchers and Hooded Plovers respectively, whilst mean annual wind speed was highly significant for Hooded and Red-capped Plovers, but not Pied Oystercatchers. Other beach attributes such as mean beach width and swash gradient appeared to be significant for Pied Oystercatchers and Red-capped Plovers respectively. Also significance of wave variables differed amongst the three species: mean annual significant wave height for Red-capped Plovers; maximum significant wave height for Hooded Plovers; and mean annual wave period for Pied Oystercatchers. With regards to sea level rise and potential habitat loss, research findings will underpin the development of future beach management strategies, by integrating social, economic and conservation interests.

Dolphin, T.; Lee, J.; Phillips, R.; Taylor, C.J.L., and Dyer, K., 2016. Velocity of RFID tagged gravel in a nonuniform longshore transport system. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 363–367. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Radio-frequency Identification (RFID) tags were embedded into 940 native beach gravel particles and deployed at source on Benhole Beach (Somerset, UK) to develop an understanding of gravel transport along a frontage that is likely to be subjected to construction activity associated with the proposed development of the Hinkley Point C power station. The study lasted for three years, the longest of its kind to be published, and maintained high detection rates (78% on completion) typical of RFID experiments. Tracer distribution through time highlighted non-uniformity in the longshore transport system and that a single average or centroid velocity is meaningless, as it cannot account for alongshore variability – instead methods that can account for alongshore variability in the transport system were needed. Spatial patterns in the density of detected tracer revealed transport pathways. Alongshore variation in tracer velocity was linked to changes in the geomorphology: (i) tracer velocity was slowest over beaches, owing to increased surface roughness, burial and deposition at high elevations; (ii) velocity rose/fell with changes in coastline orientation and wave obliquity; and (iii) the highest velocities were found in areas of exposed smooth rock platform; however small ridges (up to 40 cm) in the rock platform and angular blocks derived from cliff and platform erosion led to significant reductions.

Dougherty, A.J.; Choi, J-H., and Dosseto, A., 2016. Prograded Barriers GPR OSL = Insight on coastal change over intermediate spatial and temporal scales. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 368–372. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Sea level is predicted to rise ∼1m by the next century but the response of sandy shorelines is unknown. Understanding past centennial-scale coastal change is crucial to forecast erosion and prepare vulnerable communities/infrastructure for the impact of climate change. To predict intermediate-scale shoreline behavior, models of short-term morphodynamics along beaches and longer-term coastal landscape evolution are integrated. However, limitations exist as process-based engineering models depend on wave climate and beach profile data restricted to historical records (decadal at best), while large-scale coastal behavior models are based on general stratigraphic data inferring evolutionary trends over millennia. Detailing the stratigraphy of paleo-beachfaces preserved beneath Holocene beach ridges, and accurately dating them, could fill this gap by allowing short-term records of present-day beach morphodynamics to be extended over hundreds and thousands of years. This paper aims to demonstrate how using Ground-Penetrating Radar (GPR) and Optically Stimulated Luminescence (OSL) on prograded barriers can achieve this. To illustrate the potential of these methods, decades of research from strandplains in North America, New Zealand and Australia are synthesized to show how: 1) mapping the geometry of paleo-beachfaces can provide Holocene storm records, 2) digitizing the height of paleo-beachfaces could reconstruct sea-level curves, and 3) calculating barrier lithesome area/volume will quantify sediment supply with respect to accommodation space. Storms, sea level, and sediment supply are essential components determining beach behavior; this proposed methodology can yield empirical data on these mechanisms over the centennial-scale providing insight, and input to models, critical for protecting coasts threatened by global warming.

Floc'h, F.; Le Dantec, N.; Lemos, C.; Concouët, R.; Sous, D.; Petitjean, L.; Bouchette, F.; Ardhuin, F; Suanez, S., and Delacourt, C., 2016. Morphological Response of a Macrotidal Embayed Beach, Porsmilin, France. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 373–377. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Morphodynamics of sandy, macrotidal, embayed beaches is complex because of the numerous physical processes interacting at the same location over a wide range of temporal scales. As most of these processes are controlled by beach morphology, dynamic feedbacks are generally observed between hydro- and morphodynamics. Investigating short-term processes is essential in order to improve long term morphological prediction. A key question is to understand how beach slope reacts to forcing conditions, in particular the response time of the beach profile, how long the transient state lasts. This study deals with the spatial and temporal responses of beach morphology to varying incident conditions. Here we report main observations, preliminary results and on-going investigations on the DYNATREZ1 field campaign, which was conducted in the framework of the National Observation Service Dynalit. Beach profiles are shown to adapt rapidly to forcing conditions, within two days, with more intense variations observed in the high tide swash zone. The presence of infragravity waves and their dissipation on the beach is highlighted. It is likely that the very large variability in beach slope observed over a single neap-spring cycle is responsible for the accordingly large variability in wave skewness, asymmetry and breaking processes, and thus in sediment fluxes and morphological changes.

Gallop, S.L.; Bryan, K.R.; Pitman, S.J.; Ranasinghe, R., and Sandwell, D., 2016. Pulsations in surf zone currents on a high energy mesotidal beach in New Zealand. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 378–382. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The exchange of material between the surf zone and continental shelf can be driven by pulsations in rip current velocities. However, there is a poor understanding of the relationship of these pulsations to surf zone morphology and material exchange. Moreover, understanding of rip current dynamics has focused mainly on single-barred beaches in an intermediate state, and there have been few studies on high energy beaches. Therefore, this paper undertakes preliminary research on surf zone current velocity pulsations, on a high energy beach in New Zealand. This initial analysis presents results from two days of measurements using Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters and Lagrangian GPS drifters. Drifters revealed pulsations in current velocities on the order of ∼0.5–2 m s⁻¹ throughout the surf zone, whether inside a rip current circulation cell or not. More infragravity wave energy was associated with constant pulsations in current velocity, and lower infragravity energy with pulsation bursts, lasting 5–10 minutes, interspersed with periods of relatively constant velocity lasting 15–25 minutes. However, higher wave conditions also reduced the exit rate from the surf zone.

Gorayeb, A.; Mendes, J.S.; Meireles, A.J.A.; Silva, E.V.; Brannstrom, C., and Freitas, A.L.R. 2016. Wind-energy development causes social impacts in coastal Ceará state, Brazil: The case of the Xavier community. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 383–387. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

A significant increase in wind-power generation has occurred since 2008 in coastal regions of northeastern Brazil. Many wind farms have been erected on territories claimed by traditional communities, which have suffered changes in how they obtain resources as a consequence. Here we study the Xavier community, a settlement of 20 families and 66 people, located in the Camocim municipality of Ceará state. Xavier residents subsist on extractive activities such artisanal (non-mechanized) fishing, shellfish collection, and crop cultivation. But in 2009 one of Ceará's largest wind farms was established approximately 200 meters from the settlement. Although some may see these projects as low impact, wind farms in Ceará are being implemented in areas that are environmentally unstable, located within territories claimed by traditional communities, negatively affecting their livelihoods. This paper analyzes the social impacts caused by the establishment of the wind farm through participant observation, group workshops, and analysis of textual materials. Several problems are described, including the absence of basic infrastructure and employment; road blockages; privatization of common resources; noise from turbines; constant fear of accidents involving turbines; internal conflicts among Xavier residents caused after the implementation of the wind farm; and burial of lakes. Wind-farm construction negatively influenced this traditional community by threatening territory, cultural traditions, and food security.

Harley, M.D.; Turner, I.L.; Splinter, K.D.; Phillips, M.S., and Simmons, J.A., 2016. Beach response to Australian East Coast Lows: a comparison between the 2007 and 2015 events, Narrabeen-Collaroy Beach. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 388–392. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

East Coast Lows (ECLs) are intense extratropical cyclones that form off the east Australian coastline and are known to cause significant beach erosion. This study presents analysis of the beach response to two severe ECLs that occurred in the Sydney region in June 2007 and April 2015 based on a three-dimensional coastal monitoring program undertaken at Narrabeen-Collaroy Beach. The results indicate considerable reductions in the subaerial sand volume for both storms, with an average (maximum) reduction of 78 m³ (124 m³) per alongshore meter for the 2007 event and 58 m³ (104 m³) per alongshore meter for the 2015 event. The overwhelming majority (93%) of subaerial beach erosion for both storms was observed to be within the berm section of the beach profile. Further analysis into the alongshore variability of cross-shore beach response reveals that the enhanced erosion during the 2007 event was mainly concentrated in the mid to northern sections of the embayment. It was found that this enhanced erosion was predominantly a result of a greater berm volume in this section of the embayment prior to storm arrival and that berm response to these two events was very similar (R² = 0.81) when considering erosion as a percentage of the pre-storm berm volume. It is concluded that the berm reduction as a percentage of the pre-storm berm volume can potentially provide a suitable predictor for the beach response to severe ECLs within littoral cells along this coastline.

Huguet, J.-R.; Castelle, B.; Marieu, V.; Morichon, D., and de Santiago, I., 2016. Shoreline-sandbar dynamics at a high-energy embayed and structurally-engineered sandy beach: Anglet, SW France. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 393–397. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Anglet beach, Basque Coast (SW France), is a 4-km long embayment bounded by a prominent headland in the South and by the southern Adour River training wall in the North. The beach is structurally-engineered with, within the embayment, 6 groins and 3 distinct sectors where the beach is backed by a seawall. The beach is high-energy intermediate, mostly double-barred, composed of medium to coarse sand with a steep beach face (∼1/10). In January 2013, a video system was installed at the Southern end of Anglet beach at about 70 m above mean sea level to monitor about 2 km of the southern beach of Anglet that includes 4 groins extending about 100 m seaward and a 1-km seawall backing the beach. The study period includes the winter 2013/2014 that was outstanding in terms of the available energy arriving at the coast with a 2-month-averaged significant wave height peaking at 3.6 m. Despite the extreme storm wave conditions during the winter 2013/2014, the outer bar crescentic patterns maintained and even further developed. The beach eroded by O(10 m) and, surprisingly and in contrast with the nearby northern open beaches, they recovered to their pre-winter 2013/2014 state within only a few months. Overall, Anglet beach appears to respond predominantly at individual storm frequency rather than at seasonal timescales, with the groins and headland acting as major controlling boundaries influencing beach state and dictating rip channel locations.

Jeanson, M.; Etienne, S., and Collin, A., 2016. Wave attenuation and coastal protection by shelly ridges: Mont-Saint-Michel Bay, France. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 398–402. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The western part of Mont-Saint-Michel Bay (northwestern France), reputed for its high tidal range, is characterized by shelly ridges on the uppermost part of a macrotidal flat. Morphological monitoring and hydrodynamic measurements are undertaken since February 2015 with the aim of characterizing the role of the shelly ridges on wave dissipation and coastal protection. Each month, 11 topographic profiles are surveyed using a DGPS, as well as water levels and wave characteristics are measured using thirty miniature pressure sensors deployed in the tidal zone. Analysis of the collected data shows that wave characteristics were strongly influenced by water depth and ridge geometry. The incident waves measured on the lower part of tidal flats during experiments were predominantly wind-wave and swell, depending on meteorological conditions. At the back of the well-formed shelly ridges, residual waves were extremely low throughout with a dominance of infragravity frequencies. Calculations of energy dissipation indicated an energy reduction of 92% to 98 % as waves traveled across shelly ridge systems. In contrast, behind degraded or breached shelly ridges, waves were not so attenuated (reduction of 70% to 90%) and the spectral decomposition showed a mix between gravity and infragravity energy. These preliminary results show the role of the shelly ridges on wave attenuation and shoreline protection. Further measurements and stronger wave conditions are needed to strengthen the first observations.

Kim, K.H.; Shim, K.T., and Shin, B.S., 2016. Morphological Change near the Artificial Reefs as a Beach Erosion Countermeasure. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 403–407. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

At the Namhangjin Coast on the eastern coast of South Korea, there are five artificial reefs constructed as a form of countermeasure to prevent beach erosion. Since the construction, severe beach erosion has not occurred, and due to the presence of the artificial reefs various sedimentation effects have taken place. However, inside the opening gaps between the artificial reefs, the occurrences of return flow and severe scouring have been observed. In this field investigation the effects of one of the six artificial reefs, installed particularly for abalone, seaweed and fish farming, have been reviewed. Furthermore, the effects of the artificial reefs and their ensuing problems were investigated via three-dimensional movable-bed experiment. In the experiment, to improve the performance the artificial reefs, the impacts of raising the crown height and style of the reefs were examined. The numerical model has successfully explained the various implications of the three-dimensional experiment and the field investigation, and has confirmed the fact that there exists a shared agreement.

Marchesiello, P.; Almar; R.; Benshila; R.; Larnier, S.; Castelle, B., and McWilliams, J.C., 2016. Morphological Change near Artificial Reefs as a Beach Erosion Countermeasure. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). J. Coast. Res., Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 408–412. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The link between intrinsic shear-flow instability of longshore currents and their mean cross-shore profiles has long been suggested. Yet, recent investigations give increasing credit to extrinsic wave forcing mechanisms, downplaying the role of shear waves on the observed variability. Our results for Grand Popo beach, Benin, provide an original attempt to map mean longshore currents forced by an oblique swell. A 3D model investigation shows that their broad mean flow and the frequency band of eddy variability are consistent with shear instability, conversion of mean to eddy kinetic energy and eddy mixing of momentum. Their turbulent dynamics do not clearly fit in any classical 2D or 3D paradigms but show large transfer of energy across the wavenumber spectrum, to both larger and smaller scales.

Matos, J.B.; Oliveira, A.R.G.; Trindade, W.N.; Leite, N.R.; Koening, M.L.; Pereira, L.C.C., and Costa, R.M. da., 2016. Phytoplankton dynamics in three metropolitan beaches of the Amazon littoral (São Luís-Maranhão). In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 413–417. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The present study was based on a spatial-temporal analysis of the phytoplankton of three beaches in São Luís (Maranhão) with the aim of understanding the influence of the factors on the phytoplankton community. Samples were obtained in the dry season (December 2008 and October 2009) and the rainy season (March and June, 2009), and were collected using internationally standardized methods. Salinity was significantly higher during the dry season, while temperature, dissolved oxygen, pH, turbidity and dissolved nutrient concentrations (nitrate) were all significantly higher during the rainy season. Diatoms contributed to the high taxonomic richness observed at all the beaches. Total phytoplankton density and chlorophyll-a concentrations (20.9 mg.m⁻³; B1) were highest during the rainy months, with significantly higher densities being observed at B3 (1274.3 x 10³ cell.L⁻¹). The cluster analysis revealed the formation of two groups influenced by seasonality, reflecting the relative homogeneity of the beaches. The results indicate that the variation in the composition and density of the phytoplankton is determined by the high degree of interaction between the highly hydrodynamic characteristics typical of Amazonian environments and the local rainfall cycle, which modulates the other environmental variables, such as salinity and dissolved nutrient concentrations, thus affecting the dynamics of coastal phytoplankton communities. The strong antropogenic influence observed in these urban beaches (sewage effluent discharges) also interfered within the dynamics of local phytoplankton.

McCarroll, R.J.; Brander, R.W., and Turner, I.L., 2016. Bathymetric controls on very low frequency rip current motions. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 418-422. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Time-averaged mean rip currents are forced by persistent gradients in dissipation over shallow bars and deep rip channels. Time-variable horizontal surfzone eddies, at the ∼10 min or very low frequency (VLF) range, are forced by stochastic wave breaking injecting vortical energy into the surfzone. Previous observations note that deep channel rips have greater variability of velocity while shallow channel rips exhibit greater variability in trajectory, this suggests a continuum of flow states that at present are poorly understood. This paper investigates the degree of bathymetric control on VLF motions illustrating how VLF motions manifest on different morphologies. Three field sites are investigated using low-pass filtered: (i) mean velocity; (ii) variable eddy velocity; (iii) directional standard deviation; and (iv) instantaneous vorticity. A VLF flow-type parameter is introduced to differentiate flow regimes, based on degree of bathymetric control. A novel classification scheme is introduced: (i) strong bathymetric control, with high mean velocities and rip cell oscillation; (ii) moderate control, with high mean velocities and variable VLF trajectories; and (iii) weak control, with low mean velocities and mobile eddies. Level of bathymetric control may be related to channel orientation, in addition to relative depth. This study improves our understanding of rip flow variability over short times frames, with implications for sediment transport and beach safety.

Meirelles, S.; Henriquez, M.; Souza, A.J.; Horner-Devine, A.R.; Pietrzak, J.D.; Rijnsburg, S., and Stive, M.J.F., 2016. Small scale bedform types off the South Holland coast. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 423–426. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

This study presents the small scale bedform states found off the South-Holland coast during a 31 days field observation of seabed acoustic imagery and near the bed velocities. Six main bed states were encountered: current ripples (C), wave ripples (W), combined wave-current ripples (WC), current ripples with subordinate wave ripples (Cw), wave ripples with subordinate current ripples (Wc) and poorly developed ripples (P). Direct visual detection of the bed state from the images showed good agreement with a simple predictor based on the mobility number. The most frequent type of bedform was C which is governed by the tidal currents. Wave ripple prevailed only during a storm with waves higher than 2 m. The combined Cw, WC and Wc types comprised 22% of the occurrences. Poorly developed ripples were associated with the neap tide during fair weather conditions.

Nascimento, A. T. and Pereira, L.C.C., 2016. Morphodynamic Processes on a Macrotidal Beach in the eastern Amazon. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 427–431. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

This study analyzes the spatial and temporal variation in the morphodynamic processes and states of a macrotidal beach. Two intensive campaigns (9 days under spring/neap tide condition) were conducted to determine wave and weather conditions, in November/December 2013 (end of the dry season, characterized by strong winds) and March/April 2014 (rainy season, equinoctial period). Topographic surveys of two beach profiles were also conducted during the study period. Surface sediment samples were collected along each beach profile. Sediment grain sizes were later determined by laser diffraction. Ajuruteua is a sandy beach characterized by macrotides (up to 6.0 m), moderate wave energy (H_s of as much as 2.0 m), and strong winds (mean velocities of up to 4.5 m s⁻¹). The beach is sheltered from waves by sandbanks and sandbars around low tide during both neap and spring tides. This results in a delay in the flood tide in the inshore areas, resulting in the prolongation of the ebb tides, primarily during the equinoctial period. During this period, modal breaker heights on Ajuruteua beach were minimal (H_b < 0.2), which, due to the longer ebb tides, combined with the higher tidal range, resulted in a scenario of tide-dominated tidal flats. By contrast, during neap tides an ultradissipative state dominated. Our results indicate that the characteristics of Ajuruteua beach are influenced primarily by macrotides and moderate wave energy, although the influence of the waves is restricted to the period around high tide, when the water is propagated towards the shoreline.

Oh, J.-E., Suh, K.-D., Oh, S.-H., and Jeong, W.-M., 2016. Estimation of Infragravity Waves inside Pohang New Port. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 432–436. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Pohang New Port, located on the east coast of Korea, has suffered from serious downtime problems. Infragravity waves incorporated with swells or locally-generated wind waves are presumed as an important factor for affecting the downtime, but little investigation has been made to estimate the infragravity waves inside the harbor. In this study, fundamental characteristics of the infragravity waves were investigated by utilizing the wave monitoring data collected inside and outside Pohang New Port as well as the downtime occurrence records. In order to find a relationship between infragravity and gravity waves, regression analysis was conducted for the wave records obtained at each measurement station. To complement the analysis, additional regression was also made between the heights of infragravity waves inside the harbor and those of gravity waves outside the harbor. This provides a better correlation of the quantities, indicating possible use of the information for estimating infragravity waves.

Oliveira, J.F.; Barboza, E.G., and Benavente, J., 2016. Nearshore Dynamics and Holocene Evolution of the Coastal Barrier South of the Santa Marta Cape, Southern Brazil In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 437–441. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The emerged part of the Pelotas Basin extends about 800 km from the Polonio high (Uruguay) to the Florianópolis high (Santa Catarina state, southern Brazil). Since 6-5 ka B.P., the sea level has been dropping slowly, and the sediment balance is the principal factor that controls the actual barrier development. The Holocene barrier presents sectors of transgressive patterns that are usually located in coastal projections, while regressive sectors generally appear in the embayments. This work analyses the evolution of the barrier along a 30 km stretch of coast south of the Santa Marta Cape (Santa Catarina State), in the northernmost part of Pelotas Basin. The sub-superficial configuration of the barrier was characterized through Ground Penetrating Radar (GPR) profiles surveyed perpendicular to the coastline. In addition, an analysis of the nearshore wave propagation was carried out through SMC-Brasil (IHCantabria) to simulate the currents generated by breaking waves and the net sediment transport. The results show two different behaviors along the barrier system; the northern part with transgressive characteristics (dipping landward reflectors) and the southern part with regressive characteristics (dipping seaward reflectors). These different behaviors are associated with the slight changes on the coastal orientation and on the slopes of the shoreface and upper continental shelf. These two factors influence in how waves approach the coast, generating an imbalance in the sediment budget, which is shown in the characteristics of the distinct sectors studied.

Abessolo Ondoa, G.; Almar, R.; Kestenare, E.; Bahini, A.; Houngue, G-H.; Jouanno, J.; Du Penhoat, Y.; Castelle, B.; Melet, A.; Meyssignac, B.; Anthony E.; Laibi, R.; Alory, G., and Ranasinghe R., 2016. Potential of video cameras in assessing event and seasonal coastline behaviour: a case study at Grand Popo, Benin (Gulf of Guinea). In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No.75, pp. 442–446. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

In this study, we explore the potential of a nearshore video system to obtain a long-term estimation of coastal variables (shoreline, beach slope, sea level elevation and wave forcing) at Grand Popo beach, Benin, West Africa, from March 2013 to February 2015. We first present a validation of the video system with field data over a 10-day experiment conducted on Grand Popo beach in 2014. Secondly, 2-years daily and monthly timeseries are extracted and their variability is described as a function of regional forcing and climatic modes. All variables show large monthly variability. The longshore sediment transport estimated locally from video is in agreement with that derived from Era-Interim wave data re-analyses. Results show that the shoreline responds predominantly to tides at the event scale and to waves. Overall, this study suggests that video stations are efficient tools to monitor coastal processes over the long term, in complement with other conventional approaches. Although no clear conclusions can be drawn on inter-annual variability, the results show that it is important to build up extended coastal observation networks to address coastline changes over a wide range of scales.

Prodger, S.; Russell, P.; Davidson, M., and Miles, J., 2016. Beach Morphological Predictions: The Impact of a Temporally Varying Sediment Fall Velocity In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 447–451. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

This paper introduces new field measurements that allow quantification of the relative importance of temporal variations in grain size to beach morphology classification. A dataset of 7 years of daily remotely sensed beach morphological measurements and monthly intertidal topographic surveys with surface sediment sampling were used to assess how observed temporal variations in sediment size (or fall velocity) influence morphological predictions at two energetic, sandy macro-tidal beach sites. Beach morphological predictions were obtained via the widely used sequential classification scheme of Masselink and Short (1993), where time varying wave height and wave period are usually used to drive changes in beach state. Beach state was found to be highly seasonal, with an evolution from more dissipative states in the winter to lower intermediate states in the summer. Beach state predictions were made using both a constant and time-varying sediment fall velocity and then compared to visual observations of morphological state. Predictions using a constant fall velocity correlated poorly (r² = 0.32) with observations, whereas predictions made using a time-varying fall velocity, correlated better (r² = 0.79). A feedback loop was also evident in the system, with energetic waves promoting a migration towards a dissipative state, and a coarsening shoreface grain size.

Rollnic, M. and Medeiros, C., 2016. Equilibrium Beach Profile in the Presence of Beachrocks In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 452–456. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Equilibrium Beach Profile (EBP) models are used to estimate sandy beach profiles, they assume the existence of a shoreface shape that represents an equilibrium condition between wave climate and sediments, making it possible to identify erosion/accretion trends. EBP models suit beaches with near homogeneous grain size sediments. However, in subtropical and tropical areas, beachrocks are often found underlying the beach face, such that EBP models may not be suitable as shadowing areas may favour settling of variable grain size sediments. Our goal was to evaluate the Bruun-Dean EBP model for a beach along which beachrocks were at times absent and at times present as onshore or submerged reefs. Eight 1km-long bathymetric profiles were performed from the surf zone to the 10m isobath and sediment samples obtained at 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 m from the surf zone. EBP was computed for distinct coefficient (m) values and evaluated as a function of resulting summed square error. A closure depth of 3.97 m was computed using wave characteristics were derived from 1 year radar records. Along the study area the 3.97 m isobath is positioned 140 to 400m offshore, disregarding the quotas of the beachrocks. At the control areas where beachrocks were absent, m=0.67 yielded the best fit. At areas where beachrocks were present, profiles tended to be steeper and m=0.77 results in a better adjustment near the shore. For the more seaward portion of the profiles, the incorporation of a parameter related to the reef high could improve fitting.

Ruiz de Alegria-Arzaburu, A.; Arreola-Cortez, M.A.; García-Nava, H.; Hernández-Walls, R., and Mejía-Trejo, A., 2016. The effects of beach morphology variations on the profile of nearshore currents on a gently sloping mesotidal beach. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 457–461. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Concurrent measurements of subtidal beach morphology and profiles of nearshore currents have been collected over a year period on a gently sloping mesotidal beach in the northwestern coast of the Baja California peninsula in Mexico. Data collected in August 2014 and February 2015 during similar tide, wave and wind conditions are compared at different alongshore locations on the beach in order to determine differences on the vertical structure of the nearshore currents in relation to significant morphologic variations. The beach presents a clear seasonal variability, showing the formation of an inner sandbar during the winter as a result of the erosion of a large portion of the subaerial beach. The morphological differences on the inner subtidal beach shows a subsequent effect on the vertical structure of the nearshore currents. Locations with pronounced sandbars have generally associated cross-shore and longshore components of the current of larger magnitude. Generally, the surface and bottom cross-shore currents are the most energetic while the middle layer presents milder magnitudes. With the presence of an inner bar, the shoreward directed upper and bottom layers become wider (deeper) reducing the width of the middle less energetic layer, and after the breaking zone the water column becomes vertically quasi-homogeneous. This study contributes to the understanding of the feedbacks between the hydrodynamic forcing and the beach morphology.

Senechal, N.; Pavon, J.; Asselot, R.; Castelle, B.; Taaouati, M.; Ferreira, S., and Bujan, S., 2016. Recovery assessment of two nearby sandy beaches with contrasting anthropogenic and sediment supply settings. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 462–466. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The aim of this study is to provide the preliminary results of the comparisons of two field sites exposed to the same environmental conditions but with contrasting beach management strategies. Truc Vert beach and Biscarrosse beach are both low sandy beaches situated on the 250km long linear French coast exposed to the Atlantic swells and are about 35km distant. While Truc Vert beach is a fully natural beach, Biscarrosse beach is in an urban area where several coastal defences have been deployed. Data indicate that Biscarrosse beach is less stable than Truc Vert beach. During the dramatic winter 2014 Biscarrosse upper beachface experienced dramatic beach erosion over two consecutive months despite regular beach nourishment operations while at the same time, Truc Vert beach erosion was mostly associated to the first energetic period. Both sites partially recovered over the summer period, especially the upper beachface where the berm generally developped during the summer. While recovery was a fully natural process at Truc Vert beach, massive beach nourishments were operated at Biscarrosse beach. Data indicate that Truc Vert upper beachface remained more stable over the following winter compared to Biscarrosse upper beachface what experienced significant variations. It is concluded that the erosion problem and recovery are very complex and certainly do not only depend on the local availability of sediment.

Silva, R.; Mendoza, E., Mariño-Tapia, I.; Martínez, M.L., and Escalante, E. 2016. An artificial reef improves coastal protection and provides a base for coral recovery. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 467-471. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

In 2007, Hurricane Dean caused extensive damage along the coast of Riviera Maya, exceptionally large mass of wind-transported sand was deposited on the beach front and gardens of the former NH Hotel in Puerto Morelos. Due to the chaotic sea state and the debris carried by the storm, the sand was contaminated with various pollutants, including terrigenous materials and biogenic matter. As an emergency measure, this sand was used to create an artificial dune in the grounds of the hotel. Given the high probability of future storms of such magnitude, it was decided that some form of sediment transport control was needed to protect the beach so an artificial reef was constructed 120 m off the shore. The structure, made of prefabricated concrete elements, has been effective as a coastal defense barrier and has also provided a habitat for several reef species. Five years after the placement of the structure the beach front, which had previously registered erosion problems, had returned to its natural cycle of summer growth and winter retreat and a large number of fish and coral species were using the habitat provided by the structure. However, the coral reef growing on this prefabricated structure was not long-lasting. The massive and persistent occurrence of Sargassum in 2015 brought oxygen depletion, reduced pH, an excess in nutrients and less water transparency on the Caribbean coast, leading to the decline of the reef habitat. Further studies are necessary to test whether reef species recolonize the prefabricated substrate.

Stokes, C.; Russell, P., and Davidson, M., 2016. Subtidal and Intertidal Three-Dimensionality at a High Energy Macrotidal Beach. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 472–476. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Three-dimensional beach features such as crescentic sandbars and rip channels influence a beach's response to storm waves, as well as significantly affecting the safety and amenity provided by the surf-zone for beach water-users. A dataset of 5.5 years of quasi-weekly bar measurements, and quasi-monthly intertidal surveys from Perranporth beach (Cornwall, UK) were used to quantify seasonal to inter-annual changes in three-dimensionality. These changes were seen to be dictated by the cumulative effects of antecedent wave and tide conditions. Although tide range was seen to be important, particularly at the outer bar, a disequilibrium stress term was well correlated with three-dimensionality at the inner and outer bars and lower intertidal beach. This term examines the disparity between the instantaneous dimensionless fall velocity parameter (Ω), and the overall mean dimensionless fall velocity (Ω̄), and is moderated by the instantaneous wave power (P). Low values of disequilibrium stress correspond to Ω that are cumulatively smaller than previous values, indicating the waves have moved from high steepness to low steepness, as normally occurs in the months following winter. It is under such circumstances, as the beach begins to recover, that maximum values of beach three-dimensionality and associated rip channel development were seen to occur.

Takamura, M.; Udo, K.; Sato, M., and Takahashi, K., 2016. Analysis of Coastal Erosion due to the 2011 Great East Japan Tsunami and Its Recovery Using Ground Penetrating Radar Data. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 477–481. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The 2011 Great East Japan Tsunami caused severe beach erosion along the Pacific coast. Eroded beaches began to recover rapidly after the tsunami, but the rate of beach recovery declined recently. We conducted a ground-penetrating radar (GPR) and borehole survey at Yamamoto Beach, which was eroded by the 2011 tsunami, to understand the tsunami recovery process using a new method that combines GPR, satellite images or aerial photographs, and tidal data. We compared reflective surfaces with geological layers observed using the GPR and borehole survey, respectively, to investigate the relationship between the recovery process data obtained from the proposed method and the actual underground structure. The result of the GPR survey at Yamamoto Beach suggests that the estimated profiles from April 4, 2011 to November 2012 maintain a gradient ranging 0.05–0.13 and that recovery speed decelerated with time after the tsunami. The sedimentary structure after November 2012 differs from the previous structure as a result of levee construction. Boundaries formed by a layer between the sand and the sand with gravel layers were observed and found to be nearly consistent with the GPR reflection planes. GPR results identified differences in the water content ratio between the layers owing to changes in grain size. Moreover, GPR reflections appear where layer boundaries are not observed. This also suggests that GPR is capable of recording differences in soil properties that cannot be identified visually.

Thomas, T.; Rangel-Buitrago, N.; Phillips, M.R.; Anfuso, G.; Williams, A.T.. and Oakley, J.A.. 2016. Subaerial rotation on an open coast beach: PendineWest Wales, UK. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 482–486. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Beach profiles and storm related forcing agents were used to assess subaerial beach rotation on an open coast macro-tidal beach. Analysis highlighted a negative phase relationship existed between the beach extremities and variation between negative/positive correlations within the central region identified that medium timescale open coast beach rotation existed. Cross-correlation showed timelag variations in subaerial volume exchange between adjacent sectors lagged behind one another by up to 18 months. While, annually averaged storm climate results highlighted a reduced temporal trend in terms of occurrence, intensity and power. Qualitatively, links were established between storms and erosive/accretive variations in the MHW shoreline indicator that suggest that these events influence beach rotation. Storm wave direction was established to be an important factor and it was concluded that the 3 river estuary complex acted as a surrogate headland restricting sediment by-pass, essentially forming an almost closed cell. These results should be tested at other open coast sites.

Trindade, W.; Pereira, L.C.C., and Vila-Concejo, A., 2016. Tidal modulation of moderate wave energy on a sandy tidal flat on the macrotidal Amazon littoral. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 487–491. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The present study focusses on the Vila dos Pescadores, a tidal flat located at the mouth of the Caeté estuary in the northeast of the Brazilian state of Pará. The aim was to establish the interactions amongst climatological and hydrodynamic processes, as well as fluvial dischages under different conditions. Eight campaigns were undertaken between June 2012 and April 2014. Results show that during the dry season, winds were moderate to strong and blew mainly from the northeast, coinciding with migration of the Intertropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) to the northern hemisphere. During the rainy season, when the ITCZ was moving through this Amazon sector, winds blew from different directions at varying speeds. Maximum local H_s values were recorded during the dry season, when wind speeds were stronger and the waves came from θ < 70°N. During this period, H_s values ranged from 0.0 m (low tide) to 1.3 m (high tide), associated with periods between 2–7 s. During low tides, the waves break on the sandbanks but as the tide elevation exceeds ∼1 m, the waves start to propagate over the sandbank and towards the shoreline. Precipitation levels also had a strong influence on this tidal flat, especially during the first half of the year, when increasing precipitation provoked a surge in the discharge of the Caeté River (with lower H_s values). Under different conditions of hydrodynamic energy (monthly and seasonal variation, neap and spring tides, equinox and solstice periods), wave energy was correlated strongly with the tidal elevation.

Wang, J.; Liang, B.C.; Li, H.J.; Pan, X.Y.; Lee, D.Y., and Xu, Y., 2016. Swash motion driven by the bore and prediction of foreshore profile change. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 492–497. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The prediction of a swash zone bed profile resulting from complex hydrodynamic processes is a challenging task. A series of laboratory experiments at a 2D wave flume were carried out to investigate the evolution of foreshore profiles and sediment transport in the swash zone. The swash motions and the changes of foreshore profiles at the different stages of foreshore evolution were measured for 12 cases of different combinations of wave height, wave period and water level for two different initial beach slopes (1/5 and 1/15). From the evolution of foreshore profiles detected by side looking video cameras mounted to the glass wall of a 2D wave flume, the sediment transport rates were estimated precisely both in time and space using the 1-D sediment conservation equation. The characteristics of the instantaneous sediment flux of swash motion and feasibility of its prediction were discussed. The characteristics of the swash-averaged net sediment flux at different stages of beach evolution were investigated by detecting the detailed net flux at 2 minute intervals from the precise beach profile changes. Simple methods of prediction of sediment transport and foreshore profile change are discussed for swash motion driven by bores.

Yang, Z.T.; Li, H.J.; Liang, B.C.; Lee, D.Y.; Pan, X.Y., and Xu, Y., 2016. Laboratory experiment on the bed load sediment transport over rippled bed. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 497–501. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Bed load sediment transport over rippled bedforms was investigated through a series of laboratory experiments with different combinations of bed slope, grain size, wave conditions and water level using a 2D wave flume. In addition to the measurement of surface waves and velocity, the water surface and bottom bed elevation were precisely monitored using video cameras to record the continuous processes of profile evolution, including ripple formation and migration under the assumption of longshore uniformity. The bed load sediment transport flux associated with ripple migration was then estimated. Numerical model SWASH was applied to provide representative forcing hydrodynamic parameters in the estimation of sediment flux where measurement data was scarce after proper validation. It was observed that ripples migrate with an average speed of 0.113 mm/s, and bed load sediment flux of 0.0061kg m⁻¹ s⁻¹ respectively. Velocity skewness explains the highest correlation with ripple migration speed for all cases, while mean flow appears to be dominant in the coarser sand transport. Good agreement was found from comparisons of sediment transport flux between measurements derived from ripple migration and semi-empirical bed load transport formulations.

Yasumoto, Y.; Kuroiwa, M.; Shibutani, Y.; Osakada, Y., and Matsubara, Y., 2016. 3D morphodynamic model for sand recycling system. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 502–506. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Sand nourishment such as sand bypassing or sand recycling is an effective measure against beach erosion as an alternative technique. The method for setting the optimum injecting amount, site and running cost has not been developed. A numerical model considering the sand nourishment is needed to evaluate the performance of the sand recycling and bypassing projects. This paper is concerned with the development of 3D beach evolution model for taking account the sand dredging and injection processes. In this paper, a model test for sand recycling in an area with artificial reefs was carried out. The model was applied to a sand recycling project conducted at a field site with five artificial reefs (an erosion area). The applicability against the morphodynamics around the five artificial reefs was investigated. Although the volume of erosion/deposition behind the artificial reefs was overestimated, the developed numerical model qualitatively agreed with the measured bathymetry.

Zhang Q.; Gong Z.; Zhang C.K.; Zhou Z., and Townend I., 2016. Hydraulic and sediment dynamics at times of very shallow water on intertidal mudflats: the contribution of waves. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 507–511. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Intertidal mudflats are often characterized by a special “very shallow water” environment, with a water depth in the order of 10 cm. High-resolution data including water depth, wave parameters, velocity profiles (within 3–6 cm above the mudflat surface with a vertical resolution as fine as 1 mm), stratified suspended sediment concentration (SSC) and bed deformation over the intertidal mudflat during August 8–10, 2013 were measured using a self-designed measuring system. High-resolution stratified velocities near the bottom under different tide and wave conditions were compared to the Karman-Prandtl model. Results suggest that the vertical structure of velocity profiles within 55 cm above the bed maintain a logarithmic distribution even when waves were relatively large. In addition, bed shear stresses under current and wave alone and combined current-wave conditions were calculated to evaluate the contribution of waves. This suggests that waves do not induce a significant rise in the bed shear stress, but have a pronounced impact on the sediment suspension. This is particularly the case for very shallow flows during both the early-flood period and the late-ebb period. These periods were characterized by “surges” in velocity and SSC, which are enhanced when waves become larger. Even small waves cannot be overlooked for their contribution to sediment re-suspension and vertical mixing. We conclude that waves strengthen the response of micro-topography deformation due to flow conditions. They enhance the forcing during the “surges” at times of very shallow water, to sculpt the micro-topography of the bed.

Assunção, R.V.; Silva, A.C.; Martins, J., and Flores Montes, M., 2016. Spatial-Temporal variability of the thermohaline properties in the coastal region of Fernando de Noronha Archipelago, Brazil. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and Mc Carroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 512–516. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Brazilian oceanic islands are areas of great environmental, scientific, economic and strategic interest for the country. A better understanding of the thermohaline and hydrodynamic properties is fundamental to complement studies of chemical and biological processes active on the Fernando de Noronha archipelago, located between 03° 52′S and 32° 25′W. The aim of this work was to verify the coastal thermohaline behavior of the most inhabited part of the island, on a seasonal and spatial scale and how it is associated with the nutrient distribution data. Four campaigns were conducted in 2013 and 2014, two during the wet season and two during the dry season. For each period, data were collect at five stations. The results show that during the rainy season temperature increases and salinity decreases in the surface layer. Spatially no large differences are observed. Regarding to nutrient concentration, seasonal concentrations are quite homogeneous in the waters of the archipelago region. The coastal region was characterized by tropical mass water.

Bahmanpour, M.H.; Pattiaratchi, C., Wijeratne, E.M.S., Steinberg, C., and D'Adamo, N., 2016. Multi-year observation of a boundary current along the shelf edge of North Western Australia. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 517–521. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Analysis of multi-year current meter data across North West shelf of Australia identified various aspects of the mean flow in a macro-tidal environment. Main features of the flow appear to be a continuous alongshore south-westward flow, i.e., Holloway current located along the continental shelf edge in depth 100–200 m. Annually, the current transports ∼ 1 Sv of lower salinity, higher temperature water from the tropical regions to North West Cape. The Holloway current is at its maximum intensity (up to 2 Sv) during autumn/winter (Apr–Jul) when the winds are either weak or the region is dominated by south-east trade winds. Unlike alongshore flow, cross-shore structure of the flow is fairly complex and shows variations with depth and season. A new mechanism is proposed to justify the observed intensification of the flow in austral autumn that is closely related to the seasonal cycle of sea level around Australia. Each year, due to the monsoon cycles there is a high sea level anomaly that peaks in February in the Gulf of Carpentaria in the upstream side of the Holloway current that manifests itself as southward progressive high sea level anomalies in the following months along the West Australian coastline. Observed onshore fluxes can also have some implications for the strength of the Holloway current.

Li, J.X.; Chen, Y.P., and Pan, S.Q., 2016. Modelling of Extreme Wave Climate in China Seas. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 522–526. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208..

Accurately estimating the extreme wave climate is important to the ocean and coastal engineering design. In this study, the long-term wave climate from 1979 to 2013 over the northwest Pacific Ocean, centred at the China Seas (including the East China Seas and the South China Sea), is hindcasted by using the spectral wave model WAMC4. The model is driven by the wind forcing obtained from the recently released 6 hourly ECMWF (European Centre for Medium-range Weather Forecasts) reanalysis data, with the spatial resolution of 0.125°×0.125°. For the typhoon events, the parametric typhoon wind fields are generated and blended in the typhoon affected area. The statistical analysis of the extreme waves with 100-year return period at several observation stations are carried out. The results show a good agreement with the observation data, indicating that using the blended wind field for the modelling of extreme wave climate in China Seas can considerably improve the accuracy of the predicted wave heights.

Mahjabin, T.; Pattiaratchi, C., and Hetzel, Y., 2016. Factors influencing the occurrence of Dense Shelf Water Cascades in Australia. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 527–531. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Transport of inshore waters and suspended material off the continental shelf by Dense Shelf Water Cascades (DSWC) has important ecological and biogeochemical implications in Australian waters. Because of high rates of evaporation, denser saline water occurs in the shallow coastal regions around Australia, setting up horizontal density gradients that can drive DSWC. Ocean glider data available from the Integrated Marine Observing System (IMOS), which is operated by the Australian National Facility for Ocean Gliders (ANFOG) located at the University of Western Australia, were used to measure cross-shelf density profiles under varying wind and tide conditions for seven contrasting regions around the entire continent. Overall 97 sets of spatial and temporal resolution data from year 2008 to 2015 collected by the ocean gliders and analysed with a subset presented here. Data from 19 transects covering the years 2012 to 2015 for the Pilbara region of Western Australia, indicated that cascades occur during the autumn and winter due to cooling of the coastal waters which already have higher salinity due to evaporation during the summer months. The cross-shelf density gradient in this continental shelf was found to be maximum in July with a value of 14.23×10⁻⁶ kg m⁻⁴.

Mascarenhas, A.C.C.; Gomes, G.S.; Lima, A.P.Y.; Silva, H.K.N.; Santana, L.S.; Rosário, R.P., and Rollnic, M., 2016. Seasonal variations of the Amazon River plume with focus on the eastern sector. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 532–536. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The Amazon Continental Shelf (ACS) is a highly dynamic environment as a result of physical processes (tidal, current and wind) and the large river discharge from Amazon and Pará Rivers. This research aims to determine seasonal variations of the plume of the Amazon River in the eastern sector, near the Pará River mouth. Five oceanographic campaigns were conducted on the ACS: April and October 2013; May, July and October 2014. The sampling line followed the shape of the Cabo Maguari (Marajo Island) to 260 km in the shelf break. Nine vertical profiles of conductivity, temperature and pressure and turbidity were collected. It reaches a perpendicular distance up to 200 km from the coast during period of maximum rivers discharge (April and May). During low river discharge (October 2013 and 2014), the plume was restricted to 30 km and presented relative high levels of salinity (20 PSU). The Coastal Water, characterized by high temperatures and low salinity was limited to about - 15 m deep. The Tropical Surface Water, which is considered a high value of salinity and water temperature, was identified in the last sample point to 260 km from the coast in 2014. This water body characteristics is commonly found in the North Brazil Current, then it can be concluded that water mass invades the Amazon continental shelf. Even in low discharge conditions, adjacent ocean water do not invade the the Amazon River mouth, only the Pará River estuary. Because of that, these estuaries present different physical and biological processes.

Osborne, P.D. and Forest, A., 2016. Sediment dynamics from coast to slope – Southern Canadian Beaufort Sea. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 537-541. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Profound changes in cross-shelf sediment fluxes are anticipated in coming decades in the southern Canadian Beaufort Sea where an accelerated increase in temperature could lead to large changes in Arctic river hydrology and coastal-marine geomorphologic processes. In the past decade sediment exported to the Beaufort Shelf has increased while sea level pressure has increased accelerating the Beaufort Gyre, strengthening coastal upwelling and expanding the Mackenzie River plume offshore. Sea-ice extent has decreased while storminess has increased increasing wave action, coastal downwelling, current surge and resuspension and transport on the shoreface and shelf. This paper investigates mechanisms, quantities and rates of sediment transport operating in this cold continental shelf-slope environment. Past studies from more than 2 decades of research are compared with recent measurements to develop improved estimates of sediment sources, pathways, fate and fluxes across the shelf and slope. In particular, we explore connections between data from a long term mooring observatory deployed over the continental shelf and slope during the ArcticNet-Industry Partnership (2009–2011) and Beaufort Regional Environmental Assessment (BREA 2011–2015) to those acquired in studies focusing on nearshore and shoreface. Sediment fluxes from the Mackenzie River and erosion of permafrost coasts are compared with outer shelf-slope measurements of settling particles and near-bottom fluxes. In turn, the role of atmospheric and cryospheric processes in forcing sediment transfer from coast to slope is investigated to assess system response to changing climate and evaluate implications for marine hydrocarbon resource development along the continental margin of the Arctic Ocean.

Park, J.-H.; Kim, Y.S.; Lee, H.J.; Lee, H.-Y.; Ha, H.K.; Park, Y.-G.; Jeon, C., and Hirose, N., 2016. Internal tide-induced enhancement of cold water intrusion on the continental shelf of the Korea Strait. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 542–546. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The Korea Strait bottom cold water (KSBCW), characterized by its temperature < 10°C, is believed to originate from the deep basin of the southwestern East/Japan Sea with a maximum transport in August/September. Although previous studies have suggested possible causes of the enhanced KSBCW intrusion in summer, its mechanism is not yet clear. Here we investigate if tides can affect the strength of KSBCW intrusion using numerical simulations. We utilize a high-resolution regional ocean model with 1/108° grids, covering the Korea Strait and the southwestern East/Japan Sea. Numerical simulations are conducted for several cases, which include semidiurnal tides (M₂ S₂), diurnal tides (K₁ O₁), and wind forcings differently to examine their effects on the intrusion. Simulation results reveal that the energetic semidiurnal internal tides, generated around the continental shelf in the northern part of the Korea Strait, can induce the KSBCW intrusion by the internal tidal pumping effect. Two cases including the four major tides reproduce at best a dome-shaped bottom cold water lower than 10°C impinging on the slope southeast coast of Korea, consistent with historical monthly-mean temperature fields. Long-term ferry boat ADCP measurements (> 10 years) across the Korea Strait show that southwestward KSBCW intrusions get stronger 2–3 days after spring tides in summer and fall when the semidiurnal internal tides are strengthened, supporting our simulation results. We therefore propose that the maximum KSBCW intrusion in August/September is caused by the energetic semidiurnal internal tides.

Peng, Z. and Bradon, J, 2016. A Comprehensive 3-D Hydrodyanmic Model in Arabian Gulf. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 547–551. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

A 3-D comprehensive hydrodynamic model in the Arabian Gulf was developed by employing the latest bathymetry data, multiple vertical layers, calibrated atmospheric conditions and tidal forcing, HYbrid Coordinate Ocean Model reanalysis data, as well as the spatial- and temporal- varying climatological data, including cloudiness, relative humidity, air temperature and net solar radiation. This 3-D comprehensive hydrodynamic model in the Arabian Gulf was extensively calibrated and validated across the whole Arabian Gulf for water levels, currents, salinity and temperature. Model results are in good agreement with measurements and satellite data. This newly developed model is proven to be capable of accurately simulating hydrodynamics and the climatology over the whole Arabian Gulf.

Reinke, J.; Lemckert, C., and Meynecke, J.-O., 2016. Coastal fronts utilised by migrating humpback whales, Megaptera novaeangliae, on the Gold Coast, Australia. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 552–556. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Large-scale migration patterns of humpback whales, Megaptera novaeangliae, are quite well known; however, small-scale distribution patterns and relationships with environmental conditions have received less attention. Protection from a range of threats, as well as predicting the effects of climate change, requires knowledge of preferred habitat and environmental conditions. East Australian humpback whales travel from the Southern Ocean towards the Great Barrier Reef to breed. The East Australian coastal environment is dominated by the East Australian Current that carries warm water poleward from the tropics and generates upwelling conditions on the coast. Sharp temperature changes develop at the border of the warm current and the cooler coastal and upwelled waters. This study outlines methodologies and proposes relationships between humpback whale distribution and sea surface temperature (and temperature gradient) on the Gold Coast, Australia. This area is used primarily as a migration route, but also as a resting area for mothers and calves on the southward return journey. The distribution of almost 400 pods favoured cooler waters and areas with a strong temperature gradient. The coastal fronts generated by the East Australian Current generally run parallel to shore and may serve as a tool for navigation, allowing whales to follow the current. Higher productivity in cooler upwelled water and fronts may also provide a chance for opportunistic feeding.

Seo, S.; Park, Y.G.; Park, J.H.; Jeon, C.; Shin, C.W., and Jeong, H.D., 2016. Internal Tides in the Southwestern East/Japan Sea from Observation and Simulation. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 557–561. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Energetic internal tides were observed near the continental slope of the southwestern East/Japan Sea. We investigated the energetics of the internal tides using two data sets of 25-hour-long hourly CTD and LADCP profiles and idealized numerical modeling. The energy level during spring tide was about five times stronger than that of neap. During both observation periods the semi-diurnal M₂ constituent was dominant. Internal tide energy flux peaked at about 150 m level where the amplitude of the internal tide was largest. During spring tide the energy flux directed to the deeper part of the East/Japan Sea across the continental slope, while it was mainly along the slope during neap. The modeling results showed that semi-diurnal internal tides are generated mostly on the continental slope near the observation site. It is also suggested by modeling study that thermocline depth is one of important factors controlling the generation of the internal tide. When the thermocline is deeper (shallower) the internal wave becomes stronger (weaker). The response of the internal tide to the thermocline depth is not symmetric. It also showed most of the energy propagates toward the deeper sections.

Tecchiato, S., Buosi C., Ibba, A., Ryan, D.A., and De Muro, S., 2016. A Comparison of Geomorphic Settings, Sediment Facies and Benthic Habitats of Two Carbonate Systems of Western Mediterranean Sea and South Western Australia: Implications for Coastal Management. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 562–566. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

A similarity exists between the coastal areas of South Western Australia and South Sardinia (Italy-Western Mediterranean Sea), as temperate water carbonate sedimentation dominates the inner shelf at these locations. The seagrass carbonate factory regulates the deposition of modern bioclasts, and the distribution of seagrass meadows and accumulation of bioclasts is controlled by similar processes at the study sites. These biogenic components are mixed to quartz-feldspar sands producing significantly comparable sediment facies, which have been previously documented for Esperance Bay (South Western Australia) and off Porto Pino beaches (Sardinia). Whilst the geological settings of these areas show similar outcropping lithologies, the clastic component of these mixed biogenic and quartz-feldpar sand facies is transported by different agents in the Australian and Sardinian site. In this paper, the similarity between sediment facies is highlighted and their comparison has produced new insights into the processes regulating sediment accumulation in two hydrodynamically different embayments. The characteristics of seagrass beds and their link to the beach system are also compared and set within the context of Mediterranean and South Australian bioregions. These outcomes are relevant for beach management, as European and Australian environmental regulations are compared herein.

Wandres, M., Pattiaratchi, C., Wijeratne, E.M.S., Hetzel, Y., 2016. The influence of the subtropical high-pressure ridge on the Western Australian wave climate. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 567–571. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Understanding the wave climate of a region is critical for its coastal zone management. The southwest Western Australian (SWWA) wave climate is dominated by waves generated in the energetic and variable Southern Ocean (SO) storm belt. The latitudinal variability of the SO storm belt can be described by the position (latitude) of the subtropical high-pressure ridge (STRP). To gain an understanding in how the SO storm belt influences the SWWA wave climate, the relationship between the STRP and the waves was examined. Wave data from three directional wave buoys along the SWWA shelf were compared to the STRP. The seasonal and interannual variability of the STRP and the wave climate indicated a significant correlation between the STRP and the SWWA wave heights with the strongest relationship during winter. A northward shift of the STRP resulted in a northward shift of the SO storm belt which led to increased wave heights in SWWA whereas a southward shift of the STRP resulted in decreased wave heights. The close relationship between the STRP and the local wave climate, suggests it could be used to estimate future wave climates in SWWA.

Collin, A., Etienne, S. and Jeanson, M., 2016. Three-dimensional structure of coral reef boulders transported by stormy waves using the very high resolution WorldView-2 satellite. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 572–576. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Coral reef boulders have been showed to reliably characterize the amount of wave energy related to cyclone, storm or tsunami events. The wave height and current velocity have been successfully explained by the variability in the boulder individual (morphology) and population (distribution) spatial patterns. Even if a single boulder may include a substantial amount of information, it may be highly challenging to characterize it given the access difficulty at the local and regional scales. Moreover, a boulder population is meaningful to robustly and continuously depict the energetic event that drove the sediment transportation. Recently the very high resolution satellite remote sensing has been demonstrated to help classify and measure the horizontal patterns (A- and B-axes) of the boulders at the submeter scale. Here we focus on the vertical dimension (C-axis) of the boulders. Based on boulder fieldwork measurements of the three axes and geographic locations, we constrain various spectral parameters of the remotely-sensed datasets (WorldView-2) to retrieve the three axes of the boulders, reaching a very satisfactory agreements (R²) of 0.95, 0.88 and 0.75, respectively. The innovative C extraction combined with the A and B information will allow geomorphologists to rapidly and extensively collect boulder data so that the underlying energy can be computed in a more expanded and accurate way, at the population scale.

East, H.K.; Perry, C.T.; Kench, P.S., and Liang, Y., 2016. Atoll-scale comparisons of coral reef rim island development, Huvadhu Atoll, Maldives. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 577–581. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Maldivian coral reef rim islands host the majority of the nation's population, land area and infrastructure. However, understanding of the controls on rim island development and their accretionary histories is poor. Here, we present the first detailed sedimentary study of Maldivian rim islands through analyses of core logs from windward and leeward sites around Huvadhu Atoll. Island composition was dominated by a very restricted range of grain producers, with sediment dominated by coral (76.6 ± 0.6%). Material was predominantly rubble and sand-sized, the former likely generated by low-frequency high-magnitude events and the latter as a by-product of parrotfish grazing. While consistencies were found between windward and leeward sites, we highlight intra-regional diversity in reef island development at the scale of an individual atoll.

Jeanson, M.; Dolique, F.; Sedrati, M.; Cohen, O.; Bertier, J.; Cavalin, A.; Charpentier, J, and Anthony E.J., 2016. Wave modification across a coral reef: Cap Chevalier, Martinique Island. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 582–586. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Waves exert a major influence on hydrodynamic processes and on sediment transport over shallow submerged coral reefs, as well as on reef-bound beaches. This study describes results from a field experiment conducted at Cape Chevalier in the southeast of Martinique Island (Lesser Antilles, French West Indies), and investigates spatial and temporal variations in wave characteristics across a microtidal coral reef and lagoon. Measurements of wave pressure fluctuations were obtained using three pressure sensors deployed across the reef from 28 to 30 November, 2011. Analysis of the measured data shows that wave characteristics were strongly influenced by water depth and reef geometry. Calculations of energy dissipation indicate an average energy reduction of 91.5% between the fore-reef and back-reef (86% at high tide and 98% at low tide). The mean energy reduction between the fore-reef and the beach was 95.5% (92% and 99% respectively at high and low tide). The incident waves measured at the fore-reef during the experiment were predominantly trade wind-generated with peak periods between 7 and 10 s. Depending on tidal elevation and water depth, back-reef waves were characterized by an energy distribution dominated by the peak 7–10 s gravity waves at high tide and by infragravity frequencies (>20 s) at low tide. Wave energy at the beach was dominated by infragravity frequencies during both high tide and low tide. Wave spectral analysis indicates, thus, significant filtering of peak period energy as waves traveled across the reef.

Liang, Y.; Kench, P.S., Ford, M.R., and East, H.K., 2016. Reef sediment supply and island building in the South Maldives. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 587–591. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Reef islands are small, low-lying islands composed mainly of bioclastic sands and gravels from the late Holocene. These islands, which support around 700,000 people, are vulnerable to potential threats including land submergence and shoreline erosion. Thus, the sediment supply of the surrounding coral reef is an important consideration for coastal maintenance but there is little research on the link between reef productivity and island building. This paper presents an examination of reef and island beach sediments (material and composition), as well as the eco-geomorphic zones of the contemporary reef. Two islands in Huvadhu Atoll of the Republic of Maldives were used in this investigation. Surficial sediment samples were collected from each reef zone, toe of beach, and beach berm for each island. Benthic surveys for each reef platform and aerial photo analyses were used to determine reef ecology and to constrain the eco-geomorphic zones on the reef. Prevalent organisms on both reefs were coral, crustose coralline algae, and Halimeda sp., while other sediment producers (molluscs and foraminifera) were less represented or absent. However, sediment samples taken from the reef flat show that all constituents are present, similarly to sand samples from the island beaches. The reef and beach sediments had similar compositions, suggesting that the island is still connected to the surrounding reef. This research provides insights into how these reef islands are maintained by the surrounding reef, which has implications for future island building and resilience to climate change.

Bezore, R., Kennedy, D.M., and Ierodiaconou, D., 2016. The Drowned Apostles: The Longevity of Sea Stacks over Eustatic Cycles. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 592–596. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Cliffed rocky coasts are erosional environments, the remnants of which can be preserved as sea stacks as the shoreline retreats. These sea stacks form spectacular landscapes, such as the iconic Twelve Apostles in Victoria, Australia. However, they are ephemeral features formed on a centennial scale, continually eroding and collapsing, meaning that coasts characterised by sea stacks often have fewer features than when first described. The question arises then as to the longevity of such features and whether they can be preserved over eustatic cycles.

The modern Twelve Apostles, of which 8 are still standing, are comprised of the Miocene Port Campbell Limestone and reach 45 m above sea level. Recent multibeam sonar data show five features around 6 km offshore, in 40–50 m water depth that appear to be relict sea stacks. Based on the morphology and geology of both the modern and drowned Apostles, it is inferred that the drowned and modern stacks evolved in a similar manner. While the modern sea stacks have an average height of 45 m, the drowned stacks have an average height of 4 m, suggesting a much greater age and also the possibility of multiple exposures to subaerial processes. The drowned stacks lay 655 m seaward of a drowned cliff averaging 14 m high which likely represents a former interstadial shoreline. This is much greater than the 91 m average distance between stack and cliff for the Modern Apostles, which may imply a more prolonged period of erosion along the drowned coastline.

Matsumoto, H.; Dickson, M.E., and Kench, P.S., 2016. Modelling the development of varied shore profile geometry on rocky coasts. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 597–601. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

This paper describes a new rocky shore profile evolution model. It differs from existing models that focus on shore platform development, through its ability to simulate a wide range of emergent profile shapes. The new model considers a relatively limited number of coastal processes that are represented with simplified mathematical descriptions. The paper describes initial model evaluation against field data from the Japanese coast that were influential in the creation of a widely used conceptual model for rocky shore evolution. The new numerical model produces outputs that are generally consistent with the field observations, but there are some areas of difference which are discussed in the paper. An additional area of focus in the paper considers the new model's capability of producing a wide range of profile types with characteristic geometries, which are also commonly seen in nature, but have been subject to little systematic analysis. Investigation of model outcomes indicates that a broad range of profile shapes in the model requires consideration of the erosive effects of varied wave types (i.e. unbroken, breaking and broken waves).

Poate, T.G.; Masselink, G; Austin, M.; Dickson, M.E., and Kench, P., 2016. Observations of Wave Transformation on Macro-Tidal Rocky Platforms. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 602–606. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Correctly predicting the transformation of ocean waves across rocky platforms has direct implications for cliff stability modelling, coastal defences and long-term coastal evolution. Wave transformation across rocky intertidal platforms is dependent on the morphological characteristics of the platform, including platform width, slope and roughness, and forcing characteristics, including wave and tide conditions. In this paper we present early observations from four field studies providing detailed measurements of wave processes across contrasting rocky platform sites with wave conditions between H_s = 0.5 m and H_s = 1.9 m, water depths between h = 0.5 m and h = 6.8 m and variable platform morphology. Results show that the relative wave height in the surf zone H/h is generally larger than in previous studies (H/h is c. 0.6, instead of 0.3–0.5) and wave dissipation greater for sites with considerable roughness.

Stephenson, W.J. and Abazović, A. 2016. Measuring Coastal Boulder Movement Under Waves Using Tri-Axial Accelerometers. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 607–611. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Boulder entrainment under tsunami or storm wave conditions has been a topic of interest among coastal geomorphologists for the last 25 years. Efforts have been directed to understanding the dynamic conditions under which boulder entrainment occurs and in particular the energy levels required to move boulders of specific sizes. Recent focus on storm waves has highlighted the complexity of the process and that more energetic tsunami waves are not always needed to move larger boulders. Consequently attempts have been made to develop better empirical equations to predict wave height or flow velocity and differentiate between storm waves and tsunami. However, data collection methods are restricted to hindcasting flow conditions based on boulder size, the chosen empirical equations and assumptions regarding historical storm or tsunami events. Significant advances could be made using real time entrainment data of boulder movement alongside flow conditions. This is particularly true if movement type, e.g. suspension, rolling or sliding can be distinguished. This paper demonstrates the use of small and inexpensive tri-axial accelerometers manufactured by Gulf Coast Data Concepts. The accelerometers were placed in PVC water tight housing then located in holes cored into boulders and deployed in conjunction with wave pressure transducers on the shore platform. Movement of 4 boulders were observed by logging real-time accelerations during a 5 day deployment. Preliminary data demonstrated that boulders rolled and moved up to 3 m in a westerly direction, while wave heights were less than 0.7 m, demonstrating of the viability of this technique.

Swirad Z.M.; Rosser, N.J.; Brain, M.J., and Vann Jones, E.C., 2016. What controls the geometry of rocky coasts at the local scale? In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 612–616. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

There is a need to understand the controls on rocky coastal form in order to predict the likely response to climate changes and sea-level rise. Spatial variations in coastal geometry result from inheritance and contemporary processes, notably erosive wave intensity and rock resistance. We studied a 4.2 km long section of coastline (Staithes, North Yorkshire, UK) using LiDAR point cloud data and ortho-photographs. We represented the coast as a series of densely-spaced (25 m) and resampled (0.2 m) 2D cross-sections. GIS-based statistical analysis allowed us to identify relationships between coastal morphology, geology (lithology and rock structure) and wave intensity. We found the following statistically-significant relationships: 1) more intensive waves and weaker rocks are associated with steeper shore platforms, 2) higher platforms and cliff toes are associated with weaker and more variable rocks, and 3) surface roughness increases with greater wave intensity, decreased density of discontinuities and decreased variability of intact rock hardness. However, these relationships are weak, which suggests the potential role of coastal inheritance and/or the need to better represent rock resistance in coastal models.

Balouin, Y.; Longueville, F., and Colombet, Y., 2016. Video assessment of nearshore and beach evolution following the deployment of a geotextile wave breaker. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 617–621. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The feedback on the use of submerged structures for beach protection is still scarce, and the shoreline response to structures is still poorly understood at present. Most of the studies presents structures close to the shoreline without significant morphologies on the shoreface that could interact with it. On the Lido of Sète, a narrow coastal barrier facing the Mediterranean Sea, an experimentation of beach protection using a submerged geotextile structure is undertaken. The structure was deployed in 2013, and to analyse nearshore dynamics, an ARGUS video system was installed in 2011. Video-derived shoreline, bar crest position, alongshore currents, swash processes, were used to assess the natural dynamics and to evaluate the evolution after the installation of the 850 m long structure.

The monitoring permitted to describe a rapid dynamics of crescentic nearshore bars. Processes of longshore migration, linearization, as well as a strong coupling between bar dynamics and shoreline sinuosities were described. After the deployment of the geotextile, a progressive linearization and rotation of the nearshore bar (parallel to the tube) was observed. This process induced a progressive rotation of the shoreline and an important beach enlargement. The 3D patterns, both in the bar and emerged beach progressively disappeared. With this new beach morphology, storm run-up is more regular alongshore, and only major events can reach the dune front and generate impacts. This field experiment provide an interesting feedback on morphological response following the deployment of a submerged structure on a shoreface characterized by an important nearshore bar dynamics.

Clarke, B.; Thurstan, R.H.; and Yates, K.L, 2016. Stakeholder perceptions of a coastal marine protected area, . In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 622–626. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Marine protected areas (MPAs) are an increasingly utilised marine and coastal management tool, with rates of designation rising steeply over the last twenty years. MPAs are most commonly designated for biological conservation objectives and the management is thus focused primarily on meeting conservation goals, with associated monitoring programs gathering data on a narrow suite of biological indicators. However, MPAs also have a wide range of potential social and economic impacts and the ability to meet the goals of an MPA is highly influenced by the often unmonitored perceptions and buy-in of local stakeholders. Here we examine a range of stakeholder perceptions concerning a coastal MPA in South Australia. We conducted semi-structured interviews with individuals engaged in the MPA's planning and designation process, as well as those involved with its ongoing management. We explored their understanding of the purpose of the MPA, whether they thought the MPA was successful and the future management challenges the MPA might face. In particular, we focused on eliciting from stakeholders indicators they thought should be used to monitor the ongoing performance of the MPA. Perceptions varied between stakeholder groups, however, the majority of respondents highlighted the importance of socio-economic factors in the ongoing performance of the MPA. The vast majority of them suggested both biological and socio-economic indicators that should be incorporated into monitoring programs. Our findings highlight the need for MPA planning and management, when defining goals and developing monitoring programs, to be mindful to incorporate social and economic, as well as, biological indicators.

Deidun, A.; Gauci, A.; Azzopardi, J.; Cutajar, D., and Drago, A., 2016. Which is the best predictor of sea temperature: satellite, model or data logger values? A case study from the Maltese Islands (Central Mediterranean) In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), XC Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 627–631. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Water temperature data loggers were deployed at six different depths along a mooring line within Maltese coastal waters. A one-year timeseries of water column temperature data recorded by the same loggers over the September 2012- September 2013 period were compared, through the computation of Pearson correlation factor values, against satellite measures of the SST and against OPA (Ocean Parallelise) model values for the equivalent water depths. Results indicate that satellite-derived SST values are a good estimate of the water column temperature throughout the entire infralittoral zone during the winter and spring seasons, when the thermocline has not yet been established, whilst the degree of convergence between the two sets of values declines sharply during the summer and autumn seasons and extended only up to a depth of 8m and 10m, respectively. OPA model water temperature values for the various column depths give similar results when confronted against data logger values. Although the absolute thickness of the surface warm layer can't be established, one can conclude that this layer is relatively thicker in autumn than in summer.

Farrugia, H.; Deidun, A.; Gauci, A., and Drago, A., 2016. Defining the trophic status of Maltese (Central Mediterranean) coastal waters through the computation of water quality indices based on satellite data. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 632–636. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The Maltese Islands have to comply with onerous EU legislation in order to protect the integrity of their water resources in a comprehensive manner. To date, operational monitoring of water quality parameters within the Maltese coastal waters is almost non-existent. This present study was carried out to compute and map values for the CSI023( ) and modified TRIX indices, using satellite and model data for the entire Maltese Fisheries Management Zone (FMZ); and to identify trends in such index values and relate these to anthropogenic activities, geolocation, bathymetry and seasonal factors. Temporal analyses of ocean colour and index values revealed the following seasonal trend, in decreasing order of value: winter, autumn, spring, and summer. Ocean colour and TRIX index values indicate that, overall, chlorophyll-a values for the 2002–2011 period and 2013–2014 period are consistent with those of oligotrophic, poorly productive waters, with a high water quality. CSI023( ) values for the 2002–2011 period indicated that the Maltese marine area shows a statistically insignificant trend of variation in chlorophyll-a values, possibly due to the low spatial resolution of the ocean colour dataset used. Statistical analyses shows that bathymetry and west/east geolocation have an influence on the trophic status of the Maltese FMZ. Water quality indices computation from satellite and model data enables the fulfilment of the mandatory, contemporary water quality monitoring requirements Malta has and enables the formulation of water quality management recommendations. This research can be integrated in an operational online system as a decision-making tool.

Gusmawati, N.F.; Zhi, C.; Soulard, B.; Lemonnier, H., and Selmaoui-Folcher, N., 2016. Aquaculture ponds precise mapping in Perancak Estuary, Bali, Indonesia. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 637–641. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Indonesia is one of the biggest producers and exporters of shrimp in the world. Shrimp ponds mapping and monitoring will be of critical importance for supporting decision-making regarding the development of sustainable fisheries. Therefore, automatic processing, acceptable quality, and efficient aquaculture mapping are urgently required. The objective of our work is to develop an automatic classification procedure for aquaculture mapping and monitoring, using the Edge Detection Based (EDB) method on very high spatial resolution satellite image. Then we compare the result obtained with EDB with results given respectively by the unsupervised classification method Isodata implemented using ArcGIS (IUC) and a region growing segmentation (RGT) method implemented in SPRING. The broken structure of embankments, dried-up ponds, ongoing development ponds, also abundance of algae and mangrove vegetation in the ponds present significant challenges to establish an accurate map. The aquaculture map provided by EDB successfully identified a high proportion of the existing ponds (> 95%) and overall accuracy of 84% and a kappa coefficient of 0.68. On the other hand, IUC and RGT produced a lower proportion of ponds (between 60 and 80 %) with lower overall accuracy and needed manual refinements. The present study also showed a potential in discriminating different types of ponds. That could be used for a further objective of analyzing the spatiotemporal changes of the ponds and thus improving shrimp farming development.

Jordan, A., Fairfull, S., Creese, R. 2016. Managing threats to the Marine Estate in New South Wales (Australia) to maximise community wellbeing In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 642–646. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The marine estate, incorporating its estuaries, coastline and marine waters, is a valuable asset that belongs to the community of New South Wales (NSW), Australia. The benefits the community derive from it were assessed in a statewide Marine Estate Community Survey, with the health of the marine estate identified as a core value underpinning all other economic and social values and benefits. Its clean, safe waters, biodiversity and natural beauty support multiple uses and provide benefits that contribute to the community's well-being. These uses generate significant economic and social outcomes, including cultural and traditional-use benefits. However, they can also result in conflicts between users, and unsustainable use can also threaten the health of the marine estate resulting in the loss of community benefits.

Management responses are often sector-focused, rather than examining the range of benefits and uses, their threats and cumulative interactions. In response, the NSW Marine Estate Management Authority is applying a new Threat and Risk Assessment Framework for the marine estate at both the statewide and Hawkesbury Shelf bioregion scales. These aim to identify and prioritise threats to environmental, social and economic benefits (collectively termed “community wellbeing”) derived at these two spatial scales. The results inform the development of management responses which will be captured in a new 10-year Marine Estate Management Strategy, and recommendations for improving the conservation of marine biodiversity in the Hawkesbury bioregion. This paper outlines the process undertaken to inform these assessments, and identifies the key findings across the environmetal, social and economic areas.

Kim, J. and Choi, J, 2016. Data-driven modeling of coastal water quality using the Bayesian method for coastal management. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 647–651. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

To understand and a predict a coastal water quality system, a data-driven statistical model has been proposed using the Bayesian method and applied to the Saemangeum tidal lake. To describe a coastal water quality system, a multivariate statistical model was derived by determining observed variables and their interrelationships such as sea surface temperature, salinity, Chl-a, DO, pH, TN, TP, COD, NH₄N, NO₂N, NO₃N, PO₄O, and SiO₂Si for parameters of coastal marine environments, coastal water quality, and nutrients using observed field data. To estimate this statistical model, a Bayesian approach using Markov chain Monte Carlo method was applied to identify an optimal data-driven model. There are no limitations of statistical assumptions for samples using the Bayesian method, which is required in a frequentist approach, such as the maximum likelihood method. The Saemangeum tidal lake's coastal water quality system was quantitatively described and assessed by interpreting coefficients of model parameters with relation among variables from a derived structural equation model. Moreover, a prediction for coastal management was possible by Bayesian inference. Thus, there are new findings on the salinity threshold necessary to maintain optimal water by improving degraded water quality. Based on the findings, a quantity of water mixing (exchaning fresh water through sluice gates) can be applied while continuing construction of land reclamation.

Lee, H.; Kim, S.; Jun, K.W.; Park, H.K., and Park, J.S., 2016. The Effects of Groundwater Pumping and Infiltration on Seawater Intrusion in Coastal Aquifer. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 652–656. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The purpose of this study is to identify the characteristics of seawater intrusion; an examination was carried out of the impacts of groundwater pumping and infiltration by precipitation on the seawater intrusion in coastal aquifers. To simulate seawater intrusion, three layers (layers 1, 2 and 3) were identified based on a drilling log. The infiltration rate of 30 years of rainfall data was calculated as 26.43%. The change of salt concentration was simulated using the FEMWATER model by considering the infiltration rate and assuming the pumping rate as 185m³/day for 300 days. The proportion of transverse dispersivity towards the longitudinal dispersivity was changed from 1/10 to 4/10; in the four cases, the total dissolved solids (TDS) were plotted to compare the observed concentrations. The simulation was performed for the following four cases: no infiltration-no pumping, infiltration-no pumping, no infiltration-pumping, and infiltration-pumping. In the initial stage, the simulated concentrations and observed concentrations of dispersivity for each case showed similar trends; however, after the 100 day period the simulated concentration began to show an underrated tendency. For the no infiltration-no pumping case, the simulated concentrations and the observed concentrations of dispersivity exhibited similar appearances at 3/10.

Quattrocchi, A.; Gorman, J.G., Piggott M.D. and Cucco, A., 2016. M2, overtides and compound tides generation in the Strait of Messina: the response of a non-hydrostatic, finite-element ocean model. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 657–661. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The nonlinear interactions between the main tidal constituents and geographical constraints are investigated using Fluidity-ICOM, a non-hydrostatic finite-element ocean model that was implemented in the region of the Strait of Messina (Mediterranean Sea). As a first crucial approach, the barotropic tidal dynamics was investigated and the model solution was interpreted in terms of tidal maps and spectra obtained by harmonic analysis of the sea surface elevation. The model domain is represented by an unstructured mesh with variable spatial resolution ranging from two kilometres to fifty meters, in order to resolve the shoreline in the inner part of the Strait. Amplitudes and phases of the main diurnal and semidiurnal tides were prescribed at the off-shore open boundaries. A calibration procedure was carried out with available observations in order to provide a suitable parameterization for bottom drag coefficient and horizontal viscosities. The results gave clear indication that over-harmonics and compound tides are generated in the Strait. The generation mechanism, geographical localization and intensity of these phenomena were described to provide groundwork for further model analyses that would clarify the role of shallow water tides in modifying the hydrological setup in proximity of sea straits.

López-Gutiérrez, J.S.; Negro, V., and Esteban, M.D., 2016. New Coastal Regulation in Spain. A roadmap to a better approach to coastal environment. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 662–666. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The decision to draw a fixed line dividing land into two different types of property – public domain and privately owned land – in a changeable environment is a potentially major source of conflict in Spain. This conflict is caused by adapting this fixed line to the movements of the shoreline. Obviously, then, the limit has to move its position from time to time. The current Spanish Coastal Law was published in 2013. As written, it cannot be considered a single document because it has to be read together with the previous 1988 Coastal Law document in order to gain a complete view of the current Spanish Coastal Law. The new Coastal Regulation was published in 2014. The paper shows and analyzes changes in the 2013 Law and the 2014 Regulation in comparison with the previous 1988 Coastal Law and the 1989 Regulation. Some of the changes set forth in the paper are: a more accurate definition of the position of the Public Domain limit; a new definition of the severe regression concept; a new classification of the uses of beaches depending on the characteristics of the area; consideration of the climate change effects; possibility of transferring, inter vivos and causa mortis, of properties located in the public domain under government concession, etc. All these lead drive to major improvements in coastal management in Spain. In addition, this paper includes some proposals for further improvements.

Martín-Antón, M.; Negro, V.; del Campo, J.M., López-Gutiérrez, J.S., and Esteban M.D., 2016. Review of coastal Land Reclamation situation in the World. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 667–671. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Land reclamation from the sea has been occurring since ancient times, especially in harbors. The vast majority of the world's docks now occupy spaces that were once water and this heavily influences the coastal landscape. Japan has been one of the country's most needing to expand into the sea due to its topography and land requirements for agriculture, urbanization and, especially, industries and port facilities. Ninety per cent of Tokyo Bay's coastline is reclaimed land, which is almost 250 km² of new land. In the 21^st century, this disproportionate conquest of the sea has shifted to other countries. In the Persian Gulf, the coast has been indiscriminately occupied with artificial island projects for residential purposes. Some of them are finding some difficulties, such as “The Palms” and “The World” in Dubai, with a loss of sand, which is effect of currents and waves. In China, due to economic expansion and export needs, industrial areas are spreading on the coast. Caofeidian (Bohai Bay) is the largest landfill island in the world with 150 km², more than twice the sum of Dubai islands area. This disproportion of public works in Asia contrasts with the rest of the world. For example, the Bay of Algeciras (Spain-UK) is the largest container traffic Port in the Mediterranean with 2.5 km² of reclaimed land, 100 times less than Tokyo Bay. A further problem associated with this practice is liquefaction, caused mainly by earthquakes, leading to ground subsidence in buildings, such as in Niigata (1964) or in San Francisco (1989), all on reclaimed land. This research paper aims to study land reclamation in the World with current statistics, geotechnical problems, the impact on the coastal landscape and future developments.

Muurmans, M., Leahy, P., Richards, L., Communicating beach management: educators; coastal engineers and local governments collaborating to create successful education programs. Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 672–674. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Through partnership between The Griffith Centre for Coastal Management and the City of Gold Coast a very successful education program “CoastEd” was created since 2001 with a focus on the coastal environment. Complimentary educational sessions are delivered to schools, community groups and residents. Topics range from beach health, coastal processes and tourism, to mangrove environments and climate change. The school programs match the Australian Curriculum and community programs are increasingly popular. The unique collaboration between a city council and a research centre has resulted in improved communication to the community as all programs are delivered by industry professionals with an extensive teaching background. The award winning program has been operational for 15 years and is highly respected in the community. CoastEd is a knowledge hub for queries the local community may have with regards to coastal protection. This paper will highlight some of the successful techniques we have used to increase awareness on certain pressing topics such as climate change, coastal protection and biodiversity.

Ota, T.; Kawamura, H.; Matsumi Y., and Hirayama, T., 2016. Evaluation of life cycle cost for wave-dissipating works considering occurrence probability of high waves. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 675–679. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

This study deals with the influences of occurrence frequency and the duration of high waves on estimation of life cycle cost (LCC) for wave-dissipating works that consist of wave-dissipating blocks using Monte Carlo simulation. LCC is defined as sum of an initial construction cost and an expected repair cost of wave-dissipating blocks. As analysis results of high waves at four observation stations in NOWPHAS, the occurrence frequency of high waves can be approximated by the Poisson distribution. In the computation of LCC, occurrence frequency of high waves is assumed as once a year or is determined by using the Poisson distribution for comparison. The duration of high waves is given in consideration of its statistical characteristics. The optimum size of block that minimizes LCC agrees in most cases regardless of the occurrence frequency and the duration of high waves, however, the variation in the total repair cost during the in-service period is different depending on the occurrence frequency.

Pereira da Silva, C.; Nogueira Mendes, R..; Moutinho, G.; Mota, V. and Fonseca, C., 2016. Beach carrying capacity and protected areas: management issues in Arrábida Natural Park, Portugal. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 680–684. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Arrábida Natural Park (Portugal) comprises beaches with high natural and scenic values under huge demand during peak season. Understanding patterns of beach use and the perceptions of users is essential for carrying capacity management. This paper discusses the use intensity and dynamic in two beaches, using data from onsite counting, time-lapse photos and a traffic counter. Users' perceptions regarding general aspects of the beaches and perceived crowding obtained through questionnaires are also presented. The number of users recorded in this study never reached the carrying capacity established and most users feel comfortable with the number of people on the beach. However, parking and traffic were identified as factors of concern: users are not discouraged by the limited parking spaces, often exceeding the formal capacity by parking on the roadside. This type of problem needs to be addressed not only in the context of beach management but also the protected area management.

Santos, L. C. M.; Rollo, M.M.; Costa, T.M.; Pinheiro. M.A.A.; Dahdouh-Guebas, F. and Bitencourt, M.D., 2016. Spatial analysis of a coastal area for conservation and fishery of mangrove edible crab (Ucides cordatus). In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14^th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 685–689. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Mangroves are productive ecosystems of tropical coastal landscapes, constituting habitat for many commercial fisheries, as the crab Ucides cordatus. In Brazil this crab holds a major socio-economic importance for artisanal fishery, but with obvious decline on their productivity. In this study we determined and mapped the more suitable mangrove areas for the conservation and fishery of this crab in the São Francisco River Estuary (Northeastern Brazil). We applied a Multi-Criteria Evaluation (MCE) in a GIS environment. Ten criteria in total were used, including crab biotic parameters, land use/cover and social factors. Maps of each criterion were produced by GIS techniques with CBERS and SPOT images and by field data. Mangroves more suitable for the conservation of U. cordatus (9.4 km²) are near to the river mouth, due to high density and frequency of non-commercial size crabs (NCSC), low density of commercial size crabs (CSC), small crabs and low degree of use for fishery. On the other hand, the mangroves for the crab fishery occurred with a similar area (10.2 km²) located farther away from the river mouth, with a high density and frequency of CSC, low density of NCSC, big crabs, medium-high degree of use for fishery and near to the villages. These information and thematic maps can aid government agencies in delineating extractive and fishery exclusion areas, thus contributing to the management plan for this species.

Scherer, M.E.G. and Asmus, M.L., 2016. Ecosystem-Based Knowledge and Management as a tool for Integrated Coastal and Ocean Management: A Brazilian Initiative. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 690–694. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The Ecosystem-Based Management (EBM) brings knowledge highlighting the importance of ecosystem services (ES) as the key factors supporting the environment, social and economic integrity, as well as human wellbeing. EBM could represent the change from public policies greatly focused on normative and bureaucratic components to new policies predominantly based on the understanding of ecosystem processes and the regulation of human activities. Nevertheless, most of the coastal zone management initiatives in Brazil lack the necessary ecosystem based information to fully support EBM. They also often don't integrate the ecosystem-based information into the management system in an appropriate way. This paper proposes a roadmap model to produce the ecosystem-based information and its application for coastal policies. This involves the identification of (1) dominant ecosystems and ecosystem services; (2) benefits for human wellbeing; (3) stakeholders affected; (4) main pressure, human or natural produced; (5) main impacts, (6) managerial responses. The model was applied at Santa Catarina Island on the Southern coast of Brazil and demonstrated that a territory of around 425 Km² holds 17 different environmental systems, 47 direct befits from the environmental services, with a great number of stakeholders who are linked directly to these benefits. In other hand Santa Catarina Island suffers from 39 different vectors of pressure, threatening the environmental systems and its services and benefits. This study also showed the great amount of interrelations among ES, stakeholders and managerial initiatives and the need for ecosystem based information and knowledge for an effective Integrated Coastal and Ocean Management in Brazil.

Shibutani, Y.; Kuroiwa, M.; and Matsubara, Y., 2016. Effect of the Coastal Protection using the Beach Nourishment at Tottori Sand Dune Coast, JAPAN., Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 695–699. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Beach erosion is a serious problem worldwide. The Tottori Sand Dune coast had started eroded in the 1950s, and the beach nourishment project has been carried out to restore the shoreline since 2005. The total volume of the sand was approximately 650,000 m³ from 2005 to 2014. In particular, a large amount of sediments, which was 100,000 m³, was injected in 2010 and 2011.

In this study, the effect of the project was estimated. The sand volume increased temporarily after the large-scale beach nourishment, and then, the sand volume gradually decreased. However, the shorelines showed restoration trends after the beach nourishment project. In addition, although a part of the injected sediments was moved to the Tottori port, recovery of the shoreline was maintained.

Sorensen, C.; Dronen, N.K.; Knudsen, P.; Jensen, J., and Sorensen, P., 2016. An extreme event as a game changer in coastal erosion management. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 700–704. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The construction of hard protection measures along the northeast coast of Sealand, Denmark, has gradually led to profile steepening, loss of beaches, and increased storm erosion. Although the problem has been addressed for decades no common solutions have been implemented yet. However, the impact of cyclone Xaver in December 2013 with severe coastal erosion led to collaboration between the involved municipalities to work on a coherent solution for the entire coastline that involves sand nourishments, renovation and optimization of hard protection structures, and the restoration of recreational values. We present a concept of ‘erosion pressure’ as a simple method to estimate potential chronic (longshore) and acute (cross-shore) erosion on protected coasts. The erosion pressure estimates are reliable at the investigated coast and the concept has proved useful for dissemination to stakeholders about coastal dynamics.

Sousa, R.C.; Pereira, L.C.C., and Jiménez, J.A., 2016. Estuarine beaches of the Amazon coast: environmental and recreational characterization. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 705–709. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The Amazon coast is rich in natural resources, with highly valued natural landscapes and ecological systems. These environments include estuarine beaches, which are important areas for recreational activities. The present study provides an environmental and recreational diagnosis of three of these estuarine beaches on the Amazon coast (Colares, Marudá, and Murubira). The study was conducted in July, 2012, 2013 and 2015. An set of variables was assessed: (i) physical variables (hydrodynamics), (ii) microbiological variables (thermotolerant coliform concentrations), (iii) recreational actvities and (iv) the spatial distribution of infrastructure and services. The results indicate that these beaches are moderately hydrodynamic, with tidal ranges of 3–5 m and wave heights of up to 1 m, which are attractive features for beachgoers. The lack of adequate urban planning has caused serious social and environmental problems (e.g. erosion, destruction of dunes and mangroves, inadequate disposal of solid waste). The quality of the water has been affected by the lack of an adequate public sanitation system and the presence of numerous illegal sewage outlets on these beaches, which contribute to the high thermotolerant coliform concentrations recorded. The following measures were recommended: (i) removal of sewage outlets; (ii) collection of garbage from the beach at the end of each day's recreation; (iii) the provision of trash cans along the coastline, and (v) the installation of public toilets. The results of the study emphasize the urgent need for the regulation and planning of the use of the coastal environments of the Amazon region.

Todd D.J. and Bowra, K., 2016. Development of beach health index for the Gold Coast, Australia. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 710–714. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The City of Gold Coast Council “Ocean Beaches Strategy 2013–2023” included the preparation of an annual Beach Health Report as a key action for measuring whether the city's beach were clean and healthy. As a result, the Griffith Centre for Coastal Management and City of Gold Coast have been investigating what are the most appropriate indicators and reporting systems for beach health that will provide an objective rating of the overall quality of Gold Coast beaches, both in the present and in the future. An initial literature review concluded that the most suitable beach health rating system was a system based on the framework of the existing “Ocean Health Index” (Halpern et al., 2012) adapted to incorporate eleven indicators of beach health covering the recreation, protection and ecological functions of beach environments drawn from existing European and Australian beach rating systems. The recommended indicators and rating systems were trialled at four Gold Coast beaches with different levels of development and recreational use. This paper describes the preliminary results and issues encountered in trying to adapt the existing Beach Health methodologies to the Gold Coast.

Tomlinson, R.B.; Jackson, L.A., and Bowra, K., 2016. Gold Coast seawall: Status investigations and design review. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 715–719. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

As part of the development of a whole-of-coast strategy for coastal protection on the Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia, the structural integrity of the so-called A-Line Seawall has been investigated and a review of the design of the wall has been undertaken. The seawall is located along the 1967–74 erosion scarps and extends for much of the length of the developed shoreline of the Gold Coast. In combination with beach nourishment these terminal seawalls are an integral part of the long-term management of Gold Coast beaches. The standard seawall design and alignment were adopted by the City in the early 1970s with the only structural design change in over 40 years being an option in the 1980's replacing the clay / shale tertiary layer with geotextile. The status investigations were aimed at evaluating the present condition and damage modes of the existing seawalls after long term service. Methods included potholing, Ground Penetrating Radar and excavation / peel back of the armour layers. The review found that the standard seawall designs conformed to present standards but upgrading in the future would be required. Future exposure levels and design conditions were developed along the coastline. It has been concluded that upgrading and completion of a continuous seawall will be required for the future security of Gold Coast beachfront assets. With the uncertainty regarding the rate and extent of changes to sea levels and design wave heights, a staged approach is practical.

Woo, J.; Kim, D., and Na, W.B., 2016. Anchor collision analysis of stone-filled bags for submarine power cable protection using a smoothed particle hydrodynamics method. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 720–724. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

We present a method for the safety analysis of stone-filled bags used to protect submarine power cables from anchor collision, using a smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) method capable of dealing with discrete rocks. For this purpose, stone bags were modelled using the SPH method. Using the terminal velocities of five anchors, we simulated the transient dynamic behavior that occurs when the anchors collide with the stone bags. The response was sensitive to the collision velocity, while the displacement responses were also sensitive to the shape of the anchor heads. Stockless anchors provided more sensitive responses, especially stresses, to the larger stone bag size. Our results indicated that the safety performance of the 3.0 m × 3.0 m × 3.0 m stone bag provided sufficient protection for all of the collision cases. It should be noted that the collision velocities corresponded to the maximum (terminal) velocity. For shallower water depths, resulting in anchor velocities less than the terminal velocity, the 1.5 m × 1.5 m × 1.5 m stone bag would also provide suitable protection against anchor collision.

Yokoo, Y. and Udo, K., 2016. Connectivity between sediment storage in dam reservoir and coastal erosion: implication through zonal mapping of monitoring data. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 725–729. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

In the present study, we investigated the relationship between sediment storage in dam reservoirs and coastal erosion covering 71 coastal zones in Japan. Consequently, we found a weak but significant positive correlation between sediment storage in dam reservoirs and coastal erosion. The weakness of the correlation here indicates that sediment storage in dam reservoirs is not the primary cause of coastal erosion. In addition, we developed a simple methodology for estimating sediment inflow into a dam reservoir based on hourly turbidity and water inflow measures for the selected Miharu dam reservoir. Using this estimation, we explored the current relationship with precipitation intensity and this relationship can be used for climate change impact and adaptation studies. Our provisional investigation into the Miharu dam watershed showed that the hysteresis effect in the relationship is negligible, although further studies are necessary to validate our claim.

Gontz, A.M; McCallum, A.B., Moss, P.T., and Shulmeister, J., 2016. Ground penetrating radar observations of present and former coastal environments, Great Sandy National Park, Queensland, Australia. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 730–734. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The world's large sand islands and mainland sand masses dominate the coastal system of southeastern Queensland with dunes exceeding 240 m in height. Previous work using sediment cores and TL/OSL dating has estimated the age of the dunes at 730,000 years. This system, the world's largest downdrift sand system, has Fraser Island and the Coolala Sand Mass as the two northern-most members. Combined, these form the Fraser Island UNESCO World Heritage Site and the Great Sandy National Park. Between 2012 and 2015, a series of high-resolution, reconnaissance-level GPR lines were acquired on Fraser Island and on the northern end of the Coolala Sand Mass; totalling over 75 km. The lines provide insight into sea-level fluctuations that drive large-scale coastal evolution and reveal the presence of past shoreline complexes that are proposed to be associated with the mid Holocene highstand and the previous interglacial. The generalized sequence is interpreted as a variable thickness of aeolian sand over beach deposits with a transgressive unconformity at the base of the beach deposits, which is interpreted as the Mid Holocene-to-present system. The Mid Holocene system overlies an older system that has variable preservation and is composed of beach deposits with a transgressive unconformity at the base. In places, portions of the sequence are lightly consolidated with organic material, locally known as “coffee rock”. The coastal sequences hold the potential to host an archive of storm, sea level and sediment supply records over at least two interglacial periods.

Jeong, W.-M., Oh, S.-H., and Eum, H.S., 2016. Analysis of wave climate around Korea based on long-term hindcast and coastal observation data. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 735–739. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Understanding long-term trends of wave climate is important to establish proper mitigation and adaptation strategies for possible coastal erosion and loss of safety in maritime structure due to climate change. In this study, a 36-year (from 1979 to 2014) wave hindcasting was carried out and detailed analysis was made to recognize long-term changes in coastal wave climate of Korea. The reanalysis wind data provided by ECMWF are applied to the simulation of wave fields over sea waters around Korea. The SWAN model was used to obtain the wave fields from the longitude 120° to 150° East and from the latitude 22.4° to 47.6° North with a grid resolution of 1/12° by 1/12°. Comparison of the hindcasted waves with available wave observation data shows that the simulated wave field agrees fairly well with the observation although extreme values of the significant wave height are slightly underestimated. On average, the annual average and maximum values of the significant wave height showed increasing trend along the coasts of Korea.

Kerans, A.J., and Cartwright, N., 2016. Testing versions of the Bruun rule for low energy macro-tidal tropical beaches against a theoretical late Holocene sea-level high-stand and beach ridge evidence of late Holocene beach faces. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 740–744. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Significant evidence of late Holocene beach faces is presented in beach ridges along the North Queensland coast between Mackay and the Daintree region. The ages of these ridges has in some cases been dated giving confidence that the rearmost ridges are the result of a combination of cyclone activity and a late Holocene sea level high-stand. The height of this high-stand is the subject of debate, however the level may be confidently predicted through careful and extensive measurement of relict oyster beds in the region. Using pre-existing beach ridge research together with existing and new measurements of oyster beds on Magnetic Island, North Queensland a value for the late Holocene sea level high-stand is proposed which can be compared to the position of the coast on certain beaches during this period. These measurements are a good basis to test the applicability of the Bruun rules and some proposed modifications for the low energy beach systems of tropical North Queensland. This paper firstly examined the late Holocene sea level evidence stored in relict oyster beds and from that proposes a sea level to be used in the analysis. This sea level is then used to test the Bruun rule and variants and examine the differences between dated Holocene beach faces and the recession predicted by these models.

Kim, Y.-T.; Cho, H.-R.; Uranchimeg, S.; Lee, S.O., and Kwon, H.-H., 2016. A hierarchical Bayesian model based nonstationary frequency analysis of extreme sea level under climate change along the shorelines in South Korea. Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 745–749. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Urban development and population increases have continuously progressed in the coastal areas in Korea; thus, it is expected that vulnerability towards coastal disasters by sea level rise (SLR) would accelerate. This study investigated the trend of the sea level data using Mann-Kendall (MK) test, and the results showed that the increasing trends of annual average sea level at 17 locations were statistically significant. For annual maximum extremes, seven locations exhibited statistically significant trends. In this study, nonstationary frequency analysis for the annual extreme data, together with average sea level data as a covariate, was performed. Nonstationary frequency analysis results showed that sea level at the coastal areas of the Korean Peninsula would be increased from a minimum of 60.33mm to a maximum of 214.90mm. The future mean sea level rise (MSLR) increases in the year 2100 estimated in this study suggested that rises in the sea level at the sea near the Korean Peninsula would be rather less compared with global MSLR by RCP(AR5) scenarios. Nevertheless, the SLR is still very high and we need to evaluate the risk for the marine structures and coastal areas due to the acceleration of the sea level and to prepare adaptation strategies at the national level. Furthermore, it is necessary to carry out a nonstationary frequency analysis considering the representative concentration pathways (RCP) scenario and more reliable information for acceleration characteristics as a future study.

Leal, R.A.; Barboza, E.G., Bitencourt, V. Jr. Biancini da Silva, A. and Manzolli, R.P., 2016. Geological and Stratigraphic Characteristics of a Holocene Regressive Barrier in Southern Brazil: GIS and GPR Applied for Evolution Analysis. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 750–754. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The observation of geological and geomorphological factors in coastal barriers to allows interpret the processes involved and the temporal trends over time. During the Holocene, the Balneário Torneiro barrier, located in the southern coast of Santa Catarina, prograded approximately 1.3 km, preserving the records of Urussanga river's system dynamics in surface and subsurface paleochannels. The presence of such features close to the boundary with the Pleistocene deposits up to the present coastline indicates that the evolutionary behavior of the barrier is progradational. The identification of superficial morphological features interpreted on the barrier such as transgressive dune sheets and beach ridges corroborates this interpretation. In subsurface, three main radar facies (RF-1, RF-2, RF-3), a surface radar (erosive surface) and a subsurface feature (SF) were identified in the Ground Penetrating Radar (GPR) profiles. Continuous to discontinuous reflectors, sub parallel with high amplitude, were interpreted as corresponding to the beach/shallow marine environment (RF-1) formed by the barrier progradation. An erosive surface in concave form truncating these reflectors, with onlap and downlap reflectors in the concave face, and truncation in the convex base, was interpreted as the base of a paleochannel. The others radar facies (RF-2 and RF-3) are related to the filling of the channel. The integrated interpretation of GIS and GPR data have allowed to interpret evolutionary characteristics at different time scales of the studied barrier sector.

Montreuil, A-L.; Elyahyioui, J., and Chen, M., 2016. Impact of local wind and atmospheric circulation patterns on coastal morphological changes along the Belgian coast. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 755–759. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Large scale atmospheric circulation is an important component of wind forcing which in turn control strom surge generation. The study aim is to evaluate the impact of large-scale atmospheric flow and wind on the occurrence of storm surges causing significant morphological impacts along the Belgian coast. An objective classification scheme of the atmospheric circulation affecting the North Sea basin is used for almost 150-years (1871–2014). The observed storm surge events associated with erosion are examined with respect to the circulation weather types (CWTs) and the winter North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) phases under which they occur. It is shown that although the Anticyclonic (A) type being the most frequent in winter (27%) and also over the entire year (28%) gives less than 1–10% of contribution to the occurrence of observed storm surges. However, the Cyclonic (C), Northerly (N), Northwesterly (NW), Westerly (W) and Southwesterly (SW) types happen less often, they account together for more than 82% of the observed storm surges. Also, the observed storm surges primarily occurred during a moderately positive winter NAO index while strong winter NAO index rarely accounted for the storm surge events. Results highlight the inter-connections between the occurrence of observed storm surges, interannual variability of CWTs and winter NAO index. These data are also investigated to examine their evolutionary trends in order to detect any ongoing trends of climate change. Identify any link and trend between storminess and atmospheric circulation pattern could help to better prepare coastal communities and coastal managers for future storm surges.

Oh, S.M.; Moon, I.-J., and Kwon, S.J., 2016. Increasing the highest storm surge in Busan harbor, In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 760–764. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

One of the most pronounced effects of climate change in coastal regions is sea level rise and storm surges. Busan in particular, the fifth largest container handling port in the world, has suffered from serious storm surges and experienced a remarkable mean sea level (MSL) rise. This study investigates a long-term variation of annual maximum surge height (AMSH) using sea level data observed in Busan over 53 years (1962∼2014). The decomposition of astronomical tides and surge components shows that the AMSH has increased 18 cm over 53 years (i.e., 3.5 mm/year), which is much larger than the MSL trend (2.5 mm/year) in Busan. This significant increase in AMSH is mostly explained by the increased intensity of landfall typhoons over the Korean peninsula (KP), which is associated with the increase of sea surface temperature and the decrease of vertical wind shear at mid-latitudes of the western North Pacific. In a projected future warming environment, the combination of an increasing MSL and AMSH will accelerate the occurrence of record-breaking extreme sea levels, which will be a potential threat in Busan harbor.

Suh, S.W., 2016. Tidal asymmetry and energy variations due to sea-level rise in a macro tidal bay. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 765–769. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Multiple coastal constructions at shallow depths in macro tidal environments, have resulted in remarkable coastal hydrodynamic alteration resulting in tidal asymmetry, energy flux, and dissipation. Consequently, the temporal aspect of sedimentation has changed abruptly and can eventually cause long-term variations. These anthropogenic alterations should be precisely investigated in relation to sea-level rise (SLR) in order to mitigate unexpected consequences. To understand alteration of tidal asymmetry due to SLR, gamma parameters that combine the traditional tidal amplitude ratio of M₄/M₂ and phase-lag difference were evaluated using the ADvanced CIRCulation (ADCIRC) model under finely resolved complex coastal geometry. Moreover, tidal energy flux and dissipation changes, in relation to tidal-flat area, were examined in Gyeonggi Bay, South Korea. As a result of SLR, spatial change in tidal asymmetry would occur; moreover, gamma parameter intensity, which shows flood dominance, would attenuate. M₂ and M₄ tidal energy flux would be lessened by SLR. For the energy dissipation, slight change appeared in M₂, while lessening tidal flat area directly affected reduction in M₄ based on SLR scenarios. Because a small change in tidal asymmetry could yield long-term morphological changes in the macro tidal environment, these alterations should be treated as important. A numerical restoration test removal of Siwha Dike, which behaved as a tipping point on tidal asymmetry, revealed that even a SLR scenario did not have significant effect if the natural shoreline persists. Thus, future studies should be focused on the importance of long-term impact on tidal alteration induced by coastal construction.

Uranchimeg, S.; Cho, H.-R., Kim, Y.-T., Hwang, K.N., and Kwon, H.-H., 2016. Estimating the accelerated sea level rise along the Korean Peninsula using multiscale analysis. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 770–774. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

An accelerated sea level rise has recently been detected in many parts of the world. It has been acknowledged that isolation of the acceleration in the long-term is difficult due to the fact that there is an embedded low frequency associated with the climate variability. In light of this, this paper aims to provide a new multiscale assessment tool for the estimation of sea-level acceleration for tide gauge data along the Korean peninsula. This study employed the wavelet transform (WT) and the Ensemble Empirical Mode Decomposition (EEMD) methods to better isolate time varying oscillation and estimate reliable sea-level acceleration of the trend. This paper first examined the WT and the EEMD methods to fully understand their capability using synthetic data, and then further investigated the acceleration rates of the historical tide gauge records. It was found that the EEMD showed more reliable estimates than the WT in terms of the trend error. The smooth increase in the trend at all stations, except Wido, and acceleration in southern coastlines of South Korea was identified through the EEMD. Future work must be focused on developing a Bayesian-based nonstationary frequency analysis model in which the estimated acceleration rates are used to evaluate the risk associated with sea-level rise.

Vilumaa, K.; Tõnisson, H.; Sugita, S.; Buynevich, I.V.; Kont, A.; Muru, M.; Preusser, F.; Bjursäter, S.; Vaasma, T.; Vandel, E.; Molodkov, A., and Järvelill, J.I., 2016. Past extreme events recorded in the internal architecture of coastal formations in the Baltic Sea region. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 775–779. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The postglacial uplift and transgressive-regressive phases of the Baltic Sea have affected the formation and displacement of sandy accumulation forms in the region. The dune-ridge complexes preserve a geological record of past sea-level fluctuations, coastal evolution, and extreme events, and offer insights into major driving mechanisms. This study aims to improve methodologies for identifying different storm signatures in coastal deposits using examples from Estonia and Latvia. The paleo-beach ridges are typically covered by aeolian sand, and the inter-ridge swales are mostly filled with organic sediments. Ground-penetrating radar surveys corroborate distinct textural patterns in sand layers underneath the ridges and swales. In the ridges, sharp seaward-dipping reflections represent storm scarps. The ridge sequences without dipping reflections suggest either aeolian origin or longshore transport; smaller sandy ridges, which are buried under peat layers, reflect prolonged, calmer phases. Compound dunes with ridges in their cores indicate major coastal events or shifts in atmospheric conditions that would have exposed wide sand areas to wind and facilitated dune development. This study demonstrates that the aeolian processes and changes in storminess have played an important role in the genesis of ridge-swale complexes in the Baltic Sea Region.

Watson, P.J., 2016. How to improve estimates of real-time acceleration in the mean sea level signal. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 780–784. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

One of the most critical environmental issues confronting mankind into the foreseeable future remains the ominous spectre of climate change, in particular the pace at which impacts will occur and our capacity to adapt. Sea level rise is one of the key artefacts of climate change that will have profound impacts on global coastal populations. Although extensive research has been undertaken into this issue, there remains considerable conjecture and scientific debate about the temporal changes in mean sea level and the climatic and associated physical forcings responsible for them. Over recent years, significant debate has centered around the issue of a measurable acceleration in mean sea level, a feature central to projections based on the current knowledge of climate science. To reduce this uncertainty, it is necessary to determine the better performing analytical approaches for isolating the mean sea level signal from long, individual ocean water level time series with improved temporal resolution. This paper summarises the testing and development of an analytical tool designed specifically to enhance real-time estimates of velocity and acceleration in mean sea level derived from contemporary ocean water level data sets. The long ocean water level record at San Francisco, USA has been used to highlight the application and utility of the improved approach.

Zhou, C.Y.; Zheng, J.H.; Dong, P.; Zhang, J.S.; Zhu, Y.L., and Zhang, Z.H., 2016. Tidal evolution in the Yellow and East China Sea during Holocene. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 785–789. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The impact of the sea level (SL) change on the propagation of tides in the Bohai Sea, Yellow Sea and East China Sea (BYECS) during Holocene was investigated by a 3D numerical model with SL of −60, −30, −15, 0 and 2 m, respectively. Same amplitude and phase of tidal constituents M2, S2, K1 and O1 were applied along the open boundaries in all the cases. The results showed that the number of amphidromic points of M2 increased from 2 to 4 while that of K1 increased from 1 to 2 as the SL rising. Both M2 and K1 co-phase lines rotated anti-clockwise as sea-level rising. S2 shared similar evolution pattern with M2 while O1 evolved similarly with K1. The 2 m SL can have significant influence on the tide pattern. Mainly because the new basin area enlarged, especially the vast area around the Subei and Changjiang estuary, also very near the amphidromes in the south Yellow Sea, which dissipated large amount of tide energy. The new coastline and bathymetry changed the propagation pattern of M2, the tide energy decreased significantly at the north Yellow Sea and Bohai Sea while increased along the Yangtze estuary and Korea west coast. The strong tidal current area corresponded well with the sand ridges during Holocene while weaker tidal current area corresponded with finer muddy deposit, indicating tide force is the dominate factor controlling the bedform generation and sediment distribution in BYECS.

Atkins, R.J.; Tidd, M., and Ruffo, G., 2016. Sturgeon Bank, Fraser River Delta, BC, Canada: 150 Years of Human Influence on Salt Marsh Sedimentation. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 790–794. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The Fraser River Delta in south western British Columbia, Canada, is a relatively recent geologic feature being only approximately 10,000 years old. The delta environment, and the intertidal banks, are the cumulative effect of flood and sediment discharges over the post-glacial interval. The salt marsh of Sturgeon Bank, on the northwest side of the delta, has been identified as under threat from erosion. The occurrence, cause and extent of erosion have been a subject of speculation, investigation and conclusion for several decades; however, dissenting opinions on the persistence of erosion over the last fifty years are numerous. To explore potential causes of the erosion further, publically available historical datasets of natural phenomena were re-examined relative to records of human activities to enable development of a conceptual model. Historical datasets of natural phenomena included sedimentary geology, post-glacial history, bathymetry, flood discharge records, sediment discharge/basin sediment yield, sediment grain size data, wind-waves, and tides. Human activity, stretching back to the late 1800's, included navigation dredging, aggregate resource dredging, river training, river diversion, flood protection dyking, land-use changes, and ongoing habitat management activities. From this review, a conceptual model of physical constraints on deltaic environments was developed. The various phenomena are discussed, the integration of those phenomena as processes affecting deltaic habitat explored, and potential management strategies identified to address the sedimentary consequences of the last 150 years of human influence on the salt marshes of Sturgeon Bank.

Bruno, M.F.; Molfetta M.G.; Mossa, M., Nutricato, R., Morea, A., and Chiaradia, M.T., 2016. Coastal observation through Cosmo-SkyMed high-resolution SAR images. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 795–799. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The study deals with the application and further improvement of an advanced Earth Observation system, named COSMO-Beach, developed for semi-automatic shoreline extraction and coastal morphology identification. The system exploits SAR Single-Look-Complex data acquired by the COSMO-SkyMed constellation, which is able to provide X-band images with a short revisiting time. The implemented procedures have been tested over a very popular beach in Apulia Region (Italy), affected by erosion problems induced by human activities. The outcomes of the COSMO-Beach system are presented and discussed.

Zăinescu, I.F.; Vespremeanu-Stroe, A. and Tătui, F., 2016. Comparative spit dynamics. The case of deltaic river mouth spits. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 800–804. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

This paper presents a comparison of evolution and dynamics of selected representative deltaic spits. Although recently receiving more attention, deltaic barrier spits still remain poorly understood in terms of long term evolution. Water, sediment and wave interactions at the river mouth are highly nonlinear such that hydrodynamic groin effects and sediment trapping mechanisms generate behaviours such as cyclic lobe progradation, as it is the case of some deltaic lobes, or conversely impose river mouth deflection when the wave influence becomes dominant. River mouth spits can be part of a prograding lobe (e.g. Sacalin and the paleo-spits of the Danube Delta lobes, Ba Lat spits) or can be a sign of lobe abandonment due to lobe switching, geoengineering or extreme reduction in sediment supply (e.g. La Banya, Ebro; Gracieuse, Rhone; Damietta, Nile). Human-induced reductions in river solid discharge have affected the majority of Mediterranean deltas and there is a wealth of other examples worldwide (e.g. Krishna & Godawari deltas). Dependent on the wave climate and especially the wave direction, cuspate features, migrating sand waves or flying spits form at the downdrift side of lobes. Comparison of dynamics shows that spits experience high temporal (inter-decadal), spatial (alongshore) and inter-landform variability. Dynamics is complex, often resulting from different interrelating effects which importance in control can change over time.

Haghshenas, S.A.; Razavi A., A.; Bakhtiari, A., Jedari Attari, M., and Risk, M.J., 2016. Decadal Evolution of Mond River Delta, the Persian Gulf. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 805–809. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

This paper studies the results of multi-disciplinary investigations on different features of evolution of the Mond River delta during the past five decades. Considering the high importance of Mond River and corresponding sediment discharge, physiography and watershed analysis of Mond River is investigated and sediment discharge from the river and its sand content are estimated in the first step. A numerical model has been utilized to investigate cases of flow and sediment transport behaviour in the coastal Mond area and annual rates of longshore sediment transport are estimated. The shoreline changes are investigated by analysing thirty four sets of aerial photos and satellite imagery taken between 1967 and 2014 to investigate decadal evolution of Mond River Delta during the past three decades. Eventually, numerical results are compared with field observations and comprehensive GIS based analysis of historic shoreline changes from aerial photos and satellite imagery.

Proisy, C., Degenne, P., Anthony, E.J., Berger, U., Blanchard, E., Fromard, F., Gardel, A., Olagoke, A., Santos, V.F., Walcker, R., & Lo Seen, D. (2016). A multiscale simulation approach for linking mangrove dynamics to coastal processes using remote sensing observations. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 810–814. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

We present a new landscape-modelling framework based on a domain-specific language called Ocelet that is used to question our understanding of how mangrove forests cope with fast-changing muddy seashores. For the demonstration, we selected the coast of French Guiana where mangrove physiognomy and extent continuously vary due to successive and recurrent erosion or accretion phases resulting from the alongshore migration of mud banks originating from the Amazon River. We modelled the French Guiana coastal system as a set of ecological and physical processes involving entities (e.g. ocean, mangrove shoreline, mud bank) that are in relation with each other. Interaction functions are written to specify how the entities change when they interact, according to the level of understanding and knowledge available. The scenario then describes what interaction functions are activated at each time step. We applied the approach to explain mangrove shoreline variations from 1986 to 2009 over 45 kilometres, and examined the contribution of alongshore and cross-shore wave energy and current velocities. The model was run with daily ERA-Interim/ECMWF waves and Mercator-Ocean currents as input data, whereas a time series of remote sensing images was used during the initialization and validation phases. We then discuss the flexibility of our approach to integrate existing models of mangrove forest dynamics.

Scudelari, A.C.; Neves, C.F.; Amaro, V.E., and Santos, O.F., 2016. Ponta Negra Beach, Natal, RN, Brazil: A roll and rock story. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 815–819. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The paper presents a case study of the erosion process at Ponta Negra Beach, important touristic destination located 15 km south of the downtown area of the city of Natal, capital of the State of Rio Grande do Norte, Northeast Region of Brazil. Unplanned urbanization was followed by an attempt in late 1990's to improve the use of the beach front area. A 4 km long walkway was built along the beach on top of the foredunes, water supply and sewage pipes were buried into the landfill, and a seawall was built to contain the landfill. A slow unattended erosion process was initiated, until in 2012 the seawall and the walkway were severely damaged by waves. Possible causes are discussed and the adopted remedial solutions are presented. The paper should be viewed as a critical reflection on the role of coastal zone management in order to promote sustainable development, based on a tripod: continuous environment monitoring, engineering, and society engagement.

Bezhenar R.; Jung K.T.; Maderich V., and Kim K.O., 2016. 3D numerical model of ecohydrodynamics for shallow waters. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 820–824. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

A new modeling system for the calculation of ecohydrodynamics in shallow water bodies is developed. It consists of three interacting components: hydrodynamics, sediment transport and ecodynamics. The system takes into account changes in the light absorption in the water due to presence of phytoplankton and suspended sediments as well as in the bottom friction due to presence of bottom vegetation. The bottom friction in turn affects the currents and turbulence that govern the transport and dispersion of nutrients which are necessary for the growth of phytoplankton and bottom vegetation. The turbulent mixing influences the resuspension of sediments that changes absorption of light in the water, affecting the bottom vegetation growth. The influence of model feedbacks on the biochemical characteristics of shallow Lake Markermeer (the Netherlands) was studied. Results of modeling show good quantitative agreement with measurements of temperature, nutrients, and dissolved oxygen. Good qualitative agreement of bottom concentration of periphyton with measured field of bottom plants was also obtained.

Brambilla, W.; van Rooijen, A.; Simeone, S.; Ibba, a.; DeMuro, S., 2016. Field observations, coastal video monitoring and numerical modeling of coastal processes at Poetto Beach, Italy. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 825–829. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

This work presents an analysis of hydrodynamics and morphological evolution during one year at Poetto Beach (South Sardinia, Gulf of Cagliari - Italy). The results, in the form of a numerical model, Delft3D, were validated using data obtained from a very reproducible low-cost video monitoring system. Subsequently, the model was used to study local hydrodynamics (Delft3D) during wave events. Poetto Beach is a wave-dominated urban beach system characterized by an inner shelf with Posidonia oceanica meadows. Bathymetric and topographic surveys were carried out every three months in order to understand the beach morphology. Sediment grain samples were taken alongshore/cross-shore in correspondence with the main morphologies. The Delft3D model was used to simulate waves and hydrodynamics. The numerical simulation (Delft3D) showed good agreement with the field data and video image analyses for the distribution and direction of the rip and longshore currents. This approach, which can be easily replicated on other urban beaches, could provide beach managers with useful information on how to prevent and minimize the effects of storms and flooding.

Cao, H.; Feng, W., and Chen, Y., 2016. Numerical modeling of wave transformation and runup reduction by the coastal vegetation of the South China Sea. Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 830–835. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The aim of this study is to examine wave transformation and runup using a numerical model of coastal conditions including vegetation. Based on the previous field study, the drag coefficient was estimated using an analytical model. After that, numerical modeling of wave dissipation in SWASH (Simulating WAves until SHore) was conducted and validated with the observed data. Furthermore, calibrated SWASH was used to inspect the wave runup under vegetated and non-vegetated cases. For the flexibility of numerical modeling, We also used the numerical model to assess various vegetation parameters and beach slopes to inform the characteristics of wave runup reduction. The results of the model indicate that SWASH with proper parameters accurately simulated wave dissipation. Wave runup and setup were significantly reduced by the coastal vegetation. The numerical results suggest that vegetation parameters and beach slope are important factors when analyzing the wave runup reduction rate.

Contardo, S. and Symonds, G., 2016. Generation of free infragravity waves by time-varying breakpoint with real wave conditions. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 836–840. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Breakpoint forcing is one of the major mechanisms for generation of free infragravity waves in the surf zone. Steep bed slopes, normalised to the incident sea-swell wavelength, are recognized to favor breakpoint forcing, but no study assesses the infragravity energy generated by breakpoint forcing in real conditions. We extend the breakpoint forcing model from bichromatic to spectral forcing and dimenzionalize the model output, and we estimate the sensitivity of the model to various spectral parameters on a plane beach. Steep beaches and short period waves (wind-sea) are favourable to breakpoint forcing, as expected. We also find that more energy is generated with real, multipeak, spectral forcing than with Jonswap spectra. The predicted infragravity response is consistent with observations on a barred beach suggesting breakpoint forcing is a major mechanism for the generation of free infragravity waves in the surf zone.

Escobar, A.; Negro, V.; Lopez-Gutierrez, J.S., and Esteban, M.D., 2016. Software for predicting hydrodynamic pressures on offshore pile foundations: The next step in ocean energy development. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 841–845. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The purpose of this study is to carry out a thorough, critical analysis of the Morison equation as far as calculating wave action on large diameter piles like those used nowadays in offshore wind farms is concerned. The aim is to observe whether models currently used to estimate wave forces on piles are valid for large diameter piles apart from observing what the main forces in play in scouring are. This equation enables wave produced forces on a cylinder supported on the sea bed to be calculated. The study includes observations on the calculation model's sensitivity as to a variation in the cylinder's diameter, on the one hand and, on the other, as to temperature and salinity variation. With this in mind, specific software has been developed to simulate equations in fluid mechanics applied to solve the wave–structure interaction problem in the separation, inertial and diffraction range. This software will enable an iterative calculation to be made for finding out the shape of the pressure wave caused when a wave passes over and will show the results for different pile diameters and water temperature.

Fan, J.; Zheng, J.; Tao, A.; Yu, H, and Wang, Y, 2016. Experimental study on upstream-advancing waves induced by currents. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 846–850. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Due to the widespread existence of large-scale continuous submarine sandbars the coasts and estuaries, the interaction between the ambient current and this kind of topography is important and complicated. It has been known that regular free surface waves can be generated and propagate in the upstream direction, when a steady current with specific depth and velocity flows past the fixed periodic wavy bottoms with large steepness. This particular free surface response, called the upstream-advancing wave, has drawn attention in the past few decades but still lacks detailed quantitative study identifying the critical conditions and the generation mechanism. A series of experiments in a large-sized flume were designed and performed to obtain the critical flow condition corresponding to the most intensive upstream-advancing waves. The wavy bottoms were formed by eight continuous fixed sinusoidal corrugated wood surfaces with wave steepness of 0.33. Wave height distributions were measured by adjusting the relative water depth (the ratio of the water depth to the bottom wavelength, 0.5–1.1, seven groups) and Froude number (0.15–0.35, 21 cases in each group). These distributions presented a unimodal pattern generally. It indicates that the critical relative water depth was 0.8 and the corresponding critical Froude number was 0.26. Once the waves were triggered, the wave periods concentrated on a small range between 1.2 s and 1.4 s. Wavelengths kept basically invariable along the propagating path.

Frau, L.; Marzeddu, A.; Dini, E; Gracia, V.; Gironella, X.; Erioli A.; Zomparelli, A., and Sánchez-Arcilla, A., 2016. Effects of ultra-porous 3D printed reefs on wave kinematics. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 851–855. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Present 3D printing technology allows the efficient design and construction of structures with complex shapes and high porosity satisfying biological and coastal protection demands. In this case, an array of ultra-porous tetrahedron-shaped 3D printed artificial reef (UPTSAR) is proposed to be used as a submerged breakwater for both environmental enhancement and wave protection. The aim of this study is to analyse the wave-structure interaction effects and the resulting velocity and wave height fields. For this, two-dimensional small scale tests (1:15) using irregular waves were carried out in a wave flume facility at BarcelonaTech. The influence of wave steepness, relative freeboard, relative water depth and the porosity on wave Kinematics have been analysed. The paper will describe in detail the results obtained for the different tests. These results are used to evaluate the functionality of the UPTSAR as coastal protection structures.

Gallegos, G.; Mariño-Tapia, I., and Valle-Levinson, A., 2016. Effects of gravity waves on turbulence and processes that contribute to mixing at a submarine groundwater discharge. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 856–860. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Submarine ground water discharges (SGD) around the coasts of the Yucatán Península are very common due to the karstic origin of the rocks, and the abundant rain. These discharges of brackish water into the coastal sea are strong enough to alter the thermohaline conditions, they can be preferential routes for salt intrusion, and also represent an important input of nutrients and pollutants. The mixing on these SGDs is a spontaneous and turbulent process, and its study is important for the understanding of dispersion of materials in regions influenced by these features. A set of measurements with two acoustic Doppler velocimeters (Nortek-Vector) were done in a very active SGD in the coast of Quintana Roo, Mexico. The first instrument was installed in the entrance of the cave and the other one ∼2m above, both sampling at 64 Hz. Consistent with previous studies, results show that sea level variability (waves and tides) dominates the flow and the turbulence levels. When the spring is inactive wave frequencies (short 0.1 Hz, and 0.03 Hz long waves) have a clear peak in η and w, but when the spring is active, turbulence (Kolmogorov law) permeates to short wave frequencies, and IG frequencies diminish in η, but bulge in w at lower frequencies (0.01 Hz). Numerical modelling with Open Foam suggests that the shift in IG frequency could be driven by the spring geometry (depth and cave size) rather than forced by the incident waves.

Héquette, A. and Cartier, A., 2016. Theoretical and observed breaking wave height on a barred macrotidal beach: Implications for the estimation of breaker index on beaches with large tidal range. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 861–866. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Although a large number of studies were dedicated to the observation and prediction of wave height at breaking, field investigations were essentially carried out in micro- to mesotidal environments. Here we report the results of a study conducted on a barred macrotidal beach of northern France during which video observations of wave breaking were carried out simultaneously with measurements of wave data using a series of hydrodynamic instruments deployed across the intertidal and the nearshore zones and an offshore wave buoy. Our results show that waves were breaking when the ratio of wave height to depth (H_b/h_b) was comprised between approximately 0.2 to 0.45, the lower value being slightly lower than what is commonly reported in the literature for macrotidal beaches. Comparison of measured and calculated wave height at breaking using a series of predictive equations revealed that the Rattanapitikon et al. (2003) formula gave the best results for our data set. Predicted breaker heights were nevertheless overestimated when using offshore wave measurements and better results were obtained with wave data recorded in 5 m water depth instead. This can be explained by the presence of offshore tidal sand banks that are responsible for significant wave refraction and wave energy dissipation. These results contribute to determine more precisely the range of appropriate breaker index values for barred macrotidal beaches and highlight that nearshore wave parameters should be used rather than offshore wave statistics for predicting breaking wave height and breaking depth where sand banks strongly alter wave characteristics.

Herkül, K.; Torn, K.; Suursaar, Ü.; Alari, V., and Peterson, A., 2016. Variability of benthic communities in relation to hydrodynamic conditions in the north-eastern Baltic Sea. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 867–871. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Wave forcing is an important hydrodynamic variable that influences spatial patterns and temporal dynamics of marine benthos. In this study, we used three principally different wave models – simplified wave model (SWM), spectral wave model SWAN (simulating waves nearshore), and locally calibrated point model (LCPM) – to assess the effects of wave forcing on the distribution and temporal dynamics of macrobenthos in the north-eastern Baltic Sea. Other important environmental variables like depth, salinity, turbidity etc., were also included into analyses of benthos distribution in order to quantify the relative importance of wave forcing. Following depth, SWM was the second most important environmental predictor of spatial distribution of benthos. The importance of SWAN was the lowest among environmental variables due to its low spatial resolution (1 nautical mile) compared to SWM (25 m). Considering the temporal dynamics of benthos, wave height significantly correlated with several benthic variables, but the direction and magnitude of effects were site-specific.

Iida, T.; Kure, S.; Udo, K.; Mano, A., and Tanaka, H., 2016. Prediction of the 2011 Tohoku Tsunami scouring near structures. In: Vila-Concejo, A., Bruce, E., Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 872–876. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The 2011 Tohoku Tsunami left innumerable sites with large scale scouring near failed coastal structures. This was a major cause of failure, and the reconstruction of these structures in a robust way requires determination of the mechanisms and prediction of the scouring. Two mechanisms are known for tsunami scouring: erosion by the bottom shear stress and liquefaction by the pore pressure, however, these mechanisms have not been compared yet in their effects. This study aims to quantify these mechanisms and predict the scouring by the 2011 Tohoku tsunami. For this approach, we developed a numerical model by the quasi-3D finite volume method by meshing horizontally in water and vertically in ground. After validating our model, we have applied it to the breach point of a coastal levee hit by the tsunami. We can conclude that erosion by the bottom shear stress has the major role, however, the fluidisation still has innegligible effect in 28% to the maximum erosion depth.

Inch, K.; Davidson, M.; Masselink, G., and Russell, P., 2016. Accurate estimation of wave reflection on a high energy, dissipative beach. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 877–881. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Noise induced error in estimated wave reflection coefficients using an array method is investigated using simulated time series of water surface elevation with known reflection coefficients and added uncorrelated noise. Reflection coefficients are found to be increasingly overestimated with the addition of noise and this positive bias is more significant for lower levels of true reflection. Coherence between the water surface elevation time series changes systematically with the bias and, along with the estimated reflection coefficients, is used to create a “look-up table” which serves as a function to correct for the observed bias. Bias and corresponding coherence levels are found to be independent of frequency allowing the same correction function to be applied across all frequencies and for frequency-averaged (e.g., across the infragravity band) reflection coefficients. Root-mean-square error associated with infragravity-averaged reflection coefficients, across all known reflection levels and noise-to-signal ratios up to 1, is reduced from 0.22 before the correction to 0.01 following the correction. Field data from a natural, dissipative beach is used to demonstrate the application of these results.

Nicolae Lerma, A; Pedreros, R. and Senechal N. 2016. Wave set-up and run-up variability on a complex barred beach during highly dissipative storm conditions. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 882–886. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

This study assessed the ability of the SWASH model to reproduce wave set-up and run-up on complex realistic 3D morphology during highly dissipative stormy conditions, based on the most energetic field data set reported in the bibliography (ECORS-Truc Vert'08 beach experiment). Several approaches (1D and 2D) and forcing methods (spectral and parametric) were applied. For the three days of high-energy conditions caused by the Johanna storm, wave set-up was accurately reproduced, with simulation performance in 1D and 2D at R² = 0.66, 0.81 respectively for all data considered; RMSE = 0.13 m, 0.08 m; bias = 0.06, −0.02. Run-up in the 1D configuration is significantly overestimated while in 2D, the reproduction of run-up using spectral forcing was very accurate with R² = 0.73; RMSE = 0.19; bias = 0.04, underlining the role of spectral frequency and directional spread to precisely reproduce the surf zone processes during a storm on a complex barred beach. The maximum estimated values for set-up, run-up and spatial variability of run-up are comparable with results from previous studies, even though significantly higher offshore wave conditions. These results support the hypothesis of a run-up saturation signature in dissipative contexts, mainly influenced by extreme offshore wave conditions.

Lin, T.-Y., 2016. Morphological response to the installation of detached breakwaters along the Cigu coast of Tainan, Taiwan. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 887–891. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Coastal landforms represent a state of equilibrium between natural forces and geological resistance. Any hard structures constructed can interfere with the natural processes of the coastal system and initiate a series of reactions. This study investigates the morphologic changes after the installation of a group of eleven detached breakwaters at the Cigu coast of Tainan, Taiwan. Multi-temporal satellite images and aerial photographs, along with field data of beach profiles, are used to analyze the sequential landform changes before and after the construction of these engineering structures. During the late 1990s, the shoreline of the Ding-tou-er Barrier had retreated after a couple of typhoon events, and the coastal hazard prevention agency decided to install detached breakwaters to prevent further erosion. Due to the installation of detached breakwaters, the nearby shores, especially the down-drift side of the coast, experienced rapid erosion either during or after the construction. Only the four detached breakwaters at the most northern end had salients that formed on their back sides. The others yielded no sand accumulation at all. Moreover, the sand accumulates on the back side of the detached breakwaters at such a fast rate that vegetation cannot grow or expand. Thus, the bare surface sand became the source of wind-blown sand that moved over the dike during the winter season. These wind-blown sand first buried the road and large numbers of spare tetrapods, then encroached the nearby aqua-cultural ponds.