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30 June 2007 Ground based remote sensing as a tool to measure spatial wave field variations in coastal approaches
K. Reichert, B. Lund
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Abstract

Reichert, K. and Lund, B., 2007. Ground based remote sensing as a tool to measure spatial wave field variations in coastal approaches. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 427 – 431. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208

Wave data are needed in coastal areas to help increase safety of ship navigation and improve coastal protection strategies. In recent years, remote sensing of surface waves and currents became a powerful tool, especially in areas with high spatial and temporal variability. The data discussed in this paper was measured with the wave monitoring system WaMoS II. This system is based on a standard marine X-band radar and can be operated from platforms, coastal buildings and from moving vessels. In contrast to wave buoys, this kind of data covers a rather large area with high temporal and spatial resolution. This paper presents data obtained from the island of Sylt, Germany and from the entrance to Port Phillip Bay, Melbourne, Australia. Both regions are characterised by a complex bottom topography that leads to a highly spatially variable wave field. For the Sylt data, examples of wave transformation such as refraction, shoaling and dissipation are described and quantified. The Melbourne data is described qualitatively showing the abilities of area covering wave measurements over such a complex topography.

K. Reichert and B. Lund "Ground based remote sensing as a tool to measure spatial wave field variations in coastal approaches," Journal of Coastal Research 50(sp1), 427-431, (30 June 2007). https://doi.org/10.2112/JCR-SI50-082.1
Published: 30 June 2007
KEYWORDS
Directional wave spectra
wave transformation
X-band radar
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